- Thread starter
- #121
More pictures of working on the body
HJ45 (2H motor) complete vehicle rebuild thread
- Thread starter vincent85
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
RufusTheDufus
SILVER Star
Don't worry about stainless for the fuel line fittings. Diesel fuel will keep mild steel from rusting on the inside and a coat of paint on the outside will be fine.
Will you have two fuel gauges?
Will you have two fuel gauges?
RufusTheDufus
SILVER Star
I just looked at the diagram for the fuel fill. that's an awful lot of big threaded fittings. They will tend to seep. Also, I learned this the hard way on my tank, diesel doesn't like to flow well on 90 degree bends. It foams up as the fuel pump is dispensing the fuel. Those foam bubbles are going to want to rise back up the filler neck. The end result will be that you will have to fill the tank very slowly. You might not even be able to fill the tank with the large diameter diesel pump nozzle because they don't/won't slow down enough and you'll have fuel foaming back up the fill tube on you.
If you're positive that's the direction you want to go it might be easier and cheaper to use some 2" aluminum intercooler piping and have someone weld the "T" for you. I'll weld it for you when I get home. That and some diesel compatible fuel filler hose and you will have a better/more reliable setup.
If you're positive that's the direction you want to go it might be easier and cheaper to use some 2" aluminum intercooler piping and have someone weld the "T" for you. I'll weld it for you when I get home. That and some diesel compatible fuel filler hose and you will have a better/more reliable setup.
- Thread starter
- #124
I already bought all the steel fittings they are being shipped. I do plan on using two gauges. I have a second FJ40 fuel sender that I could use. I mocked it up in the Jeep auxiliary tank and it will work. I just have to figure out what gauge I want to go with. I like autometer and would want to match the other gauges I have. I am assuming I could just adapt that to the FJ40 fuel sender, right?
I already ordered some 2" fuel line hose from NAPA, I have like 9 feet worth, which should be enough for what I am doing. With what you are saying considering I already ordered the steel hardware, not sure where to go from there with my 90 degree bends.
I already ordered some 2" fuel line hose from NAPA, I have like 9 feet worth, which should be enough for what I am doing. With what you are saying considering I already ordered the steel hardware, not sure where to go from there with my 90 degree bends.
RufusTheDufus
SILVER Star
Test it out to see if it works to your liking.
9 feet of hose?! Why so much? Why not 2" rigid tube with the hose as connectors between sections.
Have you ever done any home remodeling plumbing? Drains, waste, vent type of stuff?
9 feet of hose?! Why so much? Why not 2" rigid tube with the hose as connectors between sections.
Have you ever done any home remodeling plumbing? Drains, waste, vent type of stuff?
RufusTheDufus
SILVER Star
BTW, if the simultaneous suction thing doesn't work out for you it's easy enough to install a transfer pump. A high quality pump will only set you back $30 to $50.
- Thread starter
- #127
My friend thinks I will need allot of this 2" fuel line. We talked about running the fuel line straight across. We came up with a good solid plan, but I am thinking I might only use about half of that at best, but I can return what I don't use or use the rest as spares. The longest piece which runs from the fill neck t I am putting in to the bend to the fill point of the auxiliary tank can easily be 2" steel pipe. I agree 100%.
I have not done allot of plumbing per say, I have setup a air compressor setup in my Jeep for my air lockers/air line before. I spent most my life in the Army until I was retired medically in 2013 so plumbing was not a skill I needed overseas
.I agree if the simultaneous suction system does not work, which it should in theory I can easily install a transfer pump for little cost as you said. My plan for the fuel gauge for the auxiliary tank is to use a stock FJ40 sending unit and wire it to a universal Autometer fuel gauge. Think of any issue with that setup?
Last edited:
RufusTheDufus
SILVER Star
The universal autometer will support the stock Jeep sender. No need to swap it to an FJ40.
I only asked about the plumbing experience because there are some handy rules about pipe sizes, flow rates and amount of pitch to maintain flow with/without venting.
I only asked about the plumbing experience because there are some handy rules about pipe sizes, flow rates and amount of pitch to maintain flow with/without venting.
- Thread starter
- #129
Thanks, I private messaged your back
Also that is good news about the stock TJ unit. I will have to try that out, that could save some fabrication.
Also that is good news about the stock TJ unit. I will have to try that out, that could save some fabrication.
- Thread starter
- #130
Update:
It has been a busy few weeks. I am in the process of heading to Florida tomorrow until March 4th for medical treatment at the VA clinic and to attend to some personal affairs. I will not be working on the Land Cruiser during this time. I have had allot accomplished since my last update.
I installed the front/rear bumpers (few pieces left on the rear bumper left), winch, mounted the engine/transmission/transfer case, mocked up the rear auxiliary gas tank location and design, installed the new Bosch alternator, started assembling some miscellaneous parts to be completed on the engine, ordered and received new lines for the fuel/air/brake systems, started installing the power steering system on the engine, and allot of other misc work.
The next month I will be focusing on the power steering system, steering linkage, welding in new floor plans, welding damage underneath the body, installing the rear auxiliary tank/fabricated skid plate, install newly ordered drive shafts, and finishing up the loose ends on the engine.
Below are some pictures of the progress thus far.
It has been a busy few weeks. I am in the process of heading to Florida tomorrow until March 4th for medical treatment at the VA clinic and to attend to some personal affairs. I will not be working on the Land Cruiser during this time. I have had allot accomplished since my last update.
I installed the front/rear bumpers (few pieces left on the rear bumper left), winch, mounted the engine/transmission/transfer case, mocked up the rear auxiliary gas tank location and design, installed the new Bosch alternator, started assembling some miscellaneous parts to be completed on the engine, ordered and received new lines for the fuel/air/brake systems, started installing the power steering system on the engine, and allot of other misc work.
The next month I will be focusing on the power steering system, steering linkage, welding in new floor plans, welding damage underneath the body, installing the rear auxiliary tank/fabricated skid plate, install newly ordered drive shafts, and finishing up the loose ends on the engine.
Below are some pictures of the progress thus far.
- Thread starter
- #131
The rest of the pictures
Michael B
SILVER Star
Looking good!
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 583
- Messages
- 16,394
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
When you finish it bring it out to a meet-up, I'm looking forwards to seeing it!
- Thread starter
- #134
What meet up?
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 583
- Messages
- 16,394
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
Check out the Florida page in the Clubhouse section, we don't have one scheduled but there will be one soon.
I was in Melbourne on Wednesday paddle boarding with my family!
I was in Melbourne on Wednesday paddle boarding with my family!
- Thread starter
- #136
Allot has happened since my last update, I have been extremely busy getting the Land Cruiser finished for the start of my journey this summer through America, Alaska, and Baja.
Since the last update I have completed, but not limited to the following (I may have forget to list a few things, I lost track of every little task that was completed, especially considering the size of the project).
- Installed the second alternator, to complete the dual alternator setup
- Installed the air-to-air intercooler for the turbo
- Installed the Donaldson air filter box
- Relocated the power steering pump and power steering box
- Fabricated and welded on custom steel front/rear fenders and rocker rails
- Installed the disc brakes/brake lines
- Installed a heavy duty pull fan behind the radiator and two smaller push fans in front air-to-air intercooler which is mounted in front of the radiator
- I upgraded the stock lug studs, to larger lug studs. I was not getting allot of thread engagement on my stock ones.
- Since the front grille did not fit with the air-to-air intercooler I had to completely make a custom front end, which is almost complete. I used stronger perforated sheet metal instead of the weaker stock Toyota grille and made the front end much more robust (Almost complete).
- Installed the two front seats
- Installed the Tuffy locking center console
- Installed hidden line locks, which are valves used to lock in the hydraulic pressure in the brake lines, which act as an e-brake.
- Installed the rear turn signals/brake lights
- Installed a Delphi water/sediment filter
What is left to complete the vehicle (estimated finish build time is June)
- Build the roll cage in the vehicle and fabricate a overhead center console on it
- Build the sleep platform in the rear (Plan to make it fold up into a bench type system)
- Install the air compressor system. I am using a 5 gallon air tank, ARB twin air compressor, and air reel. This will be used to supply my ARB air lockers in my axles with pressurized air and to supply my air reel with pressurized air for air tools/inflating my tires. All these systems will be tied into an air distribution block that I made, which you can see in one of the pictures.
- Install a hidden fuel cut off valve
- Install a hidden electric cut off switch
- Finish the rust repair on the two front doors, hood, two rear ambulance doors, and mid-body sections.
- Mount the roof and roof rack. I will probably mount the roof rack through the fiber glass top into the roll cage. This will provide allot of strength considering the roll cage is tied into the frame. I will probably lay another layer of fiber glass underneath the fiberglass top as well for strength and rigidity. I am also going to mount my solar shower (A 5 gallon cylinder that can be pressurized with air with a hose to take a shower with) and Maxtrax sand boards (used to put under your tires when you are stuck to gain traction) on the roof rack.
- Install an oil catch can for the turbo
- Install all the electrical systems (Autometer gauges, interior LED lights, wiring harness, switches, relays, mount the two auxiliary Optima yellow tops in their trays in a fabricated box in the rear, mount the main Optima red top in its tray in a fabricated box in the rear, marine stereo system, switch box, CB radio, ARB fridge, mount the front off-road lights (Light Force 35W HID, mount rear off-road lights (Hella 550’s), and front turn signals.
- Fill the transmission/transfer case with fresh fluid and install a bypass hose between the two cases.
- Fabricate and mount the rear auxiliary skid plate, transmission/transfer case skid plate, and the sump skid plate. (The rear auxiliary skid plate is complete, but is being modified due to a fitment issue).
- Mount recently purchased second fill neck near the stock fill neck position. I will have two fill necks, one for the main tank and one for the auxiliary tank.
- Install the fuel lines for the main/auxiliary gas tanks
- I have a shop that is installing the exhaust/muffler for free (I plan on using the same snorkel exhaust system I used in my Jeep, the exhaust will come up on the side of the vehicle and will be level to my intake snorkel in height). I am going to use some of the perforated sheet steel and wrap it around the exhaust to act as a heat shield.
- The intake snorkel is complete; it just needs a few welds to complete the setup. I used mandrel bent tubes for this, to prevent air flow restriction.
- Install limb risers (Lines going from the roof rack to the front bumper, which break up vegetation).
- Install the rear bumper, put on the spare tire, and put in the four jerry cans (two blue 5 gallon water cans and two yellow 5 gallon diesel cans).
- I have a shop that is installing the side windows, front windshield, and tinting all the windows in the vehicle for free.
- I am going to create exterior window guards for the four side windows and the two rear ambulance doors. I will use steel round stock and perforated sheet steel.
- I am going to install Master hasp shackle locks on both driver/passenger doors and the two rear ambulance doors. This will make it extremely hard when the vehicle is left unattended to physically break the doors open or pick the locks.
- Install drive shafts
- Complete miscellaneous body installation and misc items (Install door handles, door locks, seat belts, door windows, etc). I had a company completely restore the stock vehicle data tag, which I am going to mount on my glove box door.
- Paint the mid-section body pieces, hood, windshield frame, doors, and fiberglass top.
- Once the fabrication/paint is complete I will be having most of the entire tub and front fenders line-x for free by a friend who operates a line-x shop. The already did the interior, but they damaged the body in the process, so they are redoing the interior and the rest tub/fenders.
Since the last update I have completed, but not limited to the following (I may have forget to list a few things, I lost track of every little task that was completed, especially considering the size of the project).
- Installed the second alternator, to complete the dual alternator setup
- Installed the air-to-air intercooler for the turbo
- Installed the Donaldson air filter box
- Relocated the power steering pump and power steering box
- Fabricated and welded on custom steel front/rear fenders and rocker rails
- Installed the disc brakes/brake lines
- Installed a heavy duty pull fan behind the radiator and two smaller push fans in front air-to-air intercooler which is mounted in front of the radiator
- I upgraded the stock lug studs, to larger lug studs. I was not getting allot of thread engagement on my stock ones.
- Since the front grille did not fit with the air-to-air intercooler I had to completely make a custom front end, which is almost complete. I used stronger perforated sheet metal instead of the weaker stock Toyota grille and made the front end much more robust (Almost complete).
- Installed the two front seats
- Installed the Tuffy locking center console
- Installed hidden line locks, which are valves used to lock in the hydraulic pressure in the brake lines, which act as an e-brake.
- Installed the rear turn signals/brake lights
- Installed a Delphi water/sediment filter
What is left to complete the vehicle (estimated finish build time is June)
- Build the roll cage in the vehicle and fabricate a overhead center console on it
- Build the sleep platform in the rear (Plan to make it fold up into a bench type system)
- Install the air compressor system. I am using a 5 gallon air tank, ARB twin air compressor, and air reel. This will be used to supply my ARB air lockers in my axles with pressurized air and to supply my air reel with pressurized air for air tools/inflating my tires. All these systems will be tied into an air distribution block that I made, which you can see in one of the pictures.
- Install a hidden fuel cut off valve
- Install a hidden electric cut off switch
- Finish the rust repair on the two front doors, hood, two rear ambulance doors, and mid-body sections.
- Mount the roof and roof rack. I will probably mount the roof rack through the fiber glass top into the roll cage. This will provide allot of strength considering the roll cage is tied into the frame. I will probably lay another layer of fiber glass underneath the fiberglass top as well for strength and rigidity. I am also going to mount my solar shower (A 5 gallon cylinder that can be pressurized with air with a hose to take a shower with) and Maxtrax sand boards (used to put under your tires when you are stuck to gain traction) on the roof rack.
- Install an oil catch can for the turbo
- Install all the electrical systems (Autometer gauges, interior LED lights, wiring harness, switches, relays, mount the two auxiliary Optima yellow tops in their trays in a fabricated box in the rear, mount the main Optima red top in its tray in a fabricated box in the rear, marine stereo system, switch box, CB radio, ARB fridge, mount the front off-road lights (Light Force 35W HID, mount rear off-road lights (Hella 550’s), and front turn signals.
- Fill the transmission/transfer case with fresh fluid and install a bypass hose between the two cases.
- Fabricate and mount the rear auxiliary skid plate, transmission/transfer case skid plate, and the sump skid plate. (The rear auxiliary skid plate is complete, but is being modified due to a fitment issue).
- Mount recently purchased second fill neck near the stock fill neck position. I will have two fill necks, one for the main tank and one for the auxiliary tank.
- Install the fuel lines for the main/auxiliary gas tanks
- I have a shop that is installing the exhaust/muffler for free (I plan on using the same snorkel exhaust system I used in my Jeep, the exhaust will come up on the side of the vehicle and will be level to my intake snorkel in height). I am going to use some of the perforated sheet steel and wrap it around the exhaust to act as a heat shield.
- The intake snorkel is complete; it just needs a few welds to complete the setup. I used mandrel bent tubes for this, to prevent air flow restriction.
- Install limb risers (Lines going from the roof rack to the front bumper, which break up vegetation).
- Install the rear bumper, put on the spare tire, and put in the four jerry cans (two blue 5 gallon water cans and two yellow 5 gallon diesel cans).
- I have a shop that is installing the side windows, front windshield, and tinting all the windows in the vehicle for free.
- I am going to create exterior window guards for the four side windows and the two rear ambulance doors. I will use steel round stock and perforated sheet steel.
- I am going to install Master hasp shackle locks on both driver/passenger doors and the two rear ambulance doors. This will make it extremely hard when the vehicle is left unattended to physically break the doors open or pick the locks.
- Install drive shafts
- Complete miscellaneous body installation and misc items (Install door handles, door locks, seat belts, door windows, etc). I had a company completely restore the stock vehicle data tag, which I am going to mount on my glove box door.
- Paint the mid-section body pieces, hood, windshield frame, doors, and fiberglass top.
- Once the fabrication/paint is complete I will be having most of the entire tub and front fenders line-x for free by a friend who operates a line-x shop. The already did the interior, but they damaged the body in the process, so they are redoing the interior and the rest tub/fenders.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #137
Pics #2
- Thread starter
- #138
Pics #3
- Thread starter
- #139
Pics #4
- Thread starter
- #140
Pics #5
