How much extra ground clearance does one get from removing the running boards and running 33" tires? (1 Viewer)

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I know this is a weirdly specific question but I'm curious whether anyone knows exactly how much ground clearance is gained from each of these two modifications. I was reading this article from Outside Online about cheap mods to a 1999 Land Cruiser where the author removed the running boards to give "the vehicle more ground clearance and a much better breakover (i.e., the maximum possible angle the vehicle can straddle between its front and rear wheels without bottoming out)" and swapped in 33" K02s which "lifted the vehicle an inch and essentially doubled its off-road capability".

Specifically, the 1999 LC comes stock with 9.8" of ground clearance. Does adding 33" tires really add 1"? Or is it 0.5" or 1.3"? and when removing the running boards, are those the lowest points from which ground clearance is measured on the Land Cruiser? I can see how removing those would greatly enhance breakover characteristics but does removing them increase ground clearance as well? By how much? Where is the lowest point on the LC from which ground clearance is being measured?

TL;DR: what is the ground clearance measurement of a 1999 Land Cruiser running 33" tires and no running boards? If stock is 9.8" do these mods get you up to 12"? Thanks in advance!
 
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These measurements with the mods listed in the OP may be helpful for comparison to the stock angles. Anyone willing to measure this? Shouldn't need much more than some string or a yard stick and a protractor.
 
Removing your running boards won't increase your "ground clearance" on paper but it will greatly reduce chance of damaging your truck when going over rocks, dips, snow banks, etc especially if off camber. Advertised ground clearance, in my opinion, is a useless number. Auto companies leverage it like it's the holy grail but like @BottleRocket pointed out, those are much more critical measurements (and the reason why vehicles like Samurais are amazing offroad even though the ground clearance isn't very high).

For us, I believe the "ground clearance" (lowest point on the car) is the bottom of the rear diff. You might think that's what you'd hit the most off road, but that's rarely the case. Even though the rear bumper is much higher off the ground, you're way more likely to drag that on stuff since sticks out so far.
 
Easy math on the tires: Take the diameter of the new/bigger tires, subtract the diameter of the current/smaller tires and divide by 2. That's the increase in ground clearance. The majority of that jump in performance is from the tread, not the increased ground clearance.

Running boards have their place - street trucks, minivans etc. They serve a useful function there. Offroad, they move into the category of "damage multipliers" - things that take the first hit (bumper guards, grille guards, tail light guards, etc.) quickly fail and fold/crush into more expensive sheet metal.

I would not just remove the running boards and hit the trail. Sliders (a.k.a. rock rails) are a must - the FIRST bolt-on modification to any truck going off-road. They don't detract from ground clearance and they protect the vulnerable rockers on the truck.
 
Me: alright honey, I'm going to drive over this dumpster to find better parking around back
Her: do you think we can make it? It's like 8 feet tall
Me: *scoffs* the internet says we have "yes" ground clearance so I'm pretty sure we're good

That’s why I always say the most important piece of off-road gear is a tape measure. I keep a list of all my exterior dimensions, including clearance heights and angles, taped to my A pillar and reference it whenever I come to a dumpster I need to climb. Or a speed bump or a parking garage or a snow bank or a narrow one way street. First thing I do is hop out with my trusty tape and see if I’ll fit (don’t forget to set your parking brake). Once it checks out then I know I can floor it with confidence! Honey knows better than to doubt my methods.
 
That’s why I always say the most important piece of off-road gear is a tape measure. I keep a list of all my exterior dimensions, including clearance heights and angles, taped to my A pillar and reference it whenever I come to a dumpster I need to climb. Or a speed bump or a parking garage or a snow bank or a narrow one way street. First thing I do is hop out with my trusty tape and see if I’ll fit (don’t forget to set your parking brake). Once it checks out then I know I can floor it with confidence! Honey knows better than to doubt my methods.
Might I suggest a laser range finder and some trig tables? Then you wouldn't even need to get out!
 
The issue with not having running boards is this- while it will give you a better break-over angle, they also would have taken the hit that likely would have gone into your rocker panel or sill. Damaging the rocker/sill items is not cheap or easy to fix.

The diameter of stock tires is about 31". So you get to count the lift from the axle down. With 33" tires, that is 1" (increase in the radius).

Also, as others have said, sliders rock. They are great to use as a step up as well when you toss on those 33" tires (and then decide that a lift sounds good too :worms: ). And to answer the next question, if you are going wheeling, just paint the sliders with Rustoleum. Powder coatings and Rhino lining are great on other areas, but not on something that gets used like sliders. I have Rhino on mine and it sucks in this application.
 
I've got to agree with @Manhattan. More than a statistical gain in clearance is the possibility that if the running boards take a hit then it could bend and fold up into the rocker panel and cause additional (and expensive) damage.

By removing the running boards you're gaining several inches before you get into that "crunch zone". Additionally, as mentioned above, sliders are a very worthwhile investment.
 
Why not leave those on as a sacrificial "warning system". Crunching those would probably save you body.
By the time you've crunched a little bit, you're probably already in a situation where you can't easily just turn around and pop into Slee before carrying on with your saturday trail run.

I think the factory boards will crumple like paper and there's a good chance by the time you stop and reverse you've already hit the rocker below the doors or the doors themselves.

Sliders are an awesome first mod on a 100.
 
I hear ya.

It was the first mod on my '04 (white knuckle).

However, I question this mod strictly on weight...they are heavy.

If u r hardcore, they are a requirement. Daily driver up to overland, I question them.

W/r hardcore: a) the rigs are heavy, b) these rigs have ifs. Neither lend themselves to hard core/rock crawling as born out by not seeing many/any used in these configurations.

'Nuff said :bang:
 
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I know this is a weirdly specific question but I'm curious whether anyone knows exactly how much ground clearance is gained from each of these two modifications. I was reading this article from Outside Online about cheap mods to a 1999 Land Cruiser where the author removed the running boards to give "the vehicle more ground clearance and a much better breakover (i.e., the maximum possible angle the vehicle can straddle between its front and rear wheels without bottoming out)" and swapped in 33" K02s which "lifted the vehicle an inch and essentially doubled its off-road capability".

Specifically, the 1999 LC comes stock with 9.8" of ground clearance. Does adding 33" tires really add 1"? Or is it 0.5" or 1.3"? and when removing the running boards, are those the lowest points from which ground clearance is measured on the Land Cruiser? I can see how removing those would greatly enhance breakover characteristics but does removing them increase ground clearance as well? By how much? Where is the lowest point on the LC from which ground clearance is being measured?

TL;DR: what is the ground clearance measurement of a 1999 Land Cruiser running 33" tires and no running boards? If stock is 9.8" do these mods get you up to 12"? Thanks in advance!

The OEM wheel size is 31" so a 33" tire will add only 1" inch in ground clearance. The larger tires do have a larger contact patch which typically results in better traction.
The factory steps don't take away much from your ground clearance or break over angle but they do tend to get destroyed if you find yourself going over rough stuff. But, I think most of the ppl remove them to make the 100 look less like a family vehicle!

The very first mod I did to my truck was to install @white-knuckleoffroad sliders and they have been nearly indestructible. I have banged them on trees and roots and landed the whole truck on large rocks and they have not even dented!
 
I hear ya.

It was the first mod on my '04 (white knuckle).

However, I question this mod strictly on weight...they are heavy.

If u r hardcore, they are a requirement. Daily driver up to overland, I question them.

If weight is a concern, you might reach out to Ben at Dissent. They are building sliders for the 200 in aluminum now. They might be willing to do sliders for the 100 series. Ben's aluminum sliders can take the hits too. I was surprised when I saw very little damage after he did Hell's Revenge last year at Cruise Moab.

Or did you mean the weight of going to a larger AT tire?
 
... I question this mod strictly on weight...they are heavy.

Literally .010% of the truck's weight... and at the lowest point. I wouldn't sweat it. Also, the sliders add some rigidity to the frame and increase side impact protection. So, I see your weight gain and raise with occupant safety ;)
 
Well, it's not the trucks weight of concern, it's the payload = just shy of 10% (that's a guesstimate).

Accessories/stuff adds up quick.

I wish I was smart enough to ask these questions before I ventured down this road.
 
We're not talking 100lbs per side. Plus, removing the steps just shaved some weight, then remove that unused 3rd row and it's a wash ;)

Seriously though... I get your point - adding several hundred pounds of stuff - armor, drawers, bumpers, tent, fridge - does not help on the trail or anywhere else. But sliders are somewhat unique here. They are so functional (even replicating the running boards' function) that they are simply mandatory for any off-road wagon/SUV.
 
If you don't need sliders, you are just overlanding. That is fun, but I also enjoy wheeling! That hobby really needs sliders. :hillbilly:

I don't believe that I have any photos, but I did Golden Spike in Moab last year in 3wd after a small CV joint failure. That needed the bumpers, sliders and skids that had been done to the truck, and was it ever fun. Last year at Cruiser Moab, Golden Spike was the second time in my life that I specifically asked, "Wait, you weren't joking, and we ARE going over that? Oh wow, okay.". The first time I asked the aforementioned question was 5 days earlier when we went down Rose Garden Hill. There was a 4 foot drop we went off on that hill. Fun times.
 
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[B]Manhattan[/B]: Roger that. Did exactly the same w/r 3rd row seats. Also plan on removing the 60 split 2nd row seat. Also, I read a great article with following jist: What will stop you in your tracks.....damaged rocker panels....or oilpan/front end damage. The argument being put the armor (weight) where it is needed to keep you moving.

BTW: my 60 suffered a crunched rocker panel due to wheel hop @ mengel pass death valley. needless to say that has been haunting me ever since (that is the upcoming $ to repair):bang:


[B]gungriffin[/B]: or malling it. BTW i always do the easiest bypass i can after having seen a bikini topped 40 lc do a reverse endo ignoring a short easy bypass at '04 cruise moab.....with a passenger unrestrained in the back. Luckily no injuries.

Keep on keeping on!
 

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