Hi all (2 Viewers)

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So recently I became owner of 2008 4.7 Tundra.
I live in Croatia and this is only 4.7 Tundra in my country.
Excellent truck with a superb motor. How many miles and when was the timing belt done?
Also, check out Tundra.com in the 2 gen section for good advice and tips
 
Excellent truck with a superb motor. How many miles and when was the timing belt done?
Also, check out Tundra.com in the 2 gen section for good advice and tips

Excellent truck with a superb motor. How many miles and when was the timing belt done?
Also, check out Tundra.com in the 2 gen section for good advice and tips
It has 200000mils, and I yust bought it with engine defect. So I will replace timing belt set.
Ald at this point I do have some strange issue with the engine.
It head excessive smoke on exhaust (massive). I have ruled out blown gasket as I have 12bar compression on all 8 cylinders. none of the fluids are mixed. today I have changed PVC valve, and today I will disconnect brake vacum line and steering pressure line to the engine and go from there.
Strange thing is that on right bank SAIS valve I have noticed oil on lover part of the valve, one where metal pipe is connected thowards exhaust. It would be great if someone know how is this possible, as it should be one way and that is out to the exhaust.
Truck was cheep and it has great potential, all it needs it's love and some money.
 
Is it possible that the PCV valve was installed backwards?

While these aren't for the year you have, they do cover the engine you have, so they might be of some help regarding the SAIS.



Sounds like some girls I very briefly dated over the years.
I have replaced PCV with original from Toyota. I have order it by VIN number. I will cut all possible oil feeds to the intake, and start from there.
 
Welcome @KelaTT.

What color is the smoke you're seeing? A cylinder pressure test and visual inspection of oil and coolant aren't always going to show a leak. Especially if the tests were done on an engine that is not at operating temperature.

If the smoke is white in color I would leave the radiator cap off and see if the coolant releases bubble at idle on a warm engine. I would also suggest a block tester and block testing fluid just to completely rule it out.

If the smoke is white and the above has been checked, it could be an accumulation of moisture in the exhaust system, likely taking place in the catalytic converters.

If the smoke has a blue or grey color to it, it is burning oil. If the smoke is worse at startup then you likely have leaking valve stem seals. Usually this manifests as a slightly rough idle at start accompanied by a lot of smoke. The smoke will tend to clear up some as the engine reaches operating temperature. If it doesn't go away then the seals should be replaced before running it any further. A quick check would be to pull the spark plugs and look for oil or tar buildup on the electrode.

We need more details. Pictures could help too.
 
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Welcome @KelaTT.

What color is the smoke you're seeing? A cylinder pressure test and visual inspection of oil and coolant aren't always going to show a leak. Especially if the tests were done on an engine that is not at operating temperature.

If the smoke is white in color I would leave the radiator cap off and see if the coolant releases bubble at idle on a warm engine. I would also suggest a block tester and block testing fluid just to completely rule it out.

If the smoke is white and the above has been checked, it could be an accumulation of moisture in the exhaust system, likely taking place in the catalytic converters.

If the smoke has a blue or grey color to it, it is burning oil. If the smoke is worse at startup then you likely have leaking valve stem seals. Usually this manifests as a slightly rough idle at start accompanied by a lot of smoke. The smoke will tend to clear up some as the engine reaches operating temperature. If it doesn't go away then the seals should be replaced before running it any further. A quick check would be to pull the spark plugs and look for oil or tar buildup on the electrode.

We need more details. Pictures could help too.
Thank you for all suggestions.
Conclusion is that I have sized oil rings on few cylinders.

Now I have few questions, maybe you can help.
I would like to buy an engine, as don't have time to fix this one. I am a mechanic, and now i have to prepare lot of boats for the season.
What I have learned so far is there are 2 or maybe 3 types of 4.7 VVTi engines.
1. Tundra/Seqouia with SAIS valves mounted on top of the camshaft covers on both sides, one pump in V and second near front right wheel
2. Land Cruiser 200 / later gen LX470 with SAIS valves mounted behind cylinder heads/intake manifold
3.??? I spoke with guy from UAE and he says he has LC 200 without SAIS and that it is VVTi (he sent the pic of VVTi valves)

Is it possible that there is 4.7 VVTi without this emission control?
If so, that means that there is possibility that I can fit this engine with it's ECU and harness and by that it will eliminate SAIS.
My car has LPG attested, so I don't have to do ECO test.
 
I've used Berryman Chem-Dip to free up oil control rings and open up the drain holes behind them (I'm lookin' at you, 1ZZ-FE). You'll want to drain the oil, fill the cylinders with the fluid and keep filling them as they slowly drain until you've gone through the entire gallon. It'll take a few days to a week depending on how tight your ring gaps are and how well the rings seat to the cylinders. The fluid will now be in the oil pan. Drain the pan, put a few ounces of oil in each cylinder and let it drain into the pan. Drain the pan again, fill the engine with oil, and run it. Oh, and run it outside because it's going to smoke like a MF'r. If you have catalytic converters, you'll want to unbolt them because running this much crap through them will probably plug them or at the very least foul them enough to throw a code. I can't stress it enough- it's going to smoke like a bastard. First time I did it, I ran it in my garage and it smoked so bad, my neighbors called the fire department. It was pretty gnarly.

I see you're in Croatia, so I have no idea if Berryman's available there. If not, you'll have to find the equivalent, whatever that may be.
 
I've used Berryman Chem-Dip to free up oil control rings and open up the drain holes behind them (I'm lookin' at you, 1ZZ-FE). You'll want to drain the oil, fill the cylinders with the fluid and keep filling them as they slowly drain until you've gone through the entire gallon. It'll take a few days to a week depending on how tight your ring gaps are and how well the rings seat to the cylinders. The fluid will now be in the oil pan. Drain the pan, put a few ounces of oil in each cylinder and let it drain into the pan. Drain the pan again, fill the engine with oil, and run it. Oh, and run it outside because it's going to smoke like a MF'r. If you have catalytic converters, you'll want to unbolt them because running this much crap through them will probably plug them or at the very least foul them enough to throw a code. I can't stress it enough- it's going to smoke like a bastard. First time I did it, I ran it in my garage and it smoked so bad, my neighbors called the fire department. It was pretty gnarly.

I see you're in Croatia, so I have no idea if Berryman's available there. If not, you'll have to find the equivalent, whatever that may be.
Thank you for suggestion.
Here in Croatia older mechanics use to put dizel inside cylinder untill they free up the rings. Also I have witnessed old disel engine starting after complete seazure after using coca cola. Funny but true.
I think i will try to find similar product and give it a go.
At this point i have nothing to lose.
This one is marketed as somthing for my problem, and it is available in my local dealer.
BLUECHEM CARBON X2 COMBUSTION CHAMBER CLEANER
 
@KelaTT Diesel is an excellent cleaner for grease and carburized oil. Just make sure you don't accidentally reinstall the spark plugs and make sure your oil pan drain plug is out and the oil is drained. It wouldn't necessarily be the end of the world, but you don't want to circulate that diluted oil through your engine while parts are moving. As far as the the VVTi question, I don't know if there was a 4.7 VVTi without emissions.
 
Thank you for suggestion.
Here in Croatia older mechanics use to put dizel inside cylinder untill they free up the rings. Also I have witnessed old disel engine starting after complete seazure after using coca cola. Funny but true.
I think i will try to find similar product and give it a go.
At this point i have nothing to lose.
This one is marketed as somthing for my problem, and it is available in my local dealer.
BLUECHEM CARBON X2 COMBUSTION CHAMBER CLEANER

You are going to get very specific and immediate replies to 4.7 tundra questions on the forum below.

Edit: And just reread that you have a 2008 tundra 4.7L so also check out 2nd Gen Tundra forum
 
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