HJ60 A/C wiring question...

Dec 27, 2004
Dallas, TX
I have begun my A/C conversion for my HJ60 and I have hit a wall with the wiring. I am having trouble identifying that each plug does and where it goes. I'm going to use a 24V A/C amplifier to avoid having to re-wire that. However, I will be using a 24V-12V converter for the Evap, compressor, and A/C switch.

I put together a diagram, but I don't know which prongs I am supposed to connect.

So far, I believe this is what each prong does:

A: Power from A/C Switch
B: No Idea
C: No Idea
D: Power to Compressor
E: Power from source
F: Power to source

Below are pictures of the actual plugs from the evap case. This looks like it is connected to some sort of solonoid shown in picture 3:

And the A/C switch:

Below is a picture of the second plug on the evap case. I can not figure out what it does and doesn't look very important. I left it off the diagram because I think it may be a thermometer to avoid freezing of the core, which is worthless in Texas.

Mar 31, 2004
well here is my best guess... I beleive that b and c are the pressure switch which will open/close the circuit to the AC amplifier which in turn controls the clutch, this switch will open if the pressure is too low and not let the compressor engage if there is no refrigerant in the system.

I am pretty sure that the one connection on the evaporator is a temperature sensor which is also connected to the AC amplifier. you might have problems with your AC if you leave this disconnected.

The other three wire line going to the evap box, I am not so sure of. My thoughts are A)flap actuator to allow the air to flow through the evaporator opposed to the heater core or B)electronically controlled TXV valve, I have never seen one but the txv valve controlles how fast the refrigerant leaves the evaporator based on temperature

I do beleive that all of these wires connect to the amplifier either on the ground or the power side. The wire that powers up the amplifier goes through the AC switch on the dash via a 10 amp fuse. "b" and "C" the low pressure switch is between the AC switch on the dash and the AC amplifier. The other wires are controlled by the AC amplifier or are input signals.

I think you would be better of using the 24v-12v convertor on the 10 amp ac fuse wire and keep everything in the AC system 12 volt that way. Every connector that you pointed out is connected to the AC amplifier and doesn't get power independdently from the battery

OR you could put the 24 volt ac amplifier in and see what happens. My only concern is what voltages it uses for the temperature sensor. Also note that the AC relay will be getting 24 volts as well as the flap actuator and low pressure switch. I am not sure how a higher voltage will affect your relays switches and actuators.

Well anyway good luck with everything and let me know how it turns out
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