Hopeful Romantic (1 Viewer)

[atlaslabs]

You adjusted nothing. The 1972 and older steering boxes need to be disassembled in order to be adjusted.

The inside of the box is filled with steel shims that fill in the space between the sector shaft and the housing, completely. The ‘adjuster’ is ONLY used to reset the preload AFTER shims are removed to improve contact between the worm gear and the sector.

A primitive design compared to modern standards, which is not aided by the fact there are no more parts to rebuild them.

Lol, well that’s good to know! Just one more reason to go with the power steering conversion sooner rather than later

 

[pb4ugo]

Now comes multiple questions regarding my steering column:

I currently have a stock steering column with a GM adapter that the PO installed. Obviously the turn signal selectors don’t self cancel, but they currently take the strength of 7 large Russians to move. Is this something g that can be fixed, or should I just pick up an new turn signal selector?

I would also love to have an OEM steering wheel instead of the one that is currently on there. With it being a 10/71 the wheels are $500-1000 minimum if you can find them. What components wouldn’t work if I swapped in a 73+ steering wheel and are there anyways around the incompatibility?

On your 40, the steering column shaft is part of the steering box. If you remove the box the column goes with it. To use the column I think you may have to cut the shaft off the box. I would think it would be easier to adapt a later model steering column and wheel if your going to power steering. The stk early steering wheel has a very large diameter for leverage to turn the wheels. You can probably find a complete later model column and wheel for much less than an older steering wheel by itself.

You say you want to go with sag power steering, have you looked at other options too. You can remove your box and adapt a stk 40/mini truck p/s box and column. If your running larger tires this option may not be strong enuff. You can adapt Sag steering which requires cutting into the frt crossmember and reinforcing that area and adapting a scab plate for the box. You will end up with the box being in frt of the bib and outside the engine compartment. You can go Scout/FJ60/FJ80 steering, which imo, is less evasive than sag steering and the box is located inside the engine compartment. Then there's electric. All styles require modifications. Scout and FJ 60 boxes are getting pretty scarce and the FJ80 boxes are probably easier to find. You can look in the FAQ's at the top of this section for p/s info, also look in "tech links" in FAQ's too, and you should do a search in the 40 section for more up to date info on scout, FJ60, sag, power steering. FJ80 p/s is a similar setup as scout/FJ60. I personally run scout on both my 40's and prefer it. My 1st 40 had sag steering hacked in by the PO , which eventually wiped out my left frt frame rail and crossmember. I had to change to scout because of poor execution.

 

[atlaslabs]

On your 40, the steering column shaft is part of the steering box. If you remove the box the column goes with it. To use the column I think you may have to cut the shaft off the box. I would think it would be easier to adapt a later model steering column and wheel if your going to power steering. The stk early steering wheel has a very large diameter for leverage to turn the wheels. You can probably find a complete later model column and wheel for much less than an older steering wheel by itself.

You say you want to go with sag power steering, have you looked at other options too. You can remove your box and adapt a stk 40/mini truck p/s box and column. If your running larger tires this option may not be strong enuff. You can adapt Sag steering which requires cutting into the frt crossmember and reinforcing that area and adapting a scab plate for the box. You will end up with the box being in frt of the bib and outside the engine compartment. You can go Scout/FJ60/FJ80 steering, which imo, is less evasive than sag steering and the box is located inside the engine compartment. Then there's electric. All styles require modifications. Scout and FJ 60 boxes are getting pretty scarce and the FJ80 boxes are probably easier to find. You can look in the FAQ's at the top of this section for p/s info, also look in "tech links" in FAQ's too, and you should do a search in the 40 section for more up to date info on scout, FJ60, sag, power steering. FJ80 p/s is a similar setup as scout/FJ60. I personally run scout on both my 40's and prefer it. My 1st 40 had sag steering hacked in by the PO , which eventually wiped out my left frt frame rail and crossmember. I had to change to scout because of poor execution.

I’ve currently got 33’s on it so I’m not sure the mini box option would work. I haven’t looked too much into the scout/fj60/fj80 option, but I’ll give those a look and see.

Regardless of what option I end up going, I’ll have to remove my steering box, and adapt the current column or buy a new column though, correct?

 

[rainingagain]

That's definitely the worst part. The paint is getting redone anyways since this one looks like it was done by a toddler during arts and crafts time. The question is: Do I redo the same color and keep it matching with the tacoma, or do I take this as an opportunity to do something different with it?

I still have to do a little research to figure out which one. Any opinions in which would be the better route to go?

These were single stage from the factory and IMO that's what looks best. Base/clear just looks to shiny and off. There was one in the classifieds recently that was dark blue/purple with what looked like 10 coats of clear. It just doesn't sit right. Save that for your Chevelle or bass boat haha.

Depending on what your plans are, that should guide your color choice. I may have missed it, but if don't want to strip down the entire tub then I'd stick with the current color.

Check the rag joint about that sloppy steering maybe?

 

[atlaslabs]

These were single stage from the factory and IMO that's what looks best. Base/clear just looks to shiny and off. There was one in the classifieds recently that was dark blue/purple with what looked like 10 coats of clear. It just doesn't sit right. Save that for your Chevelle or bass boat haha.

Depending on what your plans are, that should guide your color choice. I may have missed it, but if don't want to strip down the entire tub then I'd stick with the current color.

Check the rag joint about that sloppy steering maybe?

Yeah, I’ve decided on single stage for the paint. I’ll probably keep it the current color, but I’m still planning on doing an entire frame off paint job on it. So ill be stripping the tub anyways

And I’ll give the rag joint a check! Thank you!

 

[pb4ugo]

You don't have a rag joint. As mentioned b4, the column shaft is part of the steering box. Have someone shake the wheel back and forth and watch all the components for movement. Make sure the center arm shaft isn't wobbling and that the housing is tight to the frame. Check bushings a ubolts. Check the caster angle.

 

[atlaslabs]

You don't have a rag joint. As mentioned b4, the column shaft is part of the steering box. Have someone shake the wheel back and forth and watch all the components for movement. Make sure the center arm shaft isn't wobbling and that the housing is tight to the frame. Check bushings a ubolts. Check the caster angle.

I was just about to respond with the same thing. Took a look under the hood and no worm joint. Once my wife gets home I’ll do another check on it. I’m pretty confident that the issue is somewhere between the steering wheel and the drag link. From the little I can tell, as soon as I clear the empty slack, the drag link begins to move and everything else in succession. The question now is just at what point in that area is the issue.

 

[jvincig01]

You adjusted nothing. The 1972 and older steering boxes need to be disassembled in order to be adjusted.

The inside of the box is filled with steel shims that fill in the space between the sector shaft and the housing, completely. The ‘adjuster’ is ONLY used to reset the preload AFTER shims are removed to improve contact between the worm gear and the sector.

A primitive design compared to modern standards, which is not aided by the fact there are no more parts to rebuild them.

@65swb45 Mark, the steering wheel on my '67 has too much play in it. Adjusting this screw on the left in the middle of the plate won't help? p,s. i am not the artist

 

[65swb45]

@65swb45 Mark, the steering wheel on my '67 has too much play in it. Adjusting this screw on the left in the middle of the plate won't help? p,s. i am not the artist
View attachment 3105266

Correct. The shims illustrated to the right of the oil fill plug are what MAKE the adjustment. The screw SETS the adjustment by pushing the sector shaft against the remaining shims.

 

[locklaw]

Correct. The shims illustrated to the right of the oil fill plug are what MAKE the adjustment. The screw SETS the adjustment by pushing the sector shaft against the remaining shims.

Any idea of what the ID and OD of the shims are off hand? The early box is very reminiscent of the Ross steering box designs used extensively in early Jeeps, Dodge Power Wagons and WW2 carryalls. The shim kits for them are prevalent, as are Dana differential shim kits. Bearings and bushes are available aftermarket and the roller is still available from Toyota. There must be a way to do this still without manufacturing