How do exhaust horn rings go bad? (1 Viewer)

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Yea I do understand they are meant to move, but I would think rtv would break long before the metal
Does the service manual say to put sealer on them?
 
You all have covered a lot of ground already but here's my 2 cents -

The rings and springs that I had when I started this thread were in a NOS manifold, never used until I installed it a couple years back. But those rings and springs had been sitting in there for all those years before I got it, doing nothing. So they were flat, and they leaked, hot or cold.

When I did the manifold AGAIN as part of a head replacement last fall, I replaced the rings and springs with new ones and was able to compare. The new ones sit proud and suggest that they will partially seal when cold, and expand to seal even more when hot.

I did use the Ultra Copper RTV this time around, but not actually ON the rings - I put it in the slip-joint type junction where the horn slides into the rest of the manifold.

No leaks there after a couple thousand miles... just some leaks in other places. It never ends!
 
You all have covered a lot of ground already but here's my 2 cents -

The rings and springs that I had when I started this thread were in a NOS manifold, never used until I installed it a couple years back. But those rings and springs had been sitting in there for all those years before I got it, doing nothing. So they were flat, and they leaked, hot or cold.

When I did the manifold AGAIN as part of a head replacement last fall, I replaced the rings and springs with new ones and was able to compare. The new ones sit proud and suggest that they will partially seal when cold, and expand to seal even more when hot.

I did use the Ultra Copper RTV this time around, but not actually ON the rings - I put it in the slip-joint type junction where the horn slides into the rest of the manifold.

No leaks there after a couple thousand miles... just some leaks in other places. It never ends!
Ok cool so both theories have some truth. Never any problems having the rtv in those slip joints?
 
I just found that one of the applications on the right stuff red rtv actually says "slip fit exhaust parts"
You all have covered a lot of ground already but here's my 2 cents -

The rings and springs that I had when I started this thread were in a NOS manifold, never used until I installed it a couple years back. But those rings and springs had been sitting in there for all those years before I got it, doing nothing. So they were flat, and they leaked, hot or cold.

When I did the manifold AGAIN as part of a head replacement last fall, I replaced the rings and springs with new ones and was able to compare. The new ones sit proud and suggest that they will partially seal when cold, and expand to seal even more when hot.

I did use the Ultra Copper RTV this time around, but not actually ON the rings - I put it in the slip-joint type junction where the horn slides into the rest of the manifold.

No leaks there after a couple thousand miles... just some leaks in other places. It never ends!
 
Ok cool so both theories have some truth. Never any problems having the rtv in those slip joints?
No probs at the slip joints, and from the little bit that I can see, the rtv is holding up better than I expected.

Truth, though, is that with new rings and springs it probably wouldn’t have leaked anyway. But after going back and forth with so many exhaust leaks over the years, I just felt like “why the F not?”
 
@OSS So are you saying remove the riser flapper, and plug the holes, no need for the block off plate? Thanks
That's what the machine shop did to mine.
The machine shop that did the work for me rebuilds cruiser engines for TLC4x4 and they were very familiar with this manifold. I brought in the SOR manifold block off plate for them to install during the rebuild but I was talked out of it. He said they don't use those - even in hot Southern California.
So I wasn't one to argue with someone who obviously had a lot more experience with the issue than I did - so the plate didn't get installed. Engine ran fine after everything was all put back together. No hot running.

On the other hand, lots of guys on this website have installed that block off plate and haven't seen anything detrimental- so maybe it doesn't really matter one way or the other when you're actually driving the cruiser instead of thinking about it
 
@OSS thanks for clarifying. I just wish I had done something when I had it all apart. That's my fault for not doing the research. I am gonna drive it with a leak for a while until it drives me crazy.....I can hear it hissing outside of the driver seat its the bushings.
On another note, when it was all apart , I replaced my rings and springs as described , just lightly sanding and cleaned up the insides of the horns. I put nothing else on them and so far they are sealed up great.
Probably NOT possible, but i wonder if anyone has ever removed the flapper thing from the bottom? Remove the downpipe (i'm an expert at that now) then cut it out.
 

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