How much rust is acceptable? (1 Viewer)

[BradBrad]

2015 LX 570
129,000 miles
Body is mint frame is ?????


Pulled the trigger on this and waiting for the PPI
I am concerned about the “surface” rust and is it worse than what appears?

It needs to be washed so the dirt and salt residue can be removed making it easier to see existing rust.

I plan to Fluid Film it after I take a wire brush to it.

Thoughts?
And areas I should look deeper into ?

Thank you

 

[Kinnada]

2015 LX 570
129,000 miles
Body is mint frame is ?????


Pulled the trigger on this and waiting for the PPI
I am concerned about the “surface” rust and is it worse than what appears?

It needs to be washed so the dirt and salt residue can be removed making it easier to see existing rust.

I plan to Fluid Film it after I take a wire brush to it.

Thoughts?
And areas I should look deeper into ?

Thank you

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doesn't look bad to me. looks like mostly surface rust on welds, which seem to get rusty first. my 14 cruiser had a similar amount when i first purchased (maryland vehicle). i wire wheeled it, primed and painted and now fluid film every fall. haven't seen any orange anywhere under there since and looks great.
the tire carrier and kdss valves were probably the second most effected areas for me (no kdss to worry about for you). looks like a great time to intervene.

 

[BradBrad]

doesn't look bad to me. looks like mostly surface rust on welds, which seem to get rusty first. my 14 cruiser had a similar amount when i first purchased (maryland vehicle). i wire wheeled it, primed and painted and now fluid film every fall. haven't seen any orange anywhere under there since and looks great.
the tire carrier and kdss valves were probably the second most effected areas for me (no kdss to worry about for you). looks like a great time to intervene.

Thank you for responding. Some of the bolts look beat up and there what appears to be a sensor next to one of the globes seems to be a little ragged.

What did you use for primer and paint?

 

[BradBrad]

This is what I was referring to

 

[Kinnada]

Thank you for responding. Some of the bolts look beat up and there what appears to be a sensor next to one of the globes seems to be a little ragged.

What did you use for primer and paint?

everyone has an opinion on what works best. for me, it was important to get to bare metal, clean with detergent and dry, and then properly apply thin layers of rustoleum auto primer straight from a rattle can, with a basic cardboard shield to prevent overspray. can't remember the paint but i have a few cans in my shed i'll take a look when i get home later and let you know. lots of people dont like paint because of potential chipping and possibly covering rust that you can't see (which is why it's important to remove entirely if possible). has worked great for me for about 8 years. do a search lots of stuff and opinions on best rust solutions.

 

[BradBrad]

I did a ton of research. Exactly what you said. Priming and painting needs to be spot on in order to prevent rust from forming underneath.

 

[Kinnada]

This is what I was referring to

View attachment 3501832for raw iron parts i didn't paint. i simply brushed those by hand and used marine grease on the kdss valve body, and for the bolts i sprayed fluid film for those not attached to exhaust system, high heat or attached/ near rubber parts.

 

[Sandroad]

Looks fine to me, with some follow-up rust treatment per above. You don’t indicate where you live, but that would guide how aggressive you get in further prevention.

 

[Zill]

Looks decent to me. It’s there but not too terrible.

I wouldn’t apply paint over it, but I would hose it down with an annual spray treatment of Wool Wax/Fluid Film. I would also get the clear kind so you can still see what’s happening under the oil undercoating.

I am not a huge fan of applying paint over rust since then you can’t get a good oil layer over the top of the rust to starve the metal of the oxidation process. The paint can develop cracks where water can get underneath and start to rot the metal from the inside out. (Paint doesn’t breathe, but those oil under coatings do which is why only using the oil undercoating is the best since if any water gets under the oil layer, it will evaporate away… paint will just hold it in)

 

[PDoyle]

FYI Woolwax has a new product called Hard-on.
Highly recommended.

 

[Madtiger]

Make sure AHC is working. Confirm that fluid of AHC has been serviced.

 

[BradBrad]

Make sure AHC is working. Confirm that fluid of AHC has been serviced.

AHC is fully functional. Fluid has not been changed but the AHC works as it should

 

[AZLX570]

Looks decent to me. It’s there but not too terrible.

I wouldn’t apply paint over it, but I would hose it down with an annual spray treatment of Wool Wax/Fluid Film. I would also get the clear kind so you can still see what’s happening under the oil undercoating.

I am not a huge fan of applying paint over rust since then you can’t get a good oil layer over the top of the rust to starve the metal of the oxidation process. The paint can develop cracks where water can get underneath and start to rot the metal from the inside out. (Paint doesn’t breathe, but those oil under coatings do which is why only using the oil undercoating is the best since if any water gets under the oil layer, it will evaporate away… paint will just hold it in)

So say you live in a dry area (no snow/salt) with a car similar to above. Still recommend fluid film to keep it at bay over rust converter/paint?

 

[stonepa]

So say you live in a dry area (no snow/salt) with a car similar to above. Still recommend fluid film to keep it at bay over rust converter/paint?

I would say yes. My experience with rust convertor and any paint in a marine / coastal environment was not positive. It was worthless. Fluid film and/or wool wax or other lanolin product seems to work every single time.

 

[Zill]

I would say yes. My experience with rust convertor and any paint in a marine / coastal environment was not positive. It was worthless. Fluid film and/or wool wax or other lanolin product seems to work every single time.

Agreed, rust is a cancer and once it starts, it’s hard to stop it. Starving the oxidation process by means of using an oil (lanolin) layer to displace the water seems to do the best.

It makes a mess whenever you want to work on your car, but that mess is easier than dealing with broken bolts or fasteners due to rust rot.

 

[stonepa]

Agreed, rust is a cancer and once it starts, it’s hard to stop it. Starving the oxidation process by means of using an oil (lanolin) layer to displace the water seems to do the best.

It makes a mess whenever you want to work on your car, but that mess is easier than dealing with broken bolts or fasteners due to rust rot.

I use brake or suspension cleaner. Takes the coating right off in the targeted area. Just remember to reapply.

 

[cpcc]

looks okay, I wouldn't be too concerned