Home engine swap for a diesel with 5 speed gbox and part-time transfer

Joined
Oct 8, 2011
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Toronto, NSW, Australia
If I ever can save enough dosh for a replacement to my 80's original 1hz motor (currently at 686 k km's) this year I'm considering the option of doing the swap at home as I have an engine hoist if I can't line up a local shop to do it. I don't have any access to a workshop/garage/shed of my own or a vehicle lift. I know the gearbox alone is at least 100 kg so it and the transfer will be about 150 kg.

For anyone who's done an engine swap at home, how did you go about seperating the gearbox and the motor? Did you take off the transfer case first, then the box, or drop the two out as a complete assembly? My 80 has a h150f box and the hf1a (part time) transfer case.

If I do an engine swap I want to also sort out the clutch. I'm currently running a Clutch Industries '4 Terrain' heavy duty clutch but I've never been fully happy with it and might go back to a factory clutch but (presuming I go for a 1hdt or 1hdft motor) go for the bigger clutch and use the method to adapt this for the h150f gearbox using the Isuzu plate 8-97389910-0.

When putting in the replacement motor - what sort of methods can be used to support it at the back when trying to re-mate it to the gearbox? The engine hoist would probably do it once the front of the motor is supported on the proper mounts.

All the work would be done fully outdoors since I have no garage and the carport is not high enough for a big 4wd to fit under and give some weather protection.

Craig.
 

mudgudgeon

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Dec 17, 2007
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Across the pond, and upside down
I've pulled engines out of cruisers a couple of times at home.

You can leave the gear box and transfer case bolted together, and in the car.

There's a couple of ways I've dealt with the gearbox.

Last time I took an engine out, I unbolted the gear box cross member and lowered the back of the gear box with a jack. This was done to make it easier to get at bell housing bolts from behind the gear box.
You need a couple of long extension bars and a swivel/universal joint socket extension to get past the gearbox, and get the ratchet handled in a spot where you can turn it
Take all bolts out except two at the side.
Jack the cross member back up and bolt it back in.

Pull the radiator, shroud, fan, radiator support cross bar etc.

When you lift the engine, lift it using the factory lifting lugs on the head. I use a bit of chain, and a few D shackles. Use a shackle at the centre point works well to lift the engine up level.
you only need to lift the engine enough to get clear of engine mount bolts. This will lift the gearbox a bit too. Once you're clear of the engine mounts put a jack under the front of the gearbox, take the last couple of bolts out of the bell housing, and use a pry bar to separate the engine from the gearbox. Once you've separated it a bit, pull the hoist forward away from the car, and wriggle it a bit too keep things moving. You only need to move the engine 59-75mm to get it separatedv from the input shaft.

It's not too difficult, just a bit heavy and awkward.
 
Joined
May 26, 2008
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568
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Leduc County, AB
I used a tree, a pulley and a winch. Then pull the carcass back with a car.
 
Joined
Oct 8, 2011
Messages
983
Location
Toronto, NSW, Australia
Thx gives me hope once I fund up for a replacement motor unless I give up due to the body rust and just look for another vehicle entirely.

I wasn't sure about getting the gbox/transfer and motor seperated. I guess renewing/inspecting the clutch is easy with motor out.
 

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