Hose coming off carb puzzle??

[sleepycruiser]

I’ve been spraying down all the bolts on the manifold so I can swap out the crimped, likely leaking manifold gasket. So far only two more bolts to get loosened…so I’ve got that going for me.

Today I was getting my ratchet in there and noticed the bottom hose that travels over to the oil fill tube was loose on the bottom of the carb. Looks like there was a lot of sealant put on it at some point before I owned it. And I was able to pull it out easily.

What is this for and should I just use sealant again? If so, what kind?

If not, how do I fix that? I wonder if that is where a lot of the exhaust smell comes from and/or why I could sometimes slightly stall when coming to a stop.

Any ideas??

 

[JohnnyC]

Pcv positive crankcase ventilation

 

[pb4ugo]

That is likely a vacuum leak.

 

[sleepycruiser]

Pcv positive crankcase ventilation

That is likely a vacuum leak.

How should it even be connected under the carb? Looks like a copper pipe or something that was squished. Maybe that is by design, I have no idea when it comes to carbs.

I wonder what type of sealant would work short term. I’ve already been driving it for over a year like this.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Take it off. Apply a good fuel/oil proof sealer, jam it in hard. Let dry/cure, then drill threw the unit and pin in place or tap it and put in a screw. Get a new isolator.

 

[sleepycruiser]

Take it off. Apply a good fuel/oil proof sealer, jam it in hard. Let dry/cure, then drill threw the unit and pin in place or tap it and put in a screw. Get a new isolator.

Hmm…I’ll have to figure out how to pin it or tap…or you mean remove all the existing sealant, tap the isolator and put in a different connector on the end of the hose?

It is a Weber 32/36 with electric choke. 1F engine. I assume there is a specific isolator?

 

[pb4ugo]

I think you need ti remove the carb and see where and how it attaches. Sealant may not be enuff. If it can be fixed maybe epoxy, solder, or probably something permanent.

 

[JohnnyC]

It is easier to remove carb… in press it back in using jbweld let cure … reassemble

 

[Downey]

^^^^ solid info, J.B. weld

 

[sleepycruiser]

Tested it out….started up the 40 and then pulled that out and it died. Any particular JB Weld I should grab??

 

[charliemeyer007]

Prep is the key. Clean, dry and roughed up. I still vote for pinning it in place, use the glue as a sealant.

 

[sleepycruiser]

Prep is the key. Clean, dry and roughed up. I still vote for pinning it in place, use the glue as a sealant.

I’m a little confused on how to pin it

 

[steffan]

Pining it sounds like asking for trouble to me… definitely would hold it in place but I’d be worried about cracking the base etc.
As mentioned above, hard to go wrong with the JB Weld

 

[charliemeyer007]

Glue it in place. let dry. Got a small drill bit like 1/16", drill into the assembly anywhere you can intersect the two pieces A blind hole is fine, two at different angles would be better. Small nail like for drywall should be close. Pound in the nail.

 

[Shark56]

Does it look like this?

(Pic from webs)

Stock carb to manifold plate?
If so, it is likely cracked where the tube inserted into the plate.
Post up a wanted add in the classified.
That is a common part replaced when swapping to EFI type carb.

 

[sleepycruiser]

Does it look like this?

View attachment 3928533
(Pic from webs)

Stock carb to manifold plate?
If so, it is likely cracked where the tube inserted into the plate.
Post up a wanted add in the classified.
That is a common part replaced when swapping to EFI type carb.

I’m not sure…but likely. Thanks for that pic!

 

[sleepycruiser]

Should I use JB weld epoxy or gasket maker? I was going to use the high temp version. None of those say gas/exhaust friendly.

 

[charliemeyer007]

epoxy

 

[Mark Jennings]

They were originally soldered, a good weld shop (or plumber) should be able to help you out.

JB will last a good while, but will eventually fail….at the most inopportune time.

Also, those threaded PCV valves are another unobtainable item. When I bought my rig in 1994 and did its first tune up, I bought 3. Reason; NAPA in Hobbs NM said he hadn’t sold one in like 10 years, and he wasn’t going to restock. So I purchased one and he gave me the other two.

Fast forward to 2018, beast restored all painted and pretty, rebuilt engine just ran like crap. The vacuum leak WAS the PCV…I had soaked it in carb cleaner and even though you cold hear it rattle, it was stuck wide open. So now I have one spare.

 

[sleepycruiser]

They were originally soldered, a good weld shop (or plumber) should be able to help you out.

JB will last a good while, but will eventually fail….at the most inopportune time.

Also, those threaded PCV valves are another unobtainable item. When I bought my rig in 1994 and did its first tune up, I bought 3. Reason; NAPA in Hobbs NM said he hadn’t sold one in like 10 years, and he wasn’t going to restock. So I purchased one and he gave me the other two.

Fast forward to 2018, beast restored all painted and pretty, rebuilt engine just ran like crap. The vacuum leak WAS the PCV…I had soaked it in carb cleaner and even though you cold hear it rattle, it was stuck wide open. So now I have one spare.

Great info. I have a mobile welder coming over to do some other stuff (stuck bolts) so I’ll add that to the list. Any idea what gaskets I would need?

For the PCV….I have thought about taking it off and cleaning it, but not sure if it is breakable. And since it sounds like they aren’t available not sure I want to mess with it. Any alternative?