How do I install the starter relay? I'm tired of the intermittent start! (1 Viewer)

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I told you previously ...- the postbefore you stated you were scared.... put your starter wire back together - large 12 ga black w/ white- in ign harness
you will cut away the remote start/alarm interrupt wires- prob Violet from the Viper - and reconnect blk/wh Toyota wire- you may have to add a 12 ga jumper w/ butt connectors to do so...
Like I said - if you are scared - have your local alarm guy do it- Nothing to be worried about - I get calls from really good mechanics that are not comfortable w/ 12v wiring- you will find about 100 wires under that dash - to you it might look like ALOT more
 
I told you previously ...- the postbefore you stated you were scared.... put your starter wire back together - large 12 ga black w/ white- in ign harness
you will cut away the remote start/alarm interrupt wires- prob Violet from the Viper - and reconnect blk/wh Toyota wire- you may have to add a 12 ga jumper w/ butt connectors to do so...
Like I said - if you are scared - have your local alarm guy do it- Nothing to be worried about - I get calls from really good mechanics that are not comfortable w/ 12v wiring- you will find about 100 wires under that dash - to you it might look like ALOT more

Ok, I'm trying now.
 
I disconnected the purple wire from the black wire with white stripe. it was connected to the black/white stripe wire with a clamp on the black/white wire and the purple wire was connected to the clamp. I disconnected the clamp with the purple away from the black wire with white stripe. now when I turn the ignition, it just turns over but doesn't start. There has to be something else, right?
 
. My starter seems to have spliced wires coming from it. Is it just as simple as unconnecting all those wires and re-connecting to oem. How can I tell what is oem?[/QUOTE]


explain this or post a picture if the black white is not physically separated under the dash there is no starter interrupt at that spotrarely is it done outside but need to know about these starter splices you mention- follow THOSE wires and post
 
. My starter seems to have spliced wires coming from it. Is it just as simple as unconnecting all those wires and re-connecting to oem. How can I tell what is oem?


explain this or post a picture if the black white is not physically separated under the dash there is no starter interrupt at that spotrarely is it done outside but need to know about these starter splices you mention- follow THOSE wires and post[/QUOTE]

Here is the pic. The blue clamps are from the alarm connecting to the ignition harness wires. I disconnected the violet (purple) wire and then the truck just turns over but will not start. Do I need to disconnect all the wires that are clamped to the ignition harness wires?
2012-01-27_18-45-46_459.jpg
 
no = make sure that big molex plug is fully seated in ign harness- if you disturbed it you may have lost ign 1 continuity which is why it won't run. Test all wires w/ test light on truck side not key side of harness,,
 
bly/yl black /red both must have +12v w/ key to ON .
 
was i correct in only removing the violet wire that was clamped? I just purchased a voltmeter. How do I actually check the voltage? do I just touch the wire with the voltmeter cables?
 
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I have seen those t-tap connectors sever wires and cause intermittant continuity None of those RS wires matter unless you want it to remote start= in that pic the violet wire looks hooked up still anyway.
 
yeah I disconnected the violet wire and it didn't start. I hooked it back up trying to get it to start again. so, should i disconnect all the wires that are t-tapped into the ignition switch harness? what is RS?
 
I just disconnected the purple wire and she has been starting right up. I found out that it wasn't starting after I disconnected the purple wire at first because I blew a fuse in the fusible link wire. I replaced the fuse and she started right up. I blew the fuse while I was under the dash trying to get to the ignition harness. I let some wires touch and this fuse blew. It nothing to do with why it wasn't starting initially. So, I don't need to disconnect any other wires? Only the violet (purple) wire? I really appreciate the help you have given me.
 
Well... IT'S BACK! The intermittent start went away for like a month. Now, it is back! What gives? I am so tired of this I am about ready to get rid of the truck! I changed the NSS, cleaned the wires, checked voltage, disconnected remote start alarm, I am on my third starter, etc.

What is the fix for this problem? It is killing me!
 
does the starter click when you crank? or is it silent?

you should be able to hear it click if the starter is faulty.

if you hear no click, you have a problem with the signal going to the starter.

what exactly is happening?


that picture of your ignition harness makes me sick. If I saw that on my car after having alarm work done, I'd go back and give em hell.

Number 1 cause of electrical problems on Toyota cars is aftermarket accessories (like alarms!)

Number 2 cause, IME, is rodents eating stuff under the hood.
 
It's possibly still the alarm. Read this thread *many* times.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...led-diy-remote-start-alarm-keyless-entry.html

Then you'll get an idea about how everything is connected.

Or just go to a car alarm shop and have them remove the alarm. As mentioned above, those T-taps could sever the wire that they're tapping into and not provide continuity.

As far as alarm installs, that's just how it's done. Although I wouldn't be happy about that bundle of red wires connected to that sole 12v+ line.

I'm surprised the vehicle started with the purple wire disconnected. The purple and green wires connect to the same wire and form a switch between the two. That's part of the starter interrupt circuit of the alarm.
 
Mine has had the same issue for the past 18 months and it only gets worse. I was told by local club members it was a relay so I tracked down the relay and replaced it (I would be surprised if yours does not have a relay). The relay replacement lasted for ~250 starts then it started failing intermittently again. Each time this happened I would have to use the remote start function and it would work.

When I bought the truck I had a pile of receipts in the glove box and one was from the shop that installed the alarm system (AutoPage). I dug into the dash these past few nights and it looked like a 15 year old kid wired this thing up. The more I dug into it the more I found.

I downloaded the schematic and there were a lot of features not used on the alarm and were not connected but all these wires were still stuffed under the dash. I removed all wires not used up to the connector going to the unit. I only have wires for the alarm and remote door locks completely removing the remote start feature.

The ignition wires they tapped into has me concerned but they were not cut (except one) just had the insulation tampered with. I taped them all up and reconnected the main ignition wire that was used for the remote start and it is working. I started it 15 times in the drive way to make sure it would start repeatedly (it never started that many times in a row without failing before) and drove it around the neighborhood.

I am driving it to work tomorrow to test it out, I will see then what happens.
 
Well... IT'S BACK! The intermittent start went away for like a month. Now, it is back! What gives? I am so tired of this I am about ready to get rid of the truck! I changed the NSS, cleaned the wires, checked voltage, disconnected remote start alarm, I am on my third starter, etc.

What is the fix for this problem? It is killing me!

Sounds like a problem in the alarm wiring - an intermittent short, possibly because of one of the wire clamps. I do not use them for this reason. They are a short cut to doing it right, not worth the time saved. IMHO.
 
Sometimes there is a click, sometimes there is no click, sometimes there is even half a crank.... ??? So, you all suggest I just get the alarm taken completely out?
 

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