Hot on the Highway

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SURVEYOR CRUISER said:
My thoughts of today after talking with the Northern Radiator the company who makes my aluminum rad is to go with an electric fan and shroud, which they claim will far exceed my factory fan's CFM. I should still have room for the factory fan in addition to this just as a safety precaution should the electric fan ever fail out in the sticks. The only thing I am trying to decide on now is how many CFM is too much. The guy from the rad company though 1900 would be plenty, though they do offer a fan which is 3000 CFM, but he though the 3000 CFM would result in no heat out my heater core. Has any tried an electric fan and can offer CFM suggestions.
Thanks:beer:
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Your getting deeper into unknown territory. I would try the shroud 1st.
Ask the guy at the radiator shop if you can have your money back if it dont work;)
 
Been there done/doing the overheat at highway speeds. First, I removed my 1/4 inch bug mesh - that got me one needle width cooler. 2nd, I moved my winch controller partially out of the way, that got me another needle width cooler. Added Alum. Radiator, cooler yet. My last innovation was to have Toyota flush the engine and add Toyota Red - that got even better cooling ability. I still overheat at highway speed long hills. Yes, I can slow down, but I don't really want to. I don't know the solution yet, but I'll figure it out eventually.

So - airflow. The shroud and clearing out the front. Don't waste your money on the electric fan - been there, done that. Although a Taurus Fan (fits a 60 series) and a 90amp bosch relay might do it.

Bob
 
maximBJ70 said:
too little fuel = hot (You've got your understanding backwards) Remember a fire burns hotter with the more air you add.
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I have to correct this before it gets archived. In the case of a diesel, fuel has a direct relationship with heat. It is precisely opposite of what happens in a gasser.

Once again, in a diesel, More fuel = more heat.

In this case I'd double check the gauge. (especially if it is an Autometer)
It wouldn't be the first time somebody spent lots of time and money chasing an overheating problem that didn't actually exist.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=63551&highlight=heat

Also having the coolant rise to 220 or 230 at the top of a pass is perfectly normal in my experience. I watch for it to drop back to t-stat as soon as I start to lift the throttle at the top.
 
i was about to mention the same thing Bruce but you beat me to it...
 
I also agree with the last post .More fuel more heat!! bang on mate thats the way it works. something disturbed me about the comment "Regarding the fan, the factory fan is a pusher? as it pushes air to the front of the vehicle?" has the fan been mounted back to front ?
Most diesel engines rely on a delta-t of 10-12deg C (heat transfer across the radiator) if you heat your truck up and take a couple of accurate temp measurements at different points in the system you can get a very clear picture of what's going wrong with the system. (A red dot heat gun is invaluable for this and relatively cheap tool)
A- water pump
B- bottom rad hose
C- top rad hose
D- thermostat
E- bypass hose
The best indicator that the airflow is not sufficent is a low delta-t ;ie the top rad hose measures 98degC and the bottom reads 95degC . A high delta-t will indicate a bad water pump or with other symptom's a thermostat issue
 
BlueHZT60 said:
Been there done/doing the overheat at highway speeds. First, I removed my 1/4 inch bug mesh - that got me one needle width cooler. 2nd, I moved my winch controller partially out of the way, that got me another needle width cooler. Added Alum. Radiator, cooler yet. My last innovation was to have Toyota flush the engine and add Toyota Red - that got even better cooling ability. I still overheat at highway speed long hills. Yes, I can slow down, but I don't really want to. I don't know the solution yet, but I'll figure it out eventually.

So - airflow. The shroud and clearing out the front. Don't waste your money on the electric fan - been there, done that. Although a Taurus Fan (fits a 60 series) and a 90amp bosch relay might do it.

The Saga continues unfortunately. I have added a 1500 cfm 20 amp electric fan flush mounted against the radiator. So airflow must still be restricted by my intercooler and A/C condensor. I am also off to go buy a laser thermometer tonight to test the accuracy of my factory gauge and autometer gauge. Both have been consistent with each other. The factory gauge still read almost to the red zone on hills. I am ok with the diesel heating up to about 200 degree F. I hope it is something small that I am overlooking. MY EGTS hit the hottest of 1100 degrees. AXT says a max of 1400 degrees to I am ok there. Cant wait to get this issue cleared up. Gotta love 4 months of work to be back in the same spot befor you started. Please keep the comments commin.
:beer:
Thanks
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