How do i install AC drier?

[rc51kid]

How do i install AC drier? Sounds simple right? Well it probably is but leave it to me to over think things. My AC works great when i add about 2.5 cans of refrigerant, for about 3 months. So my plan is to find the leak I have a A/C manifold, bought a vacuum for the system and some dye leak detector. Also figure i will replace the drier since it probably has been contaminated. So i have a Denso from Rock Auto. One of my only non EOM parts. We will see how it goes. The instructions say to add 20cc of AC oil to it before i install. Does anyone do that? Should i vacuum the system firsts or "drain" old oil first?

I guess my plan should be to vacuum the system with old drier in place and see how bad it leaks. Then maybe install the new drier with oil, add leak detector dye and then charge it. But then when i find the leak i open it up again to repair the leak. Should i just vacuum, add dye, charge, find leak, repair then install new drier?

That probably makes sense. But whenever i get new parts the temptation is to bolt them up right away.

 

[excessive]

You need to find the leak first. Inject the UV dye and run the system and then use a leak detector to find your leak. It could be a fitting or it could be somewhere in the evaporator. In my experience On the FJZ80 i would say most leaks occur in or around the evaporator core or expansion valve . Once you found and repaired your leak that's when you replace your dryer. Yes you do need to add oil anytime you replace a component in the system this service manual specifies how much oil to replace along with that component . Once everything has been replaced then you pull a vacuum on the system and check for additional leaks then recharge

 

[Landseer]

The PAG oil (for a R134a system) flows through the system and you cant really drain it, each component will be coated internally with oil so if you replace a component you need to be sure to add roughly that amount of oil back into the system (amounts are listed in FSM).

Loosing the full charge after 3 months is a pretty big leak, my bet is the connections on the firewall are leaking. Have you pulled the evaporator to clean it? If not I would suggest that you do so and change the expansion valve while you're in there. Theres a nice write up on how to do it, its pretty easy, cheap, and takes maybe 2 hours. If you go that route then add oil, switch in the new dryer, vacuum and recharge. If it still leaks then you'll have to get another dryer but they're pretty cheap (Denso is OE for all the AC stuff, buy on Rockauto and save a bunch over the Dealership).

 

[Tools R Us]

The most common leak that I have seen is the manifold o-ring where the hoses attach to the compressor.

 

[SUMMIT CRUISERS Jr]

I just dealt with a leak on mine from the line to the condenser. Previously I had the leak at the firewall, but after fixing that another spot started leaking. I was worried the condenser had taken a hit from a rock on the road and it would need to be replaced, but thankfully that wasn't the case.

First I pulled out the old compressor and blew all of the old oil out of the system. In the direction from drier to the compressor. It helps if you have someone who can cover the end of the line with their thumb and let the pressure build up to force the stuff out. Once that was done, I put the new compressor and drier in, pulled a vacuum and watched the pressure drop.

To look for leaks, I blew air through the lines with the AC compressor hooked up and sprayed soapy water on all the fittings while looking for bubbles. I went ahead and replaced all the orings in the system while I had the stuff out for piece of mind. Once it was determined that the system was leak free, we added the oil back into the compressor and charged it.

I have had cold AC since then.

 

[Hornd]

Went through and did mine a few yrs ago.
Replaced the Expansion Valve, Condenser (had hole), and Receiver/Dryer.

You can get to Receiver/Dry by removing the turn signal. DO NOT Cross thread or over tighten.

O-rings are to be coated in Mineral Oil for Assembly.

I put Dye PAG oil in each component for assembly; did not measure.

Then I took to shop they pulled vacuum, confirmed vacuum held for a hour, then filled with correct amount of R134A. Was about $75-100

Works great!

I replaced each component a night after getting off work.
Took me 3 days.