Help with leaking / rusted rear diff

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Wow. Looks like that thing has been laying next to the Titanic for the last 20 years.

IMO I would sell it. That is a LOT of rust. It is salvageable but I would take the body off the frame and media blast the frame and every component that is salvageable. Buy all new bolts, nuts, and washers. Put 2 coats of chassis saver on the frame. Starting over is way easier.
 
Thanks for your input fellas, it's much appreciated. I'm not to car savvy (obviously) but was looking forward to learn a lot from working on this rig. Seems like it's going to be to difficult / frustrating to work on w the rust. I definitely jumped on this too quickly when I saw the price / mileage.

On to the next one!
 
I will admit that even by my standards, that thing is pretty rusty. That said, it's kinda weird how some spots on the frame and other areas really aren't that bad and could be cleaned up if you soak everything in bar chain oil and then scrub, sand and wire wheel a bunch of it off. but other areas are really, really bad.

Depending on whether or not you could get your money back out of it or not, or if that even matters, you could still salvage it. Swapping the axle out would be a challenge, but it would also give you better access to clean parts of it up that would be tough to get to with the axle in place. I don't mean to sound rude or mean, but I think it's going to be tough to sell as anything more than a parts rig anyway unless the axle gets fixed somehow. I guess it depends on how much time you want to put into it, what your work space is and how much you want to learn about wrenching, but if you could sort of set it aside and start collecting cheap used parts, you might still end up with a decent rig. You could always resell the used parts if you decide it's too much work and sell the truck for parts.

What does the rest of it look like? My undercarriage was pretty rusty too when I bought it(not quite that bad and definitely not so bad that the axle housing rusted through) but because the truck had been stored during the winter for the previous 14 years, the body was actually in remarkable shape for Northern Minnesota truck with only two rust spots on each front fender down by the rocker panel and another actual hole that I found after the fact that is covered by the rear bumper side pieces. Those will be easy fixes and nobody will ever know they were there since you really can't see them unless you are looking for them. My cloth interior is like new, which I still don't completely understand because the people I bought it from drove it for 250,000 miles. I am all in on my truck and have spent a good amount of money rebuilding the top end of the motor, rebuilding the front axle, all new braking system, all new exhaust, soon to have a new fuel tank, skid plate and filler neck, etc. I don't regret it because I did all the work myself and learned a ton in the process, the truck runs and drives perfectly and even if I did go down south and bought a clean truck, I would probably would have ended up doing a lot of that stuff anyway. My truck will never be a museum piece, but I bet it has as many years to go as a driver than it has already racked up.

Your truck is still a Land Cruiser and even though it needs some love, it still might have a future for you if you can muster the energy and finances to make it happen.

Good luck with what ever you decide!
 
Thanks red merle.

The body has some dents and the paint is faded a little bit on the hood. No rust showing unless you look underneath.

Motor and trans are great. I put 1,200 miles on it over the past month no issues. Doesn't leak oil, has good brakes (beside brake lines), and tires. AC and 4wd good. Antenna doesn't go up all the way.

Leather is in pretty good shape except for the drivers sear, which I patched up and put a cover on.

CEL is on for rust in the EGR valve. I cleaned it the best I could and cleared the code, but the CEL came back on.

It just passed inspection w flying colors.... it's just that god forsaken rust.
 
Thanks red merle.

The body has some dents and the paint is faded a little bit on the hood. No rust showing unless you look underneath.

Motor and trans are great. I put 1,200 miles on it over the past month no issues. Doesn't leak oil, has good brakes (beside brake lines), and tires. AC and 4wd good. Antenna doesn't go up all the way.

Leather is in pretty good shape except for the drivers sear, which I patched up and put a cover on.

CEL is on for rust in the EGR valve. I cleaned it the best I could and cleared the code, but the CEL came back on.

It just passed inspection w flying colors.... it's just that god forsaken rust.
Could you just grind down the area where the axle housing rusted through, stick some JB Weld on there and just drive it while you start putting together a long term plan for it?

Based on what you've said, I still think the truck might be worth fixing up. Rust removal and reversal is mostly just your labor until you get to buying new or used parts. The way I justify it in my head is that I live in an area where they dump tons of salt on the roads so if I want rust free, I have to either be willing to travel or buy something new(the exception to that is a deal like my Tacoma that came from AZ and is truly rust free, even though I bought it in WI. The sun is hard on things too though and I spent plenty of time and money making that truck what it is too). I paid $3000 for my Cruiser and I probably sunk another $7000 worth of parts into it and I am not quite done. I still need to do the fuel system and I want to rebuild the AC system, but that is really about it. I will probably have around $12,000 into it at that point and have one heck of a nice rig to show for it. What do you really get for 12 grand these days? Certainly nothing as well made and reliable as a nice 80 Series, that is for sure. You would be really hard pressed to find an 80 that has had as much work as I have put into mine AND is rust free for that price(those are going for more like $15,000 on the open market, yes deals are found, but the prices are going up). There is no question that rust free is better, it's just not something that easy to procure when you live in the rust belt.

You'll have to decide, but I would at least look into your options before you dump the truck for peanuts.
 
Definitely, I just put some epoxy around the leak area and painted it. It doesn't leak when sitting. It's a slow leak while driving short distances. The only way I found out about the diff leak was after trailing a pop up camper 100 miles.

And I have a DD so it'll be sitting until I decide what to do. Time and no garage space are my two issues. I have a friend who loves working on older cars. I'm gunna ask him if he is up for this challenge though lol.

Also, i have a lead from a fellow muddier to pick up front and rear axles from a 91' for incredibly CHEAP... Would there be an issue in the rear changing from disc brakes to drums? Or is that the least of my concern lol
 
Definitely, I just put some epoxy around the leak area and painted it. It doesn't leak when sitting. It's a slow leak while driving short distances. The only way I found out about the diff leak was after trailing a pop up camper 100 miles.

And I have a DD so it'll be sitting until I decide what to do. Time and no garage space are my two issues. I have a friend who loves working on older cars. I'm gunna ask him if he is up for this challenge though lol.

Also, i have a lead from a fellow muddier to pick up front and rear axles from a 91' for incredibly CHEAP... Would there be an issue in the rear changing from disc brakes to drums? Or is that the least of my concern lol
That sounds like a good plan.

I am not sure on the axle question. Mine is a 94, so I have the disc brakes. There might be an issue there, but I am not savvy enough to know. I would do a search for that and if you can't figure it out that way, just post another thread asking those questions. Someone here will know.
 
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