How bad is it to drive on a leaking steering rack for another 2-3 weeks?

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Mar 3, 2017
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Location
Austin, TX
My rack is leaking like a sieve. By leaking, I mean enough that my entire undercarriage, front diff, control arms (both sides) and more is coated in ATF fluid that has been slung everywhere. Looks like some fluid even came out of the reservoir in the engine bay under pressure and got on some hoses too. I put in some 205 which has lessened the leak, but it's still dripping. It definitely needs replacing though. But, I'm headed to CO tonight (from TX). Are there any issues with doing this?
 
We've three main areas to look at for leaks. Hoses, vane pump and rack. If Vane pump or high pressure line, it can come out very fast. If rack input or output, these leaks tend to be slower. If return hose or suction hose ( hoses attached at reservoir) they tend to be slower.

A sudden bad leak blow in engine bay is very often the Vane pump. New pump is the fix.

Knowing where it's leaking from will help make the call. Fixing before getting on the road is best. But if leak slow enough. You can keep topping at each gas stop.

Risk of running to low.
If vane pump runs dry it can damage it. You'll lose power steering. So it takes a lot muscle to turn. But manageable when moving on open HWY. Mountain roads could be very difficult in the curves. Pump could freeze and take out drive belt. Than you loose fan, alternator and AC.
 
Post a picture of vane pump. If that rust colored area is very wet. It's likely Vane pump is one of your leaks.
PM me if your coming into South end of Denver on I-25. I can take a look.
01 LX470 day 4 oil fliter, tensioner pulley bearning, after cleaning 001 (59).webp
 
Post a picture of vane pump. If that rust colored area is very wet. It's likely Vane pump is one of your leaks.
PM me if your coming into South end of Denver on I-25. I can take a look.
View attachment 2069810

That pump was very wet. There's actually ATF spray on the engine side of the airbox and lots of spray on the oil filter. Sounds like I might be looking at a rack and a pump. The boots are soaked on both sides and are definitely leaking. The ATP205 definitely lessened the amount leaking out (it's only a very light drip now and there doesn't seem to be as much "spray" in the engine compartment). I wiped everything down real good last night and checked everything at work this morning and it seems better. I'll snap a few pics shortly.
 
I saw one just the other day and 00LX w/300K. Where power steering is leaking at every possible spot and rack mounts and gears are shot. Also all ball joints (upper & lower) and TRE (inner and out) are also shot. His wheel bearings are also loose. Timing belt 200K over due. Heater tees leaking. Coolant low and nothing in reservoir. Stabilizer bushing all shot. Spark plugs sound like they are loose or exhaust leak or both. The list went on.

He just keeps driving and has been for a long time like this..
 
I saw one just the other day and 00LX w/300K. Where power steering is leaking at every possible spot and rack mounts and gears are shot. Also all ball joints (upper & lower) and TRE (inner and out) are also shot. His wheel bearings are also loose. Timing belt 200K over due. Heater tees leaking. Coolant low and nothing in reservoir. Stabilizer bushing all shot. Spark plugs sound like they are loose or exhaust leak or both. The list went on.

He just keeps driving and has been for a long time like this..

Well, just went up to LandCruiser Specialists and diagnosed the problem. The rack is definitely leaking (hardly now because of the 205) and the pump is "weeping"......but barely. They said it's fine to drive with no issues and that I could wait until I get back to replace the rack.

So.....here's what the issue is.....what was coating my undercarriage was NOT ATF fluid...it was motor oil. I changed oil last month before HIH9. Since Toyota was closed the day before I left, I bought a "quality" Mobil1 filter. Well, as it turns out, it was manufactured incorrectly. The gasket had an almost imperceptible "void". That was allowing oil to weep out of the filter. All 3 of the mechanics inspected the filter and showed me the defect. They said they saw one recently on another 100 Series that came in with a "burning" oil smell. I was about 1/2 quart low on volume. Replaced the filter with a Toyota OEM they had in stock, tightened up and topped off with 1/2 quart.

I'm going to powerwash the undercarriage this afternoon so I can monitor the steering rack leak more effectively. As it stands though, my undercarriage won't rust I guess.
 
Ive had the M1 filter issue before on another vehicle.
 
Ive had the M1 filter issue before on another vehicle.

I was shocked. Not only was there a small void in the gasket, but the stamping was off...there was a very, VERY small "gap" where the outer casing was pressing into the lip. Hard to describe. I was in a rush when I installed and "assumed" it was quality. I have always used Toyota OEM filters for everything and have never had any issues. One time, I get in a rush and buy an aftermarket filter I thought was quality and this happens. Lesson learned. OEM only for me.
 
I daily my 100 with a leaking rack and hoses from the reservoir. I top it off every 500-600 miles. Its been like this for over 1 year.

Also, I would always use OEM oil filter, I read nothing can beat OEM as far as quality.
 
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