Hood Deflection at Speed

[LandCruisinMy93]

The stuff you need is sold by automotive paint and bodywork suppliers. It's used to bond panels together, not so much a sealer, but am actual glue to literally glue panels on. Used a lot in automotive manufacturing in the last 20+ years, hell there are whole vehicles whose unibody is held together by nothing more than rivets and adhesive. No spot welds or anything else. Probably won't be cheap, but as long as you properly seal it after use, you could probably play pass the paste with other mud members charge them a small amount and shipping.

 

[plutonius]

You need something if you care about your paint. I am in the middle of my own heat reduction method, but the difference between where the heat deflection is and isn't is startling just with bare hand on the outside of the hood.

My hood is lined with a few coats of Al's, and vented...so I wonder if it's all that necessary. I do have a full roll of silver heat blanket in the garage from my TVR, but I wonder if it's necessary.

 

[Hornd]

I have had 3 80's that had this issue. I tried fire rated caulking; however, it got too hard and brittle. I used seam sealer (not self leveling) last time, seemed to work great.

I had not seen people use foam for this before. Not sure if that is my first choice. MSDS sheet on the Loctite says long term exposure to 194 degrees max. Given a 200 degree engine is inches away from it, not sure it will stand up over time. Also, not sure if it has fire retardant properties or not.

There is fire block foam that is similar to the product you used, and has fire rating.

I have the blue fan clutch with 10K so my temps stay much lower. Air gap from Fiberglass pad has hood temps at about 150 tops.

 

[DARKNESS]

I need to do this, my hood deflects like crazy.

 

[Hornd]

I will honestly report the results.

Costs a whopping $5

That foam covers a lot of surface area and it's pretty dense.

I imagine heat is the cause of failure for original adhesive, heat caused the original throttle cable sheath to crack off.

 

[Hornd]

Using a thermal imaging camera to shoot the hood we can know the hot spots and then apply a corresponding thickness of thermal barrier with a R-Value appropriate to the application . Looking into some Nasa Mylar Reflective Rover based media with Ceramic coating to reduce thermal decay.

Will be doing a group buy on these. Price should approach what most owners are buying their rigs for.

 

[Marine7]

The body shop I use to work at in my spare time used the foam. No problems with heat, and the Loctite brand DOES bond to each surface. Just go a little easy, don't "spaz" out, and pump every square CM with it, let it expand just a little bit! Good luck! P.S....... DONT LET THIS s*** DRY ON ANYTHING YOU WANT TO USE AGAIN, cause it ain't happening!!

 

[bahamasair]

I used the 3m super fast urethane on mine. Main thing to know is not to seal the entire stiffening structure I just put it where the factory stuff was so it allows the skin to expand some. I've had mine in the 90s and it's still bonded. The urethane is a popular choice with the Camaro crowd.
I didn't take off the hood, just use a regular caulk gun and then closed the hood and let it dry.

 

[Aggiesdm]

I got a new-to-me hood heat shield the other day and removed my oil soaked and tattered one to find that the hood-frame had separated from the skin and was flexing quite a bit on the highway.

Anyway, I ended up using Great-Stuff to fill the gap and then I lowered the hood and placed a block in between the throttle body and the hood-frame. I then placed a 10lb weight on top of the hood to create some down pressure. It squeezed it together just enough to help it cure pretty snugly and it turned out great. I was amazed how much more solid the hood sounded/felt when I closed it. Time will tell how it holds up, but I'll report back if I see it failing.