How bad is this rust? Please, need your opinion.. as I am new at this (1 Viewer)

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Hello Friends:
I need your opinion on a LC200 that I am wanting to buy. Unfortunately, I cannot see it in person at the moment.... so I asked the dealership to send me pics. Form the pics I see some rust ( though not sure). Can you please have a look and see if it is rust ? How bad is it? Can it be fixed?

ToyotaLC1.jpeg


ToyotaLC2.jpeg


ToyotaLC3.jpeg


ToyotaLC4.jpeg
 
Overall looks fine, but what you really need to see are the KDSS valves on the driver side.
 
It is Ok for most of the country and even great for some of it. Although for a CA car I would expect a bit less (not sure the car is CA, I can only see you are there). Maybe this one saw more rivers and/or beach driving. Also we do not know what year it is.
 
It is Ok for most of the country and even great for some of it. Although for a CA car I would expect a bit less (not sure the car is CA, I can only see you are there). Maybe this one saw more rivers and/or beach driving. Also we do not know what year it is.
Thank you for a very quick reply.. the car is in New Jersey and it is 2014.
 
Looks well kept and very minimal. Double check everything for textures to make sure it wasnt covered up with a paint spray.

For a 2014 NJ car its fantastic.
 
Thank you for a very quick reply.. the car is in New Jersey and it is 2014.
This thread is a perfect cautionary tale for you

 
Thanks for a very quick reply. I can ask the dealership and see if they can send me a pic or two on that.
If so have them remove the thin metal guard over it to get a better look.

If they have no clue what or where the KDSS valve is, it’s attached to the inside of the drivers side frame rail roughly lined up with the second row seats. It is a solid metal valve under a sheet metal guard with four ~1/2” hydraulic lines running into it, two from the front two from the rear.

Otherwise that thing does look pretty clean for NJ.
 
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Thank you all for the feedback. Amazing folks on this forum. I could not get the dealership to send me the pic for KDSS valve assembly.. and now they are saying sale is pending. Hopefully info obtained here be useful in the future. Thank you again.
 
If so have them remove the thin metal guard over it to get a better look.

If they have no clue what or where the KDSS valve is, it’s attached to the inside of the drivers side frame rail roughly lined up with the second row seats. It is a solid metal valve under a sheet metal guard with four ~1/2” hydraulic lines running into it, two from the front two from the rear.

Otherwise that thing does look pretty clean for NJ.
I'd ask them to verify that they can break the two valve Allen screws loose. not open them up but just break them free and retorque them. I'd also ask them to verify that the tech has serviced a KDSS system before. or, if you decide to go forward, ask to to that yourself as a condition of sale. From the pics, I think the risk of them being super corroded is low.
 
I'd ask them to verify that they can break the two valve Allen screws loose. not open them up but just break them free and retorque them. I'd also ask them to verify that the tech has serviced a KDSS system before. or, if you decide to go forward, ask to to that yourself as a condition of sale. From the pics, I think the risk of them being super corroded is low.
Unless they do the research they won’t know they need to be torqued with the vehicle at ride height.

But yes actually verifying the screws will move is a much better thing to achieve if possible.
 
Unless they do the research they won’t know they need to be torqued with the vehicle at ride height.

But yes actually verifying the screws will move is a much better thing to achieve if possible.
I think if you only broke the screws loose (<1/4 turn) the valves wouldn't actually open so it could be done on a lift. I don't actually know how many turns unseat the valve and allow fluid to move so maybe I am full of it. I do know what happens at about 4 turns and I highly recommend not doing that! Of course doing it on the ground would be safest.
 
I think if you only broke the screws loose (<1/4 turn) the valves wouldn't actually open so it could be done on a lift. I don't actually know how many turns unseat the valve and allow fluid to move so maybe I am full of it. I do know what happens at about 4 turns and I highly recommend not doing that! Of course doing it on the ground would be safest.
In this market I think in the meantime the vehicle would sell and we’d be busy obsessing over hex screws.
 
In this market I think in the meantime the vehicle would sell and we’d be busy obsessing over hex screws.
good point. maybe just bring this up when u r at the dealership.
 
I think if you only broke the screws loose (<1/4 turn) the valves wouldn't actually open so it could be done on a lift. I don't actually know how many turns unseat the valve and allow fluid to move so maybe I am full of it. I do know what happens at about 4 turns and I highly recommend not doing that! Of course doing it on the ground would be safest.
If they did it on their 4-post or alignment lifts it should be fine either way.
 

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