Homebrew FIPK, K&N Drop-in Filter, Deckplate, and cleaned MAF/TB = HP!

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I'm still seeing more throttle response, but it looks like MPG's are down ~20% (15/16 MPG down to 12/13 range), but that could be to a heavy foot.

I'm going to top off the tank today and see what the results are. I'll probably put the OEM intake tube back on to see if the gains are still there and see if the MPG's come back up.
 
I removed my FIPK because of the snorkel. Then I removed the drop in filter because of dust, you cant just knock the majority out while on the trail.
 
I'm still seeing more throttle response, but it looks like MPG's are down ~20% (15/16 MPG down to 12/13 range), but that could be to a heavy foot.

I'm going to top off the tank today and see what the results are. I'll probably put the OEM intake tube back on to see if the gains are still there and see if the MPG's come back up.

wouldn't your loss in MPGs be more related to the higher air flow? it was my understanding that the more air that passes over a MAF sensor, the more fuel it dumps to accommodate the new air:fuel ratio, thus the increase in power and loss in MPGs.
 
wouldn't your loss in MPGs be more related to the higher air flow? it was my understanding that the more air that passes over a MAF sensor, the more fuel it dumps to accommodate the new air:fuel ratio, thus the increase in power and loss in MPGs.

Simply put, not really.

Airflow is regulated by the Throttle Body. Based on MAF sensor output, the ECU will adjust timing of the fuel injectors to match the stochiometric mix, which is also based on a ton of other sensors.

If you are making more power at the same throttle position, then you are taking in more air, and the ECU is delivering more fuel, so in part, yes, you are right.

However, if you drive the same, the idea is that you go by seat of the pants and not gas pedal location. If it feels the same and the pedal is not pressed quite as far, then you're running a slightly higher airflow and fuel count than what you did before, but your RPMs are lower, therefore consuming less fuel for the given amount of power you need and the duration that the throttle is pressed.

Make sense? Since the engine can make the same power at a lower RPM (on acceleration, not at steady speeds), there are less combustion chamber detonations per minute, and that offsets the slight amount of extra fuel per combustion that you are using compared to the stock configuration. On the highway at steady speeds, the RPM's are set. The higher airflow number helps here because to maintain the speed, you only depress the pedel enough to keep you going. If you're making more power at a given RPM, you essentially back off the pedal to the new "balance point" to maintain your speed. Doing so closed the butterfly plate in the TB ever so slightly, also reducing the CFM of air through the intake ever so slightly. The MAF senses this and makes a fuel correction accordingly, thereby using less fuel.

Works in theory. Didn't work in real life for this application.

In other words, the intake tube is not the "bottleneck" to fuel efficiency.
 
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I just know I'm glad I took the FIPK off before making trips to the rockies, my head would hurt going up those passes
 
Filled up tonight. 209.2 miles adjusted distance. 15.6 gallons. Calculated MPG of 13.4 - a drop of ~2 MPG from "normal".

I put the stock intake back on after fillup, so I'm going to see what that does to the numbers. Noise is greatly reduced even with the deckplate open. Throttle response is still much improved over stock, but not *quite* as good as with the stock intake by my seat-o-the-pants meter. The mean sounds are gone, and that's the biggest difference, though.
 
Filled up tonight. 209.2 miles adjusted distance. 15.6 gallons. Calculated MPG of 13.4 - a drop of ~2 MPG from "normal".

I put the stock intake back on after fillup, so I'm going to see what that does to the numbers. Noise is greatly reduced even with the deckplate open. Throttle response is still much improved over stock, but not *quite* as good as with the stock intake by my seat-o-the-pants meter. The mean sounds are gone, and that's the biggest difference, though.

Whatever happened with this? Did installing your stock intake tube bring the MPG back up?
 
Whatever happened with this? Did installing your stock intake tube bring the MPG back up?

X2, I'm also interested in hearing about this.
 
Actually, I put the stock intake back on and the MPG's didn't really come up all that much.

I eventually cleaned the MAF and it popped right back up. I fell victim to the K&N oil carryover.

I've had the OEM setup in w/ the K&N for a while now and clean the MAF once a month. Now that I know that the oil is the issue with MPG's, I'm going to put the intake back on and see what happens...
 
Actually, I put the stock intake back on and the MPG's didn't really come up all that much.

I eventually cleaned the MAF and it popped right back up. I fell victim to the K&N oil carryover.

I've had the OEM setup in w/ the K&N for a while now and clean the MAF once a month. Now that I know that the oil is the issue with MPG's, I'm going to put the intake back on and see what happens...

is there a MAF sensor cleaning procedure that you use? a little electroclean on a lint-free cloth?
 
I just get the Throttle Body and MAF cleaner (like carb cleaner) in an aerosol can. Open the air filter box, pull it up so that you can see the MAF, then spray away. I let it dry while I pull the intake off the TB and hold the butterfly valve open while I spray it down.

I have NEVER touched anything at all to the MAF. I've heard the horror stories of damage, so I just spray it off.
 
I just get the Throttle Body and MAF cleaner (like carb cleaner) in an aerosol can. Open the air filter box, pull it up so that you can see the MAF, then spray away. I let it dry while I pull the intake off the TB and hold the butterfly valve open while I spray it down.

I have NEVER touched anything at all to the MAF. I've heard the horror stories of damage, so I just spray it off.

Thanks bama. Did you have any visible oil/dirt on your sensor and could you see that it was more clean when it dried?
 
Not at all. No visible indication. Probably just a light sheen of oil from the K&N would be my guess. Damn K&N... :D
 
Not at all. No visible indication. Probably just a light sheen of oil from the K&N would be my guess. **** K&N... :D

Ya, I'm still undecided on the K&N. I understand the oil deposition problem and the questionable filtration. However... i think data has been posted here about there being a 0.75" of pressure drop across a paper filter vs 0.00" drop across the K&N. That's a 2.5% increase in manifold pressure!
 
Ya, I'm still undecided on the K&N. I understand the oil deposition problem and the questionable filtration. However... i think data has been posted here about there being a 0.75" of pressure drop across a paper filter vs 0.00" drop across the K&N. That's a 2.5% increase in manifold pressure!

It's in my original post of this thread. I don't know where you got 2.5% from, but going from 0 pressure drop to 0.75" is a LOT considering that you're pulling a vacuum using the engine.

I put the stainless intake back on and there is a difference for sure in performance. I cleaned the MAF (with MAF cleaner) and the TB (with TB cleaner) and I'll top off tonight. I'll see what the MPG's do over the next few weeks and post up results.
 
Where did you purchase the stainless pipe and rubber elbows and deckplate?

Also, did you install the DT headers?

I am thinking deckplate plus headers is going to be fun!

Ever thought of cutting holes below the headlight to allow direct air flow into deck plate hole for normal dry operation for even more airflow? Deck plate could be reinstalled during 4wheeling conditions. See example below.

Started a new thread.
duct under headlight.JPG
 
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just to add my 2 cents.
-i put in the k&n about a year ago. didnt know anything about the maf getting fouled. just ran it for a year mainly city driving, so never really paid attention to mpgs. just filled it once a week. ended up on a job site about 30 highway miles out of town. took 1/3 of a tank there and back???? wtf? like 8mpg...hwy??? i do have 325/75's @ 50psi and the ome lift but wtf? after a bit of searching i figured out it may be the fouling. pull the maf and woah. it looked like two rat turds. huge ones. no cel. (the t.b. was also filthy, lots of visible dirt and oil) so i cleaned it w/ the spray and swapped in new plugs. now i get around ~280 miles to a tank on the hwy. so 13mpgs. waay better. screw the k&N. now i just feel bad for telling everyone i know how great they are.
 
Ever thought of cutting holes below the headlight to allow direct air flow into deck plate hole for normal dry operation for even more airflow? Deck plate could be reinstalled during 4wheeling conditions. See example below.

Started a new thread.

Just go through the light, it's a straighter line. :)
 
The stainless pipe is actually 304L Stainless Steel sanitary process tubing that is used in industrial food/bev manufacturing operations (anything ~3" outside diameter and thin walled will work). We had some scrap at work, so I put it to good use. Rubber coupling and elbow came from Lowes in their plumbing section.
 
The stainless pipe is actually 304L Stainless Steel sanitary process tubing that is used in industrial food/bev manufacturing operations (anything ~3" outside diameter and thin walled will work). We had some scrap at work, so I put it to good use. Rubber coupling and elbow came from Lowes in their plumbing section.

I have a bunch at work too. Can you get me the exact length that you used to cut down on my R&D time? :)
 

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