My bump stops do hit all the time (front and rear Durobumps). Honestly I don't even notice them hitting other than the squish marks on the rear axle and LCA, which means they are doing their job. If they are hitting too much due to the back riding too low you are losing articulation.
Builds Homer's 2003 GX470 Build 8.2 4.56 2.5 34s (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter HomersCanyonero
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- Thread starter
- #442
Front: Durobumps
Rear: Timbren Bumpstops
Both feel great offroad compared to the rock hard oem ones.
Rear bumpstop doesn’t hit much on pavement but it looks like it hit more offroad. I don’t feel them hitting because they are soft and rear timbren compress up to 2.25”
So, from a feel perspective they are great. They handle big bumps very softly.
However, from an articulation perspective…they seem to limit my up travel more than I want.
I have to be in the sweet spot between not limiting articulation too much and protecting the extended length rear shock from bottoming out.
In my mind and based on my calculations, I need to lift the rear about 3/4” on driver side and 1/2” on passenger side by either getting (1) Ironman adjustable bottom coil seats, (2) some type of upper coil spacer like cornfed leveling spacers, or (3) 1/2” longer coils like the 677v with a driver side 10mm trim packer/spacer.
I think this change will hit my sweet spot on my rig. Goldilocks would be happy in this scenario.
Rear: Timbren Bumpstops
Both feel great offroad compared to the rock hard oem ones.
Rear bumpstop doesn’t hit much on pavement but it looks like it hit more offroad. I don’t feel them hitting because they are soft and rear timbren compress up to 2.25”
So, from a feel perspective they are great. They handle big bumps very softly.
However, from an articulation perspective…they seem to limit my up travel more than I want.
I have to be in the sweet spot between not limiting articulation too much and protecting the extended length rear shock from bottoming out.
In my mind and based on my calculations, I need to lift the rear about 3/4” on driver side and 1/2” on passenger side by either getting (1) Ironman adjustable bottom coil seats, (2) some type of upper coil spacer like cornfed leveling spacers, or (3) 1/2” longer coils like the 677v with a driver side 10mm trim packer/spacer.
I think this change will hit my sweet spot on my rig. Goldilocks would be happy in this scenario.
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You might be able to remove that hockey puck but you would need to test if your shocks will bottom out before the bumps do. I'm running a 3" bump stop extension with a wheelers bump below that. Keep in mind that more wheel stuff might result in rubbing.
I have those in a box in the shed for "someday"Could also try a set of these and sell the inner bumpstops to another forum member:
Adjustable Rear Airbag Delete Kit | Toyota 4Runner (2010-2024)
This opens up the possibilities to lift your vehicle with several rear spring choices. If you are fortunate enough to own a totally sweet Toyota 4Runner or Lexus GX460 / GX470, one of the premium options these Prado’s came with was the Rear Adjustable Height Control (AHC) air suspension. Really...ironman4x4america.com
I have them on my GX (lowest setting). Have not had to adjust them yet but probably will bump things up a bit when 33s are added.
Did they add like 0.5" lift? Some coil conversions add a little lift, some less lift. I got those thinking lowest setting would add about a half inch lift, then I'd spec my coils accordingly for desired ride height.
**deleted b/c addressed in earlier (unseen by me) comment ;p)**
My buddy has a leaf pack and 1.5" lift on his X-terra, but when loaded i think it pretty much just rides on the timbrens...
I installed them when I lifted (2" total in the rear), so I'm unsure how much they'd lift relative to a non-adjustable coil conversion kit (though the 0.5" seems reasonable). Despite loading/towing with my GX quite a bit I have yet to use the adjustability feature. They came with my Ironman kit, so I probably wouldn't have got them on their own, but the adjustability is a nice peace of mind to support future changes to my GX.
GX DAVE
SILVER Star
To be honest I don't think you need that hockey puck spacer with the timbrens, if you remove them you'll get more up travel and articulation in the rear and will probably still hit the bump stops easily before rubbing the wheel well.
I'm running toytec 2" bump stop spacers to drop my stock bumps down and I also have a clear marking on my axle from where they come in contact w/ the axle when fully flexed and I do not have any issues w/ the tire rubbing on the wheel well.
I'd say those bump drops make the stock bumps about as long as the timbrens without the puck spacer so you should be in better shape if you just lose that spacer rather than putting in longer springs, because if you sit level and like your current stance and spring rate, raising the rear with stiffer/longer spring will cause you to sit less level and more stink bug (rear higher than front) and potentially sacrifice ride quality. Removing the spacer will allow you to keep your current stance and spring rate but gain rear articulation, likely without any additional rubbing.
I'm running toytec 2" bump stop spacers to drop my stock bumps down and I also have a clear marking on my axle from where they come in contact w/ the axle when fully flexed and I do not have any issues w/ the tire rubbing on the wheel well.
I'd say those bump drops make the stock bumps about as long as the timbrens without the puck spacer so you should be in better shape if you just lose that spacer rather than putting in longer springs, because if you sit level and like your current stance and spring rate, raising the rear with stiffer/longer spring will cause you to sit less level and more stink bug (rear higher than front) and potentially sacrifice ride quality. Removing the spacer will allow you to keep your current stance and spring rate but gain rear articulation, likely without any additional rubbing.
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- Thread starter
- #448
Good points
So, I fear removing my 1” hockey puck could result in my shocks being the bumpstops.
Also, the timbren bumpstops are 5” tall (compared to the hard oem 4.25” gx470 bumpstops), but the timbren compress 2.25” and that’s way more than oem bumpstops compress.
I agree with the advice regarding the timbren bumpstops are okay to hit the axle often. I’m about 1.5” from the axle plus the 2.25” compression, so the bumpstop can move 3.75” before stopping articulation and preventing my rear shock from becoming the bumpstop.
The 17” compressed Icon 56550 is about 2” taller than the compressed stock rear shocks (my guesstimate). The dobinson 675v variable rate springs have the same spring rate as the 1/2” taller 677v or the 1” taller Apache 735v so no difference in spring rate to get taller coil. Ride quality is the same on those 3.
In summary, there’s a sweet spot I’m trying to find between my rear bumpstops protecting my rear shocks, ride height with about 1/2” rake, and maximizing articulation without rubbing.
The issue is that I have long travel icon 56550 rear shocks which are 17” compressed and 28.5” extended.
So, I fear removing my 1” hockey puck could result in my shocks being the bumpstops.
Also, the timbren bumpstops are 5” tall (compared to the hard oem 4.25” gx470 bumpstops), but the timbren compress 2.25” and that’s way more than oem bumpstops compress.
I agree with the advice regarding the timbren bumpstops are okay to hit the axle often. I’m about 1.5” from the axle plus the 2.25” compression, so the bumpstop can move 3.75” before stopping articulation and preventing my rear shock from becoming the bumpstop.
The 17” compressed Icon 56550 is about 2” taller than the compressed stock rear shocks (my guesstimate). The dobinson 675v variable rate springs have the same spring rate as the 1/2” taller 677v or the 1” taller Apache 735v so no difference in spring rate to get taller coil. Ride quality is the same on those 3.
In summary, there’s a sweet spot I’m trying to find between my rear bumpstops protecting my rear shocks, ride height with about 1/2” rake, and maximizing articulation without rubbing.
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- Thread starter
- #449
Yeah a little adjustability on the rear coils is a great option to have. Ironman did good with that feature. It mimics the front coilover adjustability that some manufacturers have in the front.
The rear weight changes more often than the front due to acquiring more camping/overlanding gear!
- Thread starter
- #450
I tried to measure and do calculations and project travel distances…but I’m not as precise as Kai from Thinkerers Adventure.
I’ll try to measure again in my driveway. My previous calculations and measurements lead me to believe the 1” hockey puck is needed to protect the shock and a 1” rear lift would help me move up the shock to ride at say 22”.
But it’s not that easy to measure and project movement when there’s geometry
involved and non-flat areas to measure in hard to reach locations.
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- Thread starter
- #451
My rear icon shock is at 20.25” from top of the shock body to bottom mounting eye (center).I tried to measure and do calculations and project travel distances…but I’m not as precise as Kai from Thinkerers Adventure.
I’ll try to measure again in my driveway. My previous calculations and measurements lead me to believe the 1” hockey puck is needed to protect the shock and a 1” rear lift would help me move up the shock to ride at say 22”.
But it’s not that easy to measure and project movement when there’s geometry
This is with my gx470 70% loaded and sagging about 1/2” in the rear.
Ideally I should be around 21” to 22” to be about 4” to 5” from the bottom.
I go ditching the rear and leave the front. The solid axle in the back has far more range than the CVs will, plus the rear pushing with the weight of the truck vrs the front pulling has more hook up. Personally all my Prado 120 trucks, I leave the front on (unless running long travel) and pull the rear, then run our long travel kit to flex the rear out like crazy. Flexy rear will allow the front end to stay hooked up up.
- Thread starter
- #453
Good point. And love your MT4x4 YouTube videos. You explain things really well for us doing driveway work.
The only thing I will add is that removing the rear to allow all that flex in the rear makes the rig lean sideways more in the front. This was the counterintuitive findings from Kai’s YouTube video that the front and rear articulation impact each other.
The only question is the front sideways lean acceptable when removing the rear sway bar and getting that crazy articulation in the rear. And from your post I take it that it was acceptable to you.
Other than that your point that removing the rear sway bar gives you better traction due to rear pushing forward while planted in the ground is a great point.
Man…now I might have to add the front sway bar back on and remove the rear to try it out and see how it feels on the rutted trails. I do have your MT4x4 coil conversion kit, extended brake lines, icon 56550s in the rear to try the crazy articulation.
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- Thread starter
- #454
One of these days I’ll measure the rear flex
- Thread starter
- #455
Added 5-lb propane tank to Gobi ladder…now I carry propane and gasoline outside
Nice! Fabbing my propane holder to the gobi is my second next project.
I'd be interested to hear your feedback of rolling a full roto (or two, you have 2 right?) AND the 5# bomb...
My rack can do the 5# or 11# Need to mod pipe to hool hover the rungs, and add a clamping system.. maybe just Lokmans... ?
Which rack is yours?
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- Thread starter
- #457
I only made the Gobi ladder crossbars myself. I bought everything else.Nice! Fabbing my propane holder to the gobi is my second next project.
I'd be interested to hear your feedback of rolling a full roto (or two, you have 2 right?) AND the 5# bomb...
My rack can do the 5# or 11# Need to mod pipe to hool hover the rungs, and add a clamping system.. maybe just Lokmans... ?
Which rack is yours?
Power Tank sells ladder crossbars but they are like $160 with tax and shipping. So, I made my own crossbars for $52 including the hardware from Home Depot.
Just bought 1 1/2” flat aluminum bar (1/4” thick) and I cut to size and drilled 4 holes. Looking back…the flat bar width should match the tube clamp width. Mine is off by 1/2”.
Bought 4 aluminum tube clamps 1” diameter by 2” width from Amazon to attach to the Gobi ladder. Gobi side tube is 1” diameter.
My propane bracket I bought form Asphalt Killerz and I added a second strap called a boat quick lok strap.
I’m only going to carry one 3-gal rotopax and the 5# propane on the Gobi ladder. No problem with these two and they are lighter than two 3-gal Rotopax full of gasoline.
If I ever have to carry two rotopax 3-gal containers, then I’m gonna move the propane back inside.
I have 4 stock oem roof rack cross bars and I might put something up there one of these days.
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- Thread starter
- #458
On the rotopax mounts for the Gobi ladder, I used a heavy duty mount from overland equipped to strengthen the Rotopax lok pack mount. It feels very solid.
overlandequipped.com
Premium Heavy-Duty Rotopax Mounting Kit
Premium heavy-duty backing plate, Ladder Lock Bushings and longer hardware that fits the standard Rotopax mount. Turn your Gobi, Baja, Rhino, Thule or Yakima rack into a mounting point for your packs.
overlandequipped.com
- Thread starter
- #459
EimKeith LLS (rear lower link skid plate) and Taco Tabs have arrived. Need to install.
- Thread starter
- #460
Removed white mesh screen, so I can fit my yellow spout.
Much easier to fill and pour with this mod!
Much easier to fill and pour with this mod!
