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Joined
Mar 21, 2016
Threads
10
Messages
154
Location
Okinawa City, Japan
Can someone tell me what harness this is;firewall, dash cluster? Smoke started billowing out of my engine bay and from behind the dash. I'd like to just replace the whole harness if possible, instaed of splicing a repair and running the risk of another incident. Thanks in advance for your help!

IMG_1114.JPG
 
What accessories did you have on when the smokefest started?

Find all the wires that are cooked and look to see if they were rubbing on a metal body part.

Usually a wire burnout starts on one wire at a specific location. Try to find the starting point.
 
What accessories did you have on when the smokefest started?

Find all the wires that are cooked and look to see if they were rubbing on a metal body part.

Usually a wire burnout starts on one wire at a specific location. Try to find the starting point.
Nothing was on, I was attempting to start and tapping the starter with a rubber mallet. It had been giving me trouble with not starting for the past few days and I was trying something I read here in the forums.
 
Yeah first find the fried wires and inspect them and the areas around them to see if you can find what happened (like what @Output Shaft mentioned). From there you will have to tell us where exactly that is located, with general regards to other items in the dash, and what it is coming from (year and model 60). That will give us a better idea.

I take you you were having issues with the starter kicking over and by tapping the starter you were seeing if it has a "deadspot" that was causing it to not connect? Check all the connections to the starter, grounds and power and ensure that everything looks good and is clean. Then also check your battery cable connections. I had a similar issue where I would get the dreaded "click click" when turning the key and attempting to start but was able to get everything else to power on. At first I thought it was my starter but ended up my negative battery connector was a bit gunked up and corroded. After cleaning it and the ground connections nearby I have not had any issues (going on 3 months now).
 
No replacement harnesses available. Toyota or Aftermarket. There are some painless kits that are supposed to fit, but they're not painless.

One s***ty pic of that rats nest ain't gonna help us. Or you.

Maybe starter solenoid stuck in the ON position ?

There is a guy here, MUD name Coolerman, who repairs harnesses with Factory wire of the same color/code, should you want to pull it.
 
or find one from a truck that is getting parted out. You will need to find out what is melted or what went up in smoke anyway....so you can understand what happened...the harness should not be melting otherwise. There are people parting out trucks in the classified area all the time..... but getting a wiriing harness is going to be a royal pain in the @$$.

I would do what you could to fix what you have. Hopefully someone has not done some custom wiring...(that usually why stuff goes up in smoke)
 
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or find one from a truck that is getting parted out. You will need to find out what is melted or what went up in smoke anyway....so you can understand what happened...the harness should be be melting otherwise. There are people parting out trucks in the classified area all the time..... but getting a wiriing harness is going to be a royal pain in the @$$.

I would do what you could to fix what you have. Hopefully someone has not done some custom wiring...(that usually why stuff goes up in smoke)
I'm thinking that when I had the security system installed here in the States, is where or when it happened; it all started after this. As for folks parting out their rigs, there's the question "will an FJ 12V harness work with an HJ60 24V system? I don't want to get a harness and it burn up as well.
 
You don't need to know about electronics to fix damaged wiring. All you need is a good crimper and wire stripper, insulated butt connectors (preferably adhesive lined & heat shrinkable) and a coil of wire. Cut out the damaged wires & splice in new wires. It's easy. And with a good crimper, almost fun.

Titan Tools 11477 Ratcheting Wire Terminal Crimper - - Amazon.com
 
I'm thinking that when I had the security system installed here in the States, is where or when it happened; it all started after this. As for folks parting out their rigs, there's the question "will an FJ 12V harness work with an HJ60 24V system? I don't want to get a harness and it burn up as well.

That is a big thing... if there is not a proper inverter wired in to convert the voltage from 12v to 24v and back then you will continue to burn stuff up. Just because the security system was installed here in the states does not mean that it was done, let alone done properly...... Hence why we asked make/model.
 
You don't need to know about electronics to fix damaged wiring. All you need is a good crimper and wire stripper, insulated butt connectors (preferably adhesive lined & heat shrinkable) and a coil of wire. Cut out the damaged wires & splice in new wires. It's easy. And with a good crimper, almost fun.
Yeah, I know a little on how to repair the wiring I guess but I wish there was a way for me to find the points where the harness can be disconnected and removed from the vehicle and then I can comb through it all and repair as required but there are a few "additions" like the aftermarket stereo and security system that I'll have to "tap" back into the harness and I wouldn't know where to do this.
When I bought the rig I didn't want it to be a "fixer-upper" but I'm finding out that it's slowly becoming just that.
 
That is a big thing... if there is not a proper inverter wired in to convert the voltage from 12v to 24v and back then you will continue to burn stuff up. Just because the security system was installed here in the states does not mean that it was done, let alone done properly...... Hence why we asked make/model.
It's an HJ60 from Japan. October of 1989 with a 2H Diesel, no turbo.
 
"When I bought the rig I didn't want it to be a "fixer-upper" but I'm finding out that it's slowly becoming just that."

Well, and don't take this as being a smart ass, you are dealing with a nearly 30 year old mechanical thing! It has had an unknown life before you, and no matter how it looks or what you were told by the seller, it will have parts and systems that go bad.

Owners of older vehicles are typically tinkerer's and shade tree mechanics, and most enjoy this aspect of ownership. If not, it will be a costly relationship to pay others to keep up with repairs.

Buy the factory manuals, read them, ask questions here, and dig in. For the most part, older LandCruisers are simple and Mud can answer and help when you get stuck.

The type of problems you are experiencing are common when 24v vehicles are mixed with 12v accessories - especially alarms, as most alarm installers have never really seen a 24v vehicle before!

Another thing to check is to make sure the ground connections, and there are several, are good - tight, clean, and connected to battery. Many odd problems end up being bad grounds. IMHO, a LC can not have too many grounds! Battery to engine, battery to frame, battery to body, battery to starter, engine to body, body to frame...you get the idea.

Welcome and good luck.
 
"When I bought the rig I didn't want it to be a "fixer-upper" but I'm finding out that it's slowly becoming just that."

Well, and don't take this as being a smart ass, you are dealing with a nearly 30 year old mechanical thing! It has had an unknown life before you, and no matter how it looks or what you were told by the seller, it will have parts and systems that go bad.

Could not have stated this better. Really you should NEVER go into an older vehicle purchase believe that it will be a jump in and go unless you paid $$$$$$$ for a fully resto'd, frame off type vehicle.

For instance, I bought mine with "a little rust showing on tailgate and small places elsewhere". What I have found was that the crappy paint job that was done was actually to cover up the POUNDS OF MUD that was used to cover up rust everywhere instead of properly fixing it. But I knew the truck ran soundly/mechanically and that was my main concern, the rest was something I was willing to learn.
 
I hear you, that's exactly how I thought going into my 60. I thought a little work and it would be ship-shape. After all it's a LANDCRUISER! That legend of dependability known the world over! Well, yes and no...That mindset means that almost all of them have been rode hard and put away wet. For thirty years now.

To put it another way, there are only two ways to own an fj60...well-heeled or well-connected. IH8Mud is your connection! If I couldn't do the needed work on mine, there's just no way I could afford it, and I can barely afford it as it is. But when I get done fixing something and all's right with the 60, it feels like all's right with the world! Don't get discouraged and don't let it intimidate you. All the help and info you need is here. Luckily they must obey the laws of physics and so all problems can be solved with logical and methodical troubleshooting.

"...when you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth."
 
My HJ60 will not burn, I tried.
So get better pictures of the cable, get that tape out of there, we need colors: sometimes 2, never three, check voltage, check charching voltage.

The alarm must go, check fusible links for damage, (I am looking for replacement at the moment)
Remove all black tape, no problem to replace it later (black tape matters) but now you need to see the damage.

read a bit, might remove the battery so the firefighters dont have to wake you up.


I just received this tool to open and replace cables because I am also digging in the wiring: replaced alternator, FSM checked voltage regulator and it had (replaced) a burned - wire:

3pcs Car SUV Electrical Terminal Wiring Crimp Connector Pin Removel Key Tool Kit

HJ60 fusible link: I am trying to get all the useful info in one sentence: "what size to buy" and convert AWG to mm² or mm :hmm:
hj60.freeforums.org • View topic - 24V glow,alternator,dome,buzzer,battery, electrics

need: 0.5 mm and 0.85mm and 1.25mm: or is it mm² ?!
seems mm = AWG: 24 --- and 19 --- and --- 16??
or mm² ?
AWG Number -- Ø [Inch] -- Ø [mm] -- Ø [mm²]
24 ---------- 0.0201 --- 0.511 --- 0.205
19 ---------- 0.0359 --- 0.912 --- 0.653
20 ---------- 0.0320 --- 0.812 --- 0.518
16 ---------- 0.0508 --- 1.29 ---1.31
17 ---------- 0.0453 --- 1.15 ---1.04


For mm² need 0.5 mm² and 0.85 mm² and 1.25 mm²:
seems mm² = AWG: 20--- and 18--- and --- 16??
AWG Number --Ø [Inch] -- Ø [mm] -- Ø [mm²]
20 ---------0.0320 ----0.812 ---- 0.518
17 ---------0.0453 ----1.15 ----1.04
18 ---------0.0403 -----1.02 ----0.823
16 ---------0.0508 -----1.29 -----1.31
17 ---------0.0453------ 1.15 ----- 1.04

https://technick.net/guides/electronics/awg_to_metric/

file.php


fusible link for sale but not especially for hj60, have to see later:
20G 10FT FUSIBLE LINK PRIMARY GROUND WIRE PROTECTS WIRING CIRCUIT NOS 20 GAUGE | eBay
 
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x4 on the above, I'd at least remove power to the alarm until you figure out what's causing the short or excessive draw.
 
I have been installing alarms for over 25 years that being said I have never seen an alarm burn up any wires but i havent installed one on a 24v land cruiser What all does the alarm operate? Parking lights? Hea
d light courtesy?dome light courtesy?door locks?power window up and down?remote start?horn honk?. How long has the alarm been installed? What is the manufacturer of the alarm. Sorry for the questions just trying to help.
 

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