Update! Well, this weekend I had some spare time and got stuck into the cruiser. The next step for the fuel tank is sort-out the filler neck. In order for me to get the orientation for that, I really needed to fab the sub-frame for the tray onto which the aluminium tray itself will mount. So, like always on this build, I decided to fold up channel sections rather than shop-bought hot-rolled sections. I made four mounting brackets out of 5mm plate which bolt onto the chassis through the factory mounts, then used 3mm for the spans between each mount. To get the mounts at the same level from front to back, I jacked up the front of the chassis until the whole chassis and cab was level, then measured the heights off a box level. This is fairly important as this subframe will have the aluminium tray made off of it. Anyway, here is what I ended up with.....
So, with that fabricated and tacked together, I sorted out the filler neck's location in regards to the sub-frame and scalloped it to suit the tank. So, I wasted no time in fitting it then welding it to the tank. With the tank being made from aluminium, I wasn't too keen on welding the fuel line and breather tubes to the tank, so I have decided to have the fuel outlet (fuel line), breather tubes and level sender all mounted to a stainless plate which is bolted to the top of the tank. This way, if I have to make modifications to the fuel system and level sender at a later time, all I need to do is make another plate with all the additional things on it and I don't need to stuff with the tank itself. Anyway, here is the tank lid with hatch tacked on..
Underneath the lid for the tank, around the hatch, I welded a 6mm plate, which is tapped to suit M6X 1MM threads for the hatch plate. With the lid tacked on, it was time to weld the tank up! For this, I used the TIG, as it has a much nicer finish and weld quality than the MIG, and also allows me to run a smaller, nicer bead especially on the ends, where I am wanting it to look nicest.
I used 3.2mm wire on the top, mainly because where the lid joins to the tank the pressed radius is wide enough for a nice wide weld bead.
For the ends, I used a 2.4mm tungsten and ground it down to roughly 1.8 and used 1.6mm filler wire to create the small fillet weld I wanted