How do these compression and leak down numbers sound?

[LCnAZ]

Did a leak down and compression test yesterday. Seems these are pretty good numbers for a 188.8K 3FE.

Cylinders 1 to 6
Compression= 150, 140, 145, 150, 140, 150
CLT= 9%, 7%, 5%, 2%, 11%, 4%

May have to keep an eye on #5, but overall not bad. What say you?

Also got those valves adjusted. Some were a quarter turn tight, but no burning. Quite the educational process to watch it being done by a master.

Found something worth checking for everyone: The last section of the air handler (that goes into the throttle body) was split badly on the bottom where it is easy to overlook...resulting in a super lean mixture. Not a bad thing to check for.

Open interstate highway (65-70 mph) fuel economy following work: 15 mpg.

 

[D'Animal]

numbers look good.

 

[cruiser88]

Be happy

 

[Mace]

awesome #'s..


My old 2F is hittin 85 to 90 across the board

 

[PurpleFJ62]

did you compare all the plugs? Cyl 5 seems to be the only place with abnormal values. Do you burn any oil?

I would be very happy with those numbers, engine must be well cared for.

 

[cruiser88]

awesome #'s..


My old 2F is hittin 85 to 90 across the board

dam

 

[gray]

Did a leak down and compression test yesterday. Seems these are pretty good numbers for a 188.8K 3FE.

Cylinders 1 to 6
Compression= 150, 140, 145, 150, 140, 150
CLT= 9%, 7%, 5%, 2%, 11%, 4%

May have to keep an eye on #5, but overall not bad. What say you?

Also got those valves adjusted. Some were a quarter turn tight, but no burning. Quite the educational process to watch it being done by a master.

Found something worth checking for everyone: The last section of the air handler (that goes into the throttle body) was split badly on the bottom where it is easy to overlook...resulting in a super lean mixture. Not a bad thing to check for.

Open interstate highway (65-70 mph) fuel economy following work: 15 mpg.

Numbers look good; did you clean the engine (flush and drain) at
any time recently?? A stuck ring can rarely lead to loss of pressure;
a good flush will sometimes free it up if the engine was full of sludge.
Either way, your compression numbers are excellent.

BTW; I use synthetic everything on my FJ62 (oil, gears boxes,etc) it has 280K and runs smooth as silk, with 17mpg.

 

[cruiser88]

Numbers look good; did you clean the engine (flush and drain) at
any time recently?? A stuck ring can rarely lead to loss of pressure;
a good flush will sometimes free it up if the engine was full of sludge.
Either way, your compression numbers are excellent.

BTW; I use synthetic everything on my FJ62 (oil, gears boxes,etc) it has 280K and runs smooth as silk, with 17mpg.

17 mpg dam.

 

[LCnAZ]

Numbers look good; did you clean the engine (flush and drain) at
any time recently?? A stuck ring can rarely lead to loss of pressure;
a good flush will sometimes free it up if the engine was full of sludge.

The engine was flushed, drained, "de-carbed", and BG44K added in June (about 2K miles ago). Major tune-up 1K ago. The opinion is that that cylinder has a bit more carbon, but does not burn oil (yet). Bill (Lee) added a bit of his special elixer into the cylinder to try to help loosen up the ring a bit. He told me it is a blend of light oils.

Plugs looked the same, but they are quite new. No oil.

BTW; I use synthetic everything on my FJ62 (oil, gears boxes,etc) it has 280K and runs smooth as silk, with 17mpg.

I used to get close to 16+ to 17mpg w/o AC when younger (both of us ). Also, zero ping, but Bill recommends premium and do the BG44K twice a year. He also said Tectron is an okay alternative if BG is tough to find. I have not used synthetic, but changed religiously about every 3K. Currently running Valvoline Maxlife, but will change to Synthetic at next change...and will extend change intervals.

Bill and his tech, Cameron, did a comprehensive diagnosis of the entire vehicle. I have to call Dan and get some hoses (both PCV and a couple others), etc. But a lot of odds and ends need to be done including motor mounts, exhaust from muffler aft including mounts, new brake hoses (will get steel 2" extensions from MOF...you recommend?), need to flush brake system, and de-gunk the front brake cooling cowl. Bill even caught that the rear shock bolt washers were bent until touching the frame mount point. Best 4.5 hours I ever spent at a garage. Highly recommended.

BTW, I thought I had a leaking main seal (dealer and others word). I discovered that the oil pan bolts were a half turn loose! It hasn't leaked a drop since. Whew! I am going to de-gunk and presure wash that area well today. That will let me tell if a leak is coming from the oil pan or the main seal. Indications so far would suggest it was just the loose bolts.

Thanks for the words, fellas.

 

[gray]

The engine was flushed, drained, "de-carbed", and BG44K added in June (about 2K miles ago). Major tune-up 1K ago. The opinion is that that cylinder has a bit more carbon, but does not burn oil (yet). Bill (Lee) added a bit of his special elixer into the cylinder to try to help loosen up the ring a bit. He told me it is a blend of light oils.

Plugs looked the same, but they are quite new. No oil.


I used to get close to 16+ to 17mpg w/o AC when younger (both of us ). Also, zero ping, but Bill recommends premium and do the BG44K twice a year. He also said Tectron is an okay alternative if BG is tough to find. I have not used synthetic, but changed religiously about every 3K. Currently running Valvoline Maxlife, but will change to Synthetic at next change...and will extend change intervals.

Bill and his tech, Cameron, did a comprehensive diagnosis of the entire vehicle. I have to call Dan and get some hoses (both PCV and a couple others), etc. But a lot of odds and ends need to be done including motor mounts, exhaust from muffler aft including mounts, new brake hoses (will get steel 2" extensions from MOF...you recommend?), need to flush brake system, and de-gunk the front brake cooling cowl. Bill even caught that the rear shock bolt washers were bent until touching the frame mount point. Best 4.5 hours I ever spent at a garage. Highly recommended.

BTW, I thought I had a leaking main seal (dealer and others word). I discovered that the oil pan bolts were a half turn loose! It hasn't leaked a drop since. Whew! I am going to de-gunk and presure wash that area well today. That will let me tell if a leak is coming from the oil pan or the main seal. Indications so far would suggest it was just the loose bolts.

Thanks for the words, fellas.

All the FJ-62's leak from the oil pan, front and rear;
and you are correct; the dealers try to tell you that it is your
engine seals; rarely is. Just have to do a good job when replacing
the oil pan gasket.

Valvoline makes a synthetic MaxLife also if you prefer that brand.

I have always used Mobil 1, but recently started using their High Mileage type of Mobil 1.

Regarding the brakes; I use a suction gun to suck out the old
brake fluid first, then add new (Valvoline synthetic DOT 4)
and flush at least a quart through the system using a
pressure bottle.

RISLONE is a light lubricating oil also; I have used that on very old engines, before detergent oils were the norm;
you would not beleive the results I got out of using that stuff back then, as ALL those old engines were sludged up.
Run it for a couple hundred miles, then add an engine flush for 5 minutes; then regular oil for a short period(days) with more RISLONE if the engine it totally sludged, drain again and change filter again, then add the synthetic once the engine is cleaned.
Never had to take the pans off to clean them.

good luck

g

 

[LCnAZ]

Excellent stuff Mr. G. Thank you for those nuggets.

 

[Moby]

9% and 11% leakdown? Are you getting oil through your PCV? I had <5% in cylinders 1-4 and 5 and #5 was at 10% (compression on all was very good). The blowby from #5 pushed enough oil through the PCV to coat the entire inside of my intake manifolds all the way to the intake valve. Literally dripping oil in the intake. Ran fine, no other problems. Not that this is in any way fatal. I installed an inline air/oil separater and drove it another 10,000 before I built a hot rodded version that pulls like crazy

 

[LCnAZ]

Do you prefer OEM front brake components etc? (I don't tow.) If not, what do you prefer? Know of any significant difference in the MAF vs SOR stainless brake lines?

 

[LCnAZ]

The blowby from #5 pushed enough oil through the PCV to coat the entire inside of my intake manifolds all the way to the intake valve.

I'm told that oil in the intake manifold is normal; it get recycled back into the engine. As long as there is no significant depletion of oil, I hear it isn't a concern. I have also heard that a separator can be used. Bill in familiar with them on aircraft engines, and says he's heard of guys using them on Cruisers. At this stage, I still use no oil (knock on wood).

 

[CruisinFJ60]

i use just a tiny bit of oil due to it goin into the intake.

what kind of seperators are yall using? Im kinda interested in this. Rig runs great but a lil less smokey is always a good thing.

 

[LCnAZ]

what kind of seperators are yall using? Im kinda interested in this.

Yeah, I'd like to hear more about that, too.

 

[mrsvle]

LCnAz,

Did you drive to New Mexico to have Bill work on your rig or is Bill back in Tucson now? I've known him for over ten years, he's a great LC mechanic as you have discovered.

Great news your rig is in good condition.

Matt

 

[D'Animal]

The engine was flushed, drained, "de-carbed", and BG44K added in June (about 2K miles ago). Bill recommends premium and do the BG44K twice a year.

What is BG44K?