HJ45 (2H motor) complete vehicle rebuild thread

[vincent85]

I just got the body back after it was sand blasted/epoxy primered.

Here is what I am thinking generically my plan is to get this body ready to be top coated (doing myself as well) and put back on the frame, but I need information from anyone on here that has done extensive body work with good results or can fill me in on details that I may be missing or need to do from their knowledge or experience.

1. Cut and weld in pieces of new sheet steel in large surface areas (Such as the floor plans)

2. For the inner part of the tub and underneath the tub I was going to fiberglass mat/resin any damage, sand down, and the top/underneath of the tub line-x afterwards. I have a buddy that works at a line-x shop that is going to give me a incredible deal and I think this would offer the best protection. I can fiberglass mat/resin the damaged parts of the tub and after the line-x you should not even be able to tell. This should also protect it better then anything else for rust.

3. I am concerned on what to do for the small pin holes around the body and places where the body bends in ways that might be challenging for me to cut out and replace the sheet metal. The only way I can think of to fix the spots where the sheet metal is curve or hard to match via cutting out templates and welding in new pieces is to use fiber glass mat/resin, sand down, and epoxy primer/top over it. Is there any compound I can layer on besides just bondo that can fill in the pin holes where the sheet steel is thin?

Any thoughts of the best way to tackle this beast? Mind you this is not show room or factory quality expected here. This is a off-road vehicle and I am building it with the intent of it being functional, not purely for its looks. I want it to be decent looking and robust in the sense that future rust will be kept at bay.

I was thinking of using some of these products, they look good:

- Duraglas® Fiberglass Filled Filler: http://www.amazon.com/Duraglas-Fiberglass-Body-Filler-Putty/dp/B003BW9XPW

- USC Fiberglass Repair Kit- Cloth: http://www.eastwood.com/usc-fiberglass-repair-kit-cloth.html?reltype=3

 

[vincent85]

Pictures of the body after sandblast/epoxy primer #2

 

[vincent85]

Pictures of the body after sandblast/epoxy primer #3

 

[ozcrusier]

I would cut it out and weld a few patches in because it's a structural part of the body and needs its strength in roll overs and hard front enders. I would also consider a inner or out side type roll bar system in case the worst happens but if you make the right type the cruiser should just roll back on its legs with some minor dents and continue on it's merry way.

 

[vincent85]

I plan on having a full roof rack and welding in four pillars on each corner of the roof rack into the frame to adds structural strength. I think having some sort of exoskeleton cage will add strength and protection.

 

[RufusTheDufus]

Vincent, will your rack also mount to the roof rail?

I use the roof rail clamp style mount for my aluminum rack. Seems to work OK. I thought about adding some kind of structural supports that connected to the frame and couldn't come up with a scheme that would also flex with the body. I feared that frame mounts combined with roof rail/gutter mounts would work against each other and something would eventually break. So I gave up on the idea.

 

[vincent85]

Vincent, will your rack also mount to the roof rail?

I use the roof rail clamp style mount for my aluminum rack. Seems to work OK. I thought about adding some kind of structural supports that connected to the frame and couldn't come up with a scheme that would also flex with the body. I feared that frame mounts combined with roof rail/gutter mounts would work against each other and something would eventually break. So I gave up on the idea.

I am not sure I am buying it off of another forum member. I see your concern about the lack of flex and eventually the system snapping. I will have to integrate a system somehow that will make it work. I will find a way. When I go to install the rack, I will let you know.

 

[75workhorse]

I have brazed holes bigger than them but it is very fiddley and heaps of work
Will follow with great interest.

 

[Pauciflora]

G'day Vincent,

Good work with the build. You might want to check the orientation of your rear suspension shackles. I think you might have them upside down.

Cheers,

Ben

 

[vincent85]

G'day Vincent,

Good work with the build. You might want to check the orientation of your rear suspension shackles. I think you might have them upside down.

Cheers,

Ben

I will check the orientation, thanks mate.

 

[vincent85]

Update:

I spoke with the guys at long rage automotive in Australia (www.longrangeautomotive.com.au). They quoted me around $1400-1500 AUS to ship a 100lt auxillary tank for my HJ. That includes everything I need to complete the setup to include the tank, filler neck, fuel pump, and switch gauge. This is a great deal as it is cheaper the Specter off-road here in the U.S and it is a larger tank! I am working with the guys at the shop now to get the shipping squared away and I will purchase the tank.

I also got the tub portion of the body placed on the frame today (pictures below) to start the body work. I plan on using a combination of sheet metal to weld in new pieces, fiber glass, and bondo. After this is complete I am sending the tub to be line-x'd (top and bottom of the tub) and then top coated with paint by myself.

 

[RufusTheDufus]

I think you will be happy with the Long Range tank. Just one less thing to worry about as you're reassembling the truck.

 

[Pauciflora]

G'day Vincent,

Well done on your decision to select a tank from Long Range Automotive. They have been manufacturing after-market fuel tanks for as long as I can remember and have a very good reputation for making a quality product.

Cheers,

Ben

 

[Michael B]

Vincent,
I noticed you plan on send the tub to Line-x before paint. Normally paint is applied before the Line-x product. This puts a sealed finish under the line-x. If you are going with a base coat, clear coat paint, system Line-x likes to have it without the clear coat. It saves them time and you money on the installation of their product.

 

[vincent85]

Vincent,
I noticed you plan on send the tub to Line-x before paint. Normally paint is applied before the Line-x product. This puts a sealed finish under the line-x. If you are going with a base coat, clear coat paint, system Line-x likes to have it without the clear coat. It saves them time and you money on the installation of their product.

I was actually planning just to keep the epoxy primer and having them line-x on top of that. I was unaware if they wanted to have a top coat or not. I already figured clear not would not be a good idea, because it would not allow for adhesion. I will call my friend there to confirm what he wants to do. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[vincent85]

Bad news from Long Range Automotive in Australia on my auxiliary tank for my HJ, here is what the representative wrote back when I asked for a shipping quote:

These are your options:


1.A Door to Door service which will include all of the following fees; Customs, manifest, Bill of Lading, EDN, Professional, Clearance, Harbour Maintenance, Merchandise processing and delivery is $1600 AUD

2.A Port to Port service which includes only the sea freight for the goods is $450 AUD, I have been advised by our Export Agent that the USA will then charge you a minimum $785 US to have the goods cleared, this is not a charge that is bought upon by Australia.


The tank itself TLC457A is $1075 AUD on top of the above charges. It is very unfortunate that we do not have a distributor in the USA at the moment and it is something that we are really trying to rectify in the coming months.


I will leave this with you for your consideration.


Kind Regards


Brooke

So as you can see it is going to be a astronomical amount of money to have the tank sent, which is disappointing. I really wanted that tank and that leaves options like Specter off-road in the U.S which is a $1,500 tank kit.

Any thoughts guys on other routes I can go for the auxiliary tank?

 

[RufusTheDufus]

Make one, or have one made.

 

[bj40green]

Hi Vincent, just ran into your thread.
Here are a few pics of a Troopy with a roof rack in my neck of the woods.
The green BJ40 was mine.

Rudi

 

[vincent85]

Hi Vincent, just ran into your thread.
Here are a few pics of a Troopy with a roof rack in my neck of the woods.
The green BJ40 was mine.
View attachment 1022348 View attachment 1022349 View attachment 1022350 View attachment 1022351 View attachment 1022352

Rudi

That is really awesome! I can't wait to have my cruiser together and running! I bought a roof rack off a cruiser head on the forum that I will be putting on my HJ. I plan on adding four pillars to add structural strength to the roof rack and welding it into the frame.

 

[vincent85]

Hey guys,

I have been doing allot of work in stages. I have completed ALLOT of work already that you do not see on this chart, but with my looming Alaska trip coming up this summer I needed to set a milestone chart as it sits currently. Here is where my project is at:

Stage 1 mile stones (Post tear down and previous work) % Complete

Axles complete 80%
Suspension complete 90%
Steering box mounted 0%
Tie rod/drag link/control arms modified 0%
Skid plates installed 0%
Engine and tranny installed. 0%
Drive shafts installed. 0%
Extended range fuel tank 0%
Steering system installed (box and rods) 0%
Air lines 0%
Fuel lines 0%
Brake lines 0%
Disk brake install 95%

Stage 2 mile stones

Body work (includes body on frame) 50%
Expedition platform 0%
Rocker panel protection 0%
Engine turbo installed 0%
Fuel system test 0%
Engine cooling 0%
Intercooler 0%
Engine test run 0%
Brake system installed and tested 0%

Stage 3 mile stones

Install expedition sleeping platform 0%
Install and test all electrics 0%
Install interior 0%
Drive train test 0%
Bumpers installed w/winch tested 0%

Stage 4 mile stones

Local test drive 0%
Interstate test drive 0%

I just finished installing the ARB air lockers in both the full float front/rear axles along with the Yukon gears.

I have also been deep in body work. I have used short hair strained fiber glass, fiber glass mat, and 3M platinum body filler. I am almost finished with that on the tub. I just have a few parts to do finish on the rest of the body pieces. The new floor pans I ordered will have to be welded in along with some issue on the drivers side under the body

I also just ordered the follow raw steel material to fabricate the rocker rails that will go down the entire length of the body, the skid plate for my auxiliary gas tank, and to sleeve my tie rod/drag link (I have to shorten them to make my steering setup work by cutting them in the middle, pressing steel tube over them, and welding to create structural strength):

- 2x4 box tube, 20FT, 3/16”

- 2x3 angle iron, 20FT, 3/16”

- 4x8 steel sheet, 3/16”

My steering setup I am using is Trail Gears high steer arms, tie rod, drag link in conjunction with my power steering setup. The issue I found when installing the steering setup was my steering arms in their stock configuration only allow 2" of clearance from the tie rod to the top of the frame. This is with no weight on the frame and considering if I hit a bump that means my tie rod would hit the frame. I considered reaming the bottom of the control arms to fix the clearance issue with the frame, but then it caused a clearance issue with the front of the differential. Once I turned the tires the tie rod would hit the front differential cover. To fix this I ordered a second steering arm that is the same as my passenger side steering arm (remember I am a right hand drive vehicle). That means both my steering arms have two wholes in them for both a drag link/tie rod. This allows me to move my tie rod to the second hole on both of the steering arms which moves the tie rod away from the front of the differential and by reaming the bottom of the steering arm and installing them underneath the steering arm it clearances the top of the frame. My drag link will attach to the inner hole on the steering arm attaching over to the steering box where my shock tower is being replaced by the steering box/a shock tube hoop.

Among other things I am fabricating a setup for my two tanks. I plan on using the stock tank HJ tank in conjunction with a 97-06 Jeep Wrangler 20 gallon tank as the auxiliary. My plan is to connect a stainless steel t fitting where the fill point is and have a slope which will allow when the main tank is full to fill the secondary tank via gravity. I made a rough diagram tonight messing around and attached it. My goal is to create equal lines to the engine so the engine draws fuel from both tanks at the same time.

It was a challenge to find the stainless steel hardware I need that would work with the size diameter fuel lines I am working with. The fill neck fuel line that I am using to send to the Jeep auxiliary tank is 2" in diameter.

I also ordered pre-fabricated FJ40 brake lines, I can bend the rest I need. This will save me a ton of time. I don't have a emergency brake with my H55 5 speed setup, so what I am going to do is use four individual solenoid switches that will act as line locks. They are closed switches which means in theory when I apply the brakes and cut off the current to the switches they are in the closed position and will retain the hydraulic pressure to all four calipers in my disc brakes, thus locking up the brakes. When I start the vehicle and turn on the switches they are in the open position which will release the hydraulic pressure.