Homebrew Single Group 31 Battery Install

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@TeCKis300 I have a GoalZero as well and charging from the power outlet in the rear does very little. Did you run a separate cigarettes' lighter to the rear or just ran it from the front?
If you want fast charging for the goal zero you should look at a yeti-link or a DC-to-DC charger
 
Yeti uses a 8mm plug…
Which can be adapted to a dcdc I think..

I too am off the AGM train, really it’s not worth it.. I elected to keep my stock g27, and go lithium in the cargo area.. I rolled my own just because of what I was working with.
 
@TeCKis300 I have a GoalZero as well and charging from the power outlet in the rear does very little. Did you run a separate cigarettes' lighter to the rear or just ran it from the front?

Yes, ran a power panel to the rear cargo area that has cig, USB, and Anderson ports. The way I use my car to overland with fridge, I find that the standard GoalZero car charger works fine to keep up.

If you need faster charging, Goal Zero makes a high power Yet Link car integration kit. Or there's well documented hacks to use a DC-DC converter like the following to get faster charging on the Anderson input port.
Amazon product ASIN B01M0YCDJ8
 
Good points and allow me to postulate.

Wiring gauge requirements is also a function of distance. The cross section of these two short segments is plenty. Evidence that they are sufficient would be that they are larger in cross section than parts of the OEM conductors which are just stamped sheet.

Yes, agreed that crimping with pliers, depending on how it's done can be suspect. Use a long 12" plier, and the throat to crimp. For your reasons stated, I'd say do at your own risk. Just know I've got several crimpers on hand and I've crimped many many thousands of 4 gauge terminals in my time. Having produced grounding kits for various car models many moons ago and never a failure. Soldering is a solid option too that can be done with a standard propane torch.

View attachment 2349866
Is there any downside to going with 2 awg wire rather than 4?
 
Is there any downside to going with 2 awg wire rather than 4?

None at all so long as you have the tools and can get the packaging to work.
 
OEM battery is starting to go - going this route. Can easily source the battery and slee tray.

Question is, is there an out of the box solution to the terminal extensions for those of us less DIY inclined and strapped for time?
 
Would the SLEE terminal extensions work?

 
Would the SLEE terminal extensions work?


Yes - good call. Was looking at an outdated product page that did not mention the terminals as an add on.

Should receive next week and will update thread once I get this installed.
 
Yes - good call. Was looking at an outdated product page that did not mention the terminals as an add on.

Should receive next week and will update thread once I get this installed.

72B09DB6-45BD-46F6-9B6B-50263B7F694F.jpeg

Got all the materials in hand, just need to find time to do the install.

Went the Lowe’s route for the Deka - $180 out the door. This is a serious piece of kit.

Slee materials were packaged very nicely and quality looks superb.

Not the cheapest battery replacement job, but this should serve as a big improvement over OEM and a great starting point as I slowly but surely add on auxiliary components.
 
I don’t know that I have the tools/know how to properly crimp heavy gauge wires without the concern that I overcrimped and thus damaged the wire…or undercrimped and thus run the risk of it loosening and causing an issue.

Based on what I’m seeing, it seems to me I could just drill a good hole in the ends of these Amazon terminals?

Seems it would look kind of like the slee ones if I did so

4269A54D-0E0D-4399-9D7D-3F1F56E7E242.jpeg


FE01AE18-DD4D-447E-BA38-4609F18690DF.png
 
^Not a bad idea. I like it!
 
I don’t know that I have the tools/know how to properly crimp heavy gauge wires without the concern that I overcrimped and thus damaged the wire…or undercrimped and thus run the risk of it loosening and causing an issue.

Based on what I’m seeing, it seems to me I could just drill a good hole in the ends of these Amazon terminals?

Seems it would look kind of like the slee ones if I did so

View attachment 3235521

View attachment 3235522
Just remember that the ends of the slee terminals are cut down so the OEM terminal clip fits onto it. In a perfect world you’d shape the end similarly and tap or drill a hole. Or modify the terminal clip thing.
 
How about one of these and trimming one side off. Or bonus points you could get one of these and then thread in a top post adapter and use the OEM terminals,

ILL Customz 8 Spot Battery Terminal Distribution Block 8AWG up to 4/0(XL) Lug Style Bolt Down Post Heavy Duty Electrical Grade Aluminum Pair

https://a.co/d/f0mCqQo
 
I don’t know that I have the tools/know how to properly crimp heavy gauge wires without the concern that I overcrimped and thus damaged the wire…or undercrimped and thus run the risk of it loosening and causing an issue.

Based on what I’m seeing, it seems to me I could just drill a good hole in the ends of these Amazon terminals?

Seems it would look kind of like the slee ones if I did so

View attachment 3235521

View attachment 3235522

I did this job the other weekend with all Slee kit. Not cheap, but extremely high quality materials. Very easy to do yourself if you buy all the Slee kit and follow instructions.

I would say if you’re concerned about your ability to do the job, purchasing kit that is not specifically designed for the 200 series bay will probably make your life a lot harder. It is a very tight fit, the Slee materials fit perfectly with no margin for error/need to modify anything, and anything else would probably require a lot of fabbing, which it sounds like you are trying to avoid.

B9606652-568E-4690-AD62-58E12F481F85.jpeg
 
I did this job the other weekend with all Slee kit. Not cheap, but extremely high quality materials. Very easy to do yourself if you buy all the Slee kit and follow instructions.

I would say if you’re concerned about your ability to do the job, purchasing kit that is not specifically designed for the 200 series bay will probably make your life a lot harder. It is a very tight fit, the Slee materials fit perfectly with no margin for error/need to modify anything, and anything else would probably require a lot of fabbing, which it sounds like you are trying to avoid.

View attachment 3235742
You probably already did this, but I'll add my usual entreaty to cover the positive terminal with some sort of electrical insulation. It be can easily and inadvertently shorted to ground. Increasing risk in you case, that beautiful stainless hold down plate bolted to the radiator support is one giant exposed ground now, mere inches from the positive terminal block.
 
You probably already did this, but I'll add my usual entreaty to cover the positive terminal with some sort of electrical insulation. It be can easily and inadvertently shorted to ground. Increasing risk in you case, that beautiful stainless hold down plate bolted to the radiator support is one giant exposed ground now, mere inches from the positive terminal block.

Thanks. I have a cover on it from Slee, just not pictured here.
 
Would this be likely to work as a terminal clamp extender for 31 battery?

3C2953BB-8451-4B3D-B27D-48A42EDEB234.png
 
Or perhaps this one?

D54BF8EA-BB78-471B-B04B-500BD10800E9.png
 

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