- Thread starter
- #41
it's a metter of can'tada
the border is a massive problem here.thanks for the links. i will see if i can get a reasonable shipping quote tomorrow.
hockey hundy build
- Thread starter semlin
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it's a metter of can'tada
the border is a massive problem here.thanks for the links. i will see if i can get a reasonable shipping quote tomorrow.
So we couldn't USPS the bushings to you and avoid the big $ mess from retailer to Canada customer?
Yes we could. I've reshipped stuff to Simon many times and would be happy to do so again. The only downside to this approach is speed; as soon as the parcel crosses the border it gets swallowed up by Canada Post. It might take a week to get to Simon from there, or three weeks. Priority Mail is a waste of money because of this.
Using UPS or FedEx engenders horrific paperwork and brokerage fees.
Using UPS or FedEx engenders horrific paperwork and brokerage fees.
- Thread starter
- #44
sean has indeed done it many times. with a few exceptions things have to go usps here to avoid an extra broker charge from the courier company of $25-50 if customs pulls it for inspection. most us vendors do not know this and also charge high rates to begin with. i use a drop ship address at the border but it is a long drive and you pay 12% tax at the border plus duty based on country of origin.
overall it is depressing how much canadians pay in unreasonable and unnnecessary charges for the privilege of purchasing goods they can't find in canada anyway or for which they are gouged if they do.
overall it is depressing how much canadians pay in unreasonable and unnnecessary charges for the privilege of purchasing goods they can't find in canada anyway or for which they are gouged if they do.
I set us up with an AES (Automated Export System) account at work because we ship to Canada, and the rest of the world an a daily basis. It eliminates all the brokerage fees when shipping UPS, Fed-X or DHL, not much relief as far as paper work goes. I'm not sure if I could use it to ship personal stuff.
I haven't used the system since I set it up years ago and trained the shipping guy. I'll talk to him later and see if it is possible.
I haven't used the system since I set it up years ago and trained the shipping guy. I'll talk to him later and see if it is possible.
- Thread starter
- #46
just got two lexus key blanks cut at the locksmith. bought them off "vehiclevisions" on ebay for $8.50 each. they are either oem or very good knock offs. much better quality than the non-original key i have with proper gilding on the "L".
anyway, i take them to the locksmith down the street. he grumbles that he "hates" doing these then cuts them both in under 5 minutes on a machine on the counter. then he charges me $80. i ask wtf. he says "that's cheaper than the dealer". then he tells me they may not work because they are supposed to be laser cut. jebus.
anyway, i take them to the locksmith down the street. he grumbles that he "hates" doing these then cuts them both in under 5 minutes on a machine on the counter. then he charges me $80. i ask wtf. he says "that's cheaper than the dealer". then he tells me they may not work because they are supposed to be laser cut. jebus.
Home Depot cuts mine for no charge. I bring them a blank and since they're not selling me any key blank they always just shrug their shoulders and say "no charge".
1/2 way (no really
) makes up for all the other times Home Depot frustrates me...
1/2 way (no really
) makes up for all the other times Home Depot frustrates me...
The LX key, being an inside cut key, is a bit nice because it doesn't wear down as easily as an outside cut key. Those outside edges rub against other keys, coins and such. But it's a moot point since the plastic key fob breaks far before the key has a chance to wear down.
FWIW, there's a couple vendors on eBay that will pre-cut (2) Lexus keys (to code) for $37/delivered (US).
FWIW, there's a couple vendors on eBay that will pre-cut (2) Lexus keys (to code) for $37/delivered (US).
In 13+ years I've never broken a LX key, or the LS keys for that matter.
http://www.advancedkeys.com
This keyless entry and start system has been out for 2-3 years and by all accounts I've read, seem to be rock solid. I believe the steering lock mechanism has to be disabled for use with this. So would the Advanced Key be more reliable than our existing mechanical key with the vulnerable ignition rod/cylinder?
This keyless entry and start system has been out for 2-3 years and by all accounts I've read, seem to be rock solid. I believe the steering lock mechanism has to be disabled for use with this. So would the Advanced Key be more reliable than our existing mechanical key with the vulnerable ignition rod/cylinder?
- Thread starter
- #54
i did the plugs. the ds rear ones are a pita. i dropped two sockets and two bolts. recovered one of each. i think the others are on the engine mount somewhere.
i don't suppose i am supposed to gave a shop rug under the intake plenum?
i don't suppose i am supposed to gave a shop rug under the intake plenum?
- Thread starter
- #55
so how hard should it be to crank a torsion adjustment bolt?
i've installed the yooper stock lc tbars and a replacement adjustment bolt/anchor swivel on the bad side. i followed the procedure in the "ultimate tbar thread" that says to force the anchor arm tbar receiver side up high against the frame with the anchor bolt minimally threaded when you install the tbar to maximize the angle of the anchor arm available height adjustment. basically i have maximized the gap "b" below but am finding it really work hard to get to "a". with the wheel off and up in the air, the adjustment bolt turns but i really have to reef on the thing and an air-gun will only turn it in short turns.
i feel like i am just trying to force the anchor arm into the frame. is this normal?
i have now belated read the slee install guide and seen the 5 spline offset between the tbar ends suggestion there. my guess is that i have more offset than that. should i reset the tbar?
i've installed the yooper stock lc tbars and a replacement adjustment bolt/anchor swivel on the bad side. i followed the procedure in the "ultimate tbar thread" that says to force the anchor arm tbar receiver side up high against the frame with the anchor bolt minimally threaded when you install the tbar to maximize the angle of the anchor arm available height adjustment. basically i have maximized the gap "b" below but am finding it really work hard to get to "a". with the wheel off and up in the air, the adjustment bolt turns but i really have to reef on the thing and an air-gun will only turn it in short turns.
i feel like i am just trying to force the anchor arm into the frame. is this normal?
i have now belated read the slee install guide and seen the 5 spline offset between the tbar ends suggestion there. my guess is that i have more offset than that. should i reset the tbar?