How long can a 2000 LX470 be parked before the battery gets too weak to start? (1 Viewer)

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Based on this assessment, what battery brand is recommended for the LX/LC 100 and which ones to not get. In other words, what battery brands have AGM batteries that are to be avoided?
Not a battery guru myself, but here’s another battery related discussion.


I’m still on my Costco interstate, when the old battery fails and I get it replaced, that resets the clock on warranty.

Parking at the costco lot and putting on a new battery doesn’t sound too bad for me with the $1 recycling fee. Just got to charge the AGMs when the crank starts sounding weak and give it an annual maintenance charge or 2 since it doesn’t charge well on the alternator.
 
I read through pages 3 on in the thread you provided and that had no mention of AGM not being compatible with the 100 alternator.

Is this a hypothesis or is this an agreed upon theory? I am genuinely curious and asking with all sincerity.
 
I read through pages 3 on in the thread you provided and that had no mention of AGM not being compatible with the 100 alternator.

Is this a hypothesis or is this an agreed upon theory? I am genuinely curious and asking with all sincerity.
I missed the threads with notable mentions on AGM.



Before I started charging my Interstate AGM (new Denso Starter, did big 3 + new 100A Toyota Denso Alt), I was getting a dead battery annually.

I’ve even gotten new battery replacement that had pretty low charges out of factory. 100 mile all highway drives couldn’t bring deeply discharged AGMs to run optimally and I’m back to getting a warranty replacement within weeks. Thought I had deep electrical issues on my 100K garaged mall cruiser but no.

It isn’t incompatible, just doesn’t charge optimally on the LC100 stock charging system. On a DD hundy, expect a gradual drain from 100% even with a healthy alternator. It won't be able to top off the battery to 100% at any time.
 
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I missed the threads with notable mentions on AGM.



Before I started charging my Interstate AGM (new Denso Starter, did big 3 + new 100A Toyota Denso Alt) while I was getting a dead battery annually.

I’ve even gotten new battery replacement that had pretty low charges out of factory. 100 mile all highway drives couldn’t bring deeply discharged AGMs to run optimally and I’m back to getting a warranty replacement. Thought I had deep electrical issues on my 100K garaged mall cruiser.

It isn’t incompatible, just doesn’t charge optimally on the LC100 stock charging system.

Thanks for this info.
Based on your knowledge, what battery is compatible with factory alternator?
 
Thanks for this info.
Based on your knowledge, what battery is compatible with factory alternator?
If you’d prefer not to hook up an AGM charger a couple of times each year, going dead after truck’s sitting in garage for days especially when your alternator’s weak, look for a lead acid battery which is what the LC 100 charging profile was originally designed for.

I don’t have a recommendation for a specific battery. My 2000 LX has only seen the stock Panasonic lead acid battery and Costco interstate by far. And my battery needs are pretty rudimentary on a stock Mall Cruiser unlike a built rig.
 
If you’d prefer not to hook up an AGM charger a couple of times each year, going dead after truck’s sitting in garage for days especially when your alternator’s weak, look for a lead acid battery which is what the LC 100 charging profile was originally designed for.

I don’t have a recommendation for a specific battery. My 2000 LX has only seen the stock Panasonic lead acid battery and Costco interstate by far. And my battery needs are pretty rudimentary on a stock Mall Cruiser unlike a built rig.
I just went on Interstate website and I put down my LX in the find my battery section. It gave me a single choice of MTP-27F which is listed as a non-AGM battery.

Looks like this Interstate MTP-27F will be a good fit for our vehicles.
 
I just went on Interstate website and I put down my LX in the find my battery section. It gave me a single choice of MTP-27F which is listed as a non-AGM battery.

Looks like this Interstate MTP-27F will be a good fit for our vehicles.

So, I’m experiencing this constant discharge, dead battery after a few days issue. I’ve replaced three batterys in the past six months, the last two in the past 3-4 weeks. I now have an AGM premium battery from Auto Zone. I haven’t seen or found anything out of place with fuses and such, except that the drivers side p0ower window switch unit’s lights would remian on even after I closed the door. I replaced the switch unit, lights off, LX ran fine for four weeks and then sat for four days, and now a dead battery, again.

What I’m hearing from this thread is that AGM batterys are not the ideal battery for these 100’s, correct? Lead acid only? If this is the case, is this specific to just LC/LX’s across the board, or just for certain year models? I’ve owned fj40, fj60/62, 80, this 100, and a 200. This is the only one, only time, I’ve ever experienced this issue…dead battery after a few days…parasitic draw…no complete charging on AGM’s, etc. Why is this? Does anyone know for sure?

So the recommendation is to go back to “lead acid?"
 
Is this a hypothesis or is this an agreed upon theory? I am genuinely curious and asking with all sincerity.

What I’m hearing from this thread is that AGM batterys are not the ideal battery for these 100’s, correct? Lead acid only? If this is the case, is this specific to just LC/LX’s across the board, or just for certain year models? I’ve owned fj40, fj60/62, 80, this 100, and a 200. This is the only one, only time, I’ve ever experienced this issue…dead battery after a few days…parasitic draw…no complete charging on AGM’s, etc. Why is this? Does anyone know for sure?

It sounds like you have a power drain/draw on your vehicle, that AGM vs flooded lead acid won’t fix.


There is some truth, but in my opinion it’s somewhat overblown.

As a general rule, AGM batteries “like” or require a slightly higher charge voltage.

Conventional batteries generally need 13.8-14.4v.

AGM batteries generally need 14.6-14.8v.

Voltage output is controlled by the voltage regulator in the alternator.

I’ve had little to no issues with AGM batteries in the 100 series, but do throw them on an AGM battery charger once a quarter or so.

Another work around is something like a
HKB voltage booster

 
Subscribed to this. I have similar problem where battery drains in 3-4 days. Installed a battery kill switch which is just a band-aid rather than a problem fix.
 
It sounds like you have a power drain/draw on your vehicle, that AGM vs flooded lead acid won’t fix.


There is some truth, but in my opinion it’s somewhat overblown.

As a general rule, AGM batteries “like” or require a slightly higher charge voltage.

Conventional batteries generally need 13.8-14.4v.

AGM batteries generally need 14.6-14.8v.

Voltage output is controlled by the voltage regulator in the alternator.

I’ve had little to no issues with AGM batteries in the 100 series, but do throw them on an AGM battery charger once a quarter or so.

Another work around is something like a
HKB voltage booster


The “work around” looks interesting, albeit I’m not anywhere close to understanding exactly how it boosts alternator output by using a fuable link. This, I guess, works well for AMG batts, good. I’ll deffinately consider ordering one. Or, I may take the battery back and just get a lead acid one, to be on the “OEM” side of trying to find the issue…IDK yet.

Thank you!
 
The “work around” looks interesting, albeit I’m not anywhere close to understanding exactly how it boosts alternator output by using a fuable link. This, I guess, works well for AMG batts, good. I’ll deffinately consider ordering one. Or, I may take the battery back and just get a lead acid one, to be on the “OEM” side of trying to find the issue…IDK yet.

Thank you!

My understanding is, that it’s putting a resistor inline on the ALT-S line, which causes the voltage regulator to sense that it is putting out slightly less voltage than it really is, which causes the voltage regulator to increase the voltage slightly.
 
Batteries do some weird stuff.Went to diner Friday night,got in my LX Saturday morning to a click,click,click.Jumped it off,let it run a few and started it a few times,no problem.Took it to Advance,had the battery and charging system tested,everything tested good.I said wait a minute,turned the key on,headlights,heater fan on for about two minutes,hit the start and…click,click,click.Only when the old battery was removed did we see the date placing it at five years old.
 
One more consideration - if you have a leaky vane pump or if the PS hard lines are leaking PS fluid in areas like the union bolt and banjo, you’d have a weakened alternator most probably that also adds to frequent going dead scenarios. Its a consideration that adds to the flooded vs. AGM topic.

If you’ve serviced the alternator by removing the vane pump or replaced the vane pump, check if the banjo’s torqued to spec (don’t remember the number). It leaks when under torqued.
 

A good writeup, and I'd agree for a perfectly stock vehicle.

If you're powering aftermarket accessories from the battery, and are likely to "run it flat", an AGM battery seems to recover (not kill the battery) better than a flooded lead acid battery.

I've gotten 5+ years of use out of the old Die Hard Platinums, and about the same from Batteries Plus X2 AGMs (without a voltage booster), just topping them up with a charger every 3 months or so.

Just for reference, in answer to the OP's question... I've been driving my 99 LX for the last 3-4 weeks. My 06 LX has sat during this time, with headlights set to "auto", doors locked, aftermarket alarm, and a GROM Vline. It has a relatively new AGM battery, that was low on charge, but it unlocked from the "fob", and started up just fine (it's sitting on the charger now).
 
Certainly a good point. I think the ideal set-up for the avg 100 user is stock SLA battery, DC-DC charger and LiFEP04 battery for accessories in the trunk.

Side note: Even with my BMW, that came stock with an AGM battery. You program the charging algorithm, it factors in the battery temperature and age too. I never got over 2 years out of the AGM batteries. And then I put in the standard SLA battery, changed the charging algorithm and the battery lasted over 5 years. Hmm...
 
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Certainly a good point. I think the ideal set-up for the avg 100 user is stock SLA battery, DC-DC charger and LiFEP04 battery for accessories in the trunk.

Side note: Even with my BMW, that came stock with an AGM battery. You program the charging algorithm, it factors in the battery temperature and age too. I never got over 2 years out of the AGM batteries. And then I put in the standard SLA battery, changed the charging algorithm and the battery lasted over 5 years. Hmm...

The LiFEPO4 battery would help with a 'fridge, charging electronics, or camp lighting, but not so much with a winch, then again my two with winches, are currently the ones without an AGM battery 🤪 I think my favorite thing about my old 80 series dual battery system, was the ability to "jump start" myself from an in cab switch, but the modern "jump pack" seems to have addressed that problem.


The coronapocalypse was hard on car batteries at my house, so I have my own personal "bakeoff" going on. Replaced the battery in one 100 series with a 930CCA 27F X2 Power AGM (and added a voltage booster), and put Interstate 600CCA 24F flooded lead acid batteries in the other two in the same week. Just finding a 24F or 27F battery was difficult at the time. Maybe I'll change my opinion in 3-5 years :)
 
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I now have a Autozone Duralast Platinum 27F-EFB, (27F, 81 cold crank, 1010 cranking amps, 140 reserve) battery. Charging system checked by Autozone, which I’m assuming this is a decent check, and showing 12.6 volts at install, which means it’s not fully charged. Will drive around some today and see where I’m at with it, and then begin to investigate the potential areas in question. Not the way I want to have to enjoy my ride.

I suppose it’s time to buy a good battery booster/charger, but which one? I bought a NOCO 2000 amp, but it wouldn’t even turn this thing over! Maybe I was doing something wrong, IDK. Returned it. I use to have a TruckPac 5000, which always worked, but after 10 years it finally stopped recharging.
Any suggestions on a good unit to carry around, in case my strange acting LX decides to leave me stranded, again? Thanks!
 
If I had to park by the street for 2 months (so trickle charger from garage outlet wouldn't work), is my only option to disconnect the negative terminal?
 

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