High Altitude Carb Adjustments

[madams557]

I just brought a 78 FJ45 into Colorado and it is running really rich. During idle, it has a horrible gas smelling exhaust, leaves a black residue where the exhaust hits the ground and I'm guessing it is running too rich. I figure it definitely can use a good tune up, but will I need to have the carb rejetted? If so, what size jet and where would a good supply source be in Colorado (Fort Collins)?

 

[Romer]

A good first step is to adjust your mixture level to a more lean mixture. You can find it in the Haynes Manual or OEM manuals on how to do that. Getting a tune up and rejetted is also a good thing, but adjusting the mixture will help till you get that done

 

[IDave]

Your high altitude jets are probably stored inside the 2 caps at the front of your carb, below the float bowl viewing window. Having recently gone through this myself, and living at 5130 ft above sealevel, I think you will be happier with the HA jets.

 

[madams557]

After some further investigating, the vapor filter and fuel filter have some excessive restriction, so I will start with those two items. There might be another item with the fuel system that I need to work on too. Then I'll start replacing plugs and wires and the likes.

Then something else came to my attention. Appearantly in Canada they solve the mess of anitfreeze coming out of the overflow valve by plugging the end of the tube with a steel Nail Punch. The excessive leaking from the front of the radiator clued me in on the Nail Punch. So I see radiator work in my future.

Anyway, when comes time to get to the carb for rejetting (if I need to go that far after everything else), do I just walk into NAPA and say I want HA Jets for a 78 2bbl carb?

 

[IDave]

You almost certainly have the jets stored in the little access caps in the front. You shouldn't need to buy them!

 

[Degnol]

IDave is right. The extra primary jets are stored in the hex cap in front of the primary barrel. (The one closest to the engine. )The secondary does NOT CHANGE. Remove the hex cap, let the gas drain out of the bowl and you'll need a special screwdriver with a split blade to change it W/O removing the top of the carb. I bought one from the Snap-On guy for $10. Store the one you take out back in the hex cap and try it. You may have other issues, but this is a cheeeep first diagnostic test.

IDave...I have the header on. Nanna, Nanna BOO BOO!!!!
Ed Long

 

[IDave]

Whoah, Dude! I just switched back to an exhaust manifold system with a WORKING heatriser!

 

[Degnol]

Hijacker!!!! I'm trying the fluid heatriser, but temps are more moderate here...generally. Get Busy!
Ed