high oil pressure (1 Viewer)

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I will bump this thread again. So I changed the oil and went with the standard 5w30. I also put an oil pressure gauge on the engine. At idle after warming up it sat at 24psi. I'm pretty sure it's supposed to be a 4-5psi at idle. At 4,000rpm I'm at 81psi. This thread mentions two oil pressure release valves. I can't find either nor can I find a part number for either. What's the part number and where are they located? Anyone who has replaced these care to share the ease or difficulty of the replacement? Also, what is the danger if I just leave it with the high oil pressure?
 
I will bump this thread again. So I changed the oil and went with the standard 5w30. I also put an oil pressure gauge on the engine. At idle after warming up it sat at 24psi. I'm pretty sure it's supposed to be a 4-5psi at idle. At 4,000rpm I'm at 81psi. This thread mentions two oil pressure release valves. I can't find either nor can I find a part number for either. What's the part number and where are they located? Anyone who has replaced these care to share the ease or difficulty of the replacement? Also, what is the danger if I just leave it with the high oil pressure?

You DON'T have 'high' oil pressure, in fact you have 'good' oil pressure. At idle (when warm) mine runs between 15-22 psi. At 2200 rpm I am about 55-60 psi. So I am not surprised to see 80-ish at 4K.

The 4-5 psi you cite is the minimum number you should see...and frankly...would be pretty darn LOW! In fact, its the very reason I put a digital gauge and good pressure sending unit on my Cruiser. I can monitor it all the time. Having the stock gauges needle just barely off the bottom line at idle was disconcerting to me...until I added the digital and found that I actually had decent oil pressure.

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You DON'T have 'high' oil pressure, in fact you have 'good' oil pressure. At idle (when warm) mine runs between 15-22 psi. At 2200 rpm I am about 55-60 psi. So I am not surprised to see 80-ish at 4K.

The 4-5 psi you cite is the minimum number you should see...and frankly...would be pretty darn LOW! In fact, its the very reason I put a digital gauge and good pressure sending unit on my Cruiser. I can monitor it all the time. Having the stock gauges needle just barely off the bottom line at idle was disconcerting to me...until I added the digital and found that I actually had decent oil pressure.

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Thank you. That was extremely encouraging. I really didn't want to deal with another repair right after the expensive holidays. I will go ahead and be content with the oil pressure and move on to bigger and better things for the 80.
 
Yeah..... I work a lot with hydraulic and oil systems and hardly ever have to go work on something due to “too high of pressure” , if you’re that concerned go to your Toyota dealership and they can get you the relief valves.other than that a failing pump won’t cause high pressure.... possibly sludge but I doubt it, that would most likely clogg your pick up screen and cavitate the pump causing low pressure. You can always cut your oil filter open and look for metal/debris.... or just drive the crap out of it
 
You DON'T have 'high' oil pressure, in fact you have 'good' oil pressure. At idle (when warm) mine runs between 15-22 psi. At 2200 rpm I am about 55-60 psi. So I am not surprised to see 80-ish at 4K.

The 4-5 psi you cite is the minimum number you should see...and frankly...would be pretty darn LOW! In fact, its the very reason I put a digital gauge and good pressure sending unit on my Cruiser. I can monitor it all the time. Having the stock gauges needle just barely off the bottom line at idle was disconcerting to me...until I added the digital and found that I actually had decent oil pressure.

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@flintknapper what pressure guage is this? I like it!
 
@flintknapper what pressure guage is this? I like it!


'Auber gauges'. I use them for oil pressure and trans temperature.

I retained my OEM sending unit so I would have the normal function of the dash gauge, but can also monitor the oil pressure 'real time' with the Auber Gauge.

 
Both my 80s report similar reading with those oils. I currently am running Mobil 0W-40 and I feel that's that's working well for me. With that 0W-40 my startups have good flow and plenty of pressure. BTW, one of my rigs had the complete oil system checked (by me) and reassembled, and it runs as reported here. Lighter weight oil flows faster, removing heat measurably better, and is better for startup wear - just gotta have adequate pressure of course.
 
'Auber gauges'. I use them for oil pressure and trans temperature.

I retained my OEM sending unit so I would have the normal function of the dash gauge, but can also monitor the oil pressure 'real time' with the Auber Gauge.

@flintknapper those just might fit the bill. Thanks! Can you point me in the right direction to find the output characteristics for the oil sender?
 
@flintknapper those just might fit the bill. Thanks! Can you point me in the right direction to find the output characteristics for the oil sender?

I used the Auber 205g with mine, but there are other sending units available as well (less expensive). If you plan to replace the OEM sending unit with one of these be aware...the threads on your vehicle are not standard tapered pipe thread and you will need to use a thread adapter. I relocated my OEM sending unit and added the Auber unit using an adapter so I could have both the dash gauge and the digital gauge.

NOTE:

If anyone is contemplating installing an aftermarket oil gauge in order to 'confirm' oil pressure because your factory DASH GAUGE shows what you might think to be a LOW reading. I would recommend you not go to the trouble. I can assure you...that IF your gauge/needle shows any pressure/movement at all you are fine.

Turn your concerns to oil level and use a GOOD quality filter.


If you just want to be able to monitor the pressure anyway, then yes....this gauge and others will do just fine.

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@flintknapper thanks for the info. :steer: I bought the oil pressure test kit at HF and will be checking it for POM.
 
Hello, I noticed that the oil pressure gauge on my '96 was all the way at the top mark while driving and barely came down at idle. We installed a pressure gauge and it read 60psi at idle and close to 100 psi at 3000 rpm! We replaced the oil pressure relief valve and spring. That helped some but it is still varying between 15- 30 psi at idle and around 75-78 psi at 3000 rpm. The dash gauge is still at the top mark while driving. Could the oil pump housing bore be scored in the area where the relief valve sits (causing the relief valve to stick)? I have been told that replacing the oil pump requires pulling the head and half the engine apart to replace. Any ideas what to try next? Thanks.
 


Your initial reading (if accurate) was certainly cause for concern. Your present readings are not terribly out of line.

The pressures at idle (while a bit elevated) are not troublesome. The readings at 3K rpm are about 10-15 psi higher than mine but I would want to compare that reading against a second pressure gauge to confirm the accuracy before considering any actions to take.
 
So I should not be too worried about my high reading on my gauge. New 80 to me owner here. Thanks
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Interesting timing for this thread to be bumped.

I've just finished a head gasket replacement.
Refilled with 5w30, new aftermarket filter.

Oil pressure came up ok on first start up.

After driving for 20 minutes I noticed my gauge is reading quite a bit higher than previously.
Engine is purring like a kitten.

I've run the engine for about 45 minutes since gasket replacement. Just dumped the oil, and refilled with a fresh load of 10w30, and new filter.
I'll do this again as I had water contamination in the oil due to head gasket failure, and i needed to run it to shift it a few times.

Ordinarily, I would not be terribly concerned that it's reading high. More puzzle about the sudden change in reading, and slightly worried I may have a blockage due to contamination or sludge.

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Engine is not up to temp for these pics, but readings were the same yesterday when it was at temp.

Should I be worried about a blockage from water contamination?

Dumped oil was a little dirty, but nothing that concerned me, and nothing solid in it.
 
I would think listening for any squeaking would be the only way to know there is any starvation at this point. I haven't done a headgasket on a 1fzfe but is it possible to put the gasket on upside down and block oil pathways?
 
I would think listening for any squeaking would be the only way to know there is any starvation at this point. I haven't done a headgasket on a 1fzfe but is it possible to put the gasket on upside down and block oil pathways?
No, that's not possible.
 
Then unless you are really clogged up with gunk, and you would have been able to see that while you were in there, I would expect things to be ok. might check the oil sender connection to make sure nothing is interfering with it and the wires to it giving a false reading.
 
I had the same situation (water in oil) and also changed the oil after my head-gasket job soon after running the engine for about 50 miles. Sure....it's possible that some SMALL obstruction has occurred someplace but unless you are seeing a really high reading at warm IDLE....I would not be too concerned about it.

IF you didn't go through your oil cooler when doing the HG job....you might run some SeaFoam in your oil (at recommended portions) and let it help clean/dissolve anything that might be causing elevated pressures (if indeed there are any).

Hooking up a mechanical gauge and checking the actual pressure would tell the real story.

On cool mornings.....at just over 2,000 rpm I run right at 50 psi if that gives you any idea. I run a thicker oil than you do however.
 

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