HJ47 welcome here? (17 Viewers)

[Henry James the 47th]

then I drilled holes and welded captive nuts to mount the sheet metal baffle which goes atop the heater pipe feed into the cab.

I'm planning to use the tee-junctions and rear pipes from a regular 40 series as a means of heating up SVO in a separate fuel tank, and If I'm going to do that I will need to put another hole in the rear of the passenger seat well so the pipes have a convenient exit point to the rear.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

next two

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Next, welding in a reinforcing gusset for the inside of the joint between the outer rocker and side cowl piece.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

another set - fitting the gusset into place

 

[Henry James the 47th]

After the gusset was cleaned up and primered, I went and re-worked an earlier patch that was not too pretty. This one was covering the hole for the RHD parking brake, and I chopped the crummy earlier work i did out and welded in a new patch

 

[Henry James the 47th]

another piece of the floor pan puzzle out of the way

 

[Henry James the 47th]

I then worked on the myriad defects in earlier work on the floor pan, and ran out of etching primer again. I remembered to drill a couple of drainage holes with the .875" hole saw in the passenger side floor under the rocker panel sandwich (visible in the second pic.)

After that, I returned to the fun with the wiring harnesses for the remainder of the afternoon, and the pictures are surely too horrifying to show.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

More welding today, more grinding. I started with a section of the flange around the transmission opening, which was a bit punky.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

next set

 

[Henry James the 47th]

another three. After the flange piece was into primer, I cut out a couple of small sections on the floor where the welding was abysmal, and put some fresh metal into place

 

[Henry James the 47th]

three more. The floor isn't perfectly smooth or straight, but its the best I can do and I'm just so done with welding on the floor pan.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Next, I drilled a 2" hole into the dash to mount the hours meter. Then I drilled a mounting hole and tab hole for the 60 series light dimmer rheostat.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Unfortunately, I should have taken a little more care and thought about placing the rheostat, as it interferes with the aux. lighting switch that mounts in the neighboring hole. Another weld repair coming up. then I found out I was out of gas, which is really weird since i only filled the tank a few days before going on vacation.

So, I turned my attention to the wiring harness, and did some work to position the 60 series fuse panel into place. The mounting tab was pulled off the red '79 firewall I have, and is all ready for welding into place.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Looks like your making some good progress.....


Rob

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Is that provision in the wiring harness for the glow?

...here's the new Toyota ignition barrel and key set, for the 1980~81 BJ60, which has the glow-plug 'G' position I wanted. This had to come also from Australia as it was unobtainium in N. America

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Got a couple different units, old school and new, if ya want to make the drive out.

Rob

It looks like I need to source another 60 series fuse panel, as the one I have is in poor condition. There's a couple to choose from at the wrecking yard, and I think, IIRC, one of them had the new style color-coded fuses instead of the glass cylinder type, which would perhaps be an improvement (?).

I'll also need to fab up some sort of mounting solution for the relay cluster out of the 60 series - I think it can be tucked in up and to the left of the pedal box.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Edit, see your already have one.

Got a couple different units, old school and new, if ya want to make the drive out.

Rob

It looks like I need to source another 60 series fuse panel, as the one I have is in poor condition. There's a couple to choose from at the wrecking yard, and I think, IIRC, one of them had the new style color-coded fuses instead of the glass cylinder type, which would perhaps be an improvement (?).

I'll also need to fab up some sort of mounting solution for the relay cluster out of the 60 series - I think it can be tucked in up and to the left of the pedal b

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Did this same mod on the HZJ45, welding is OK, but you might want to think about running a bolt throught the tube as back up as I have seen the weld fail.

Got some time in today, mostly involving wiring. I went to the wreckers and scavenged a BJ60 wiring harness today, as it will be needed as a donor. I think I've got 5 wiring harnesses in various stages of deconstruction. I unwrapped an old BJ40 harness in the morning and pulled the 60 in the afternoon.
When I got back to the truck, I brought with me the re-machined steering coupler to the rag joint. I cut the shaft down some more with the zip wheel and then confirmed the fit to the previously machined coupler (which also had to be shortened about 3/8" on the end). I'm happy with the fit at the steering gearbox and will be welding it soon.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Thanks Rob for the encouragement. Actually, yesterday was just plain frustration and I felt pretty fed up.

Today was better. The welding supply place gave me a fresh tank of gas at no charge, acknowledging that they may have provided an unfilled tank previously. It's nice when people take you at your word like that.

I started tonight by repairing yesterday's mistake in placing the rheostat. I looked around the dash, and decided that the next best place to mount it was out in the middle, in the upper row next to the power socket/lighter

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Then I welded the lower support bar for the fuse panel into place, and did a bunch of minor weld repairs around the cab. It's pretty close to done!