Help with installing OEM front spacers PN 43136-60020

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Nooooooooob1

Nooooooooob1

Joined
Oct 2, 2020
Threads
27
Messages
206
Location
Atlanta
Specifically regarding KDSS:
Can someone give a run down of what I need to do? As far as I understand, while on level ground, I need to turn the two screws on the valve 3 times each. Am I then able to raise the truck as needed?

Once everything is installed, put the truck back down on level ground and tighten the screws back? How can I ensure I won't end up with any KDSS lean?

Thanks
 
When loosening it doesn’t matter whether the truck is level, only when tightening. After setting it down roll it back and forth to let the suspension settle then tighten them to 10ft/lb or 120in/lb.

But above all, when loosening them do not go more than three full turns! Things go bad quick if you go to 4 or 5.

KDSS lean is usually not the KDSS system, but an imbalance somewhere else, whether it be a sagging spring or pivot bolts torqued unevenly.

Another overlooked thing is to wait until the truck is back at ride height before torquing the LCA pivot bolts. Doing this with the suspension sagged out twists the bushings at ride height and will kill them quickly. Some people try to leave these bolts tight and push down on the arm but you’ll see... they are very stiff.
 
I am looking at purchasing the front OEM spacers (43136-60020); does the KDSS have to opened or messed with when installing these spacers?
 
NCMTNS said:
I am looking at purchasing the front OEM spacers (43136-60020); does the KDSS have to opened or messed with when installing these spacers?
Click to expand...
Opening the balance screws helps with getting the bar end links back into place, but quite a few people have done it without.

Are yours rusty?
 
I'm getting ready to order these as well. I've done a few spring coilovers but also curious about KDSS. Not sure if I should have the dealership do it. Also not sure if I trust the dealership either!
 
bloc said:
Opening the balance screws helps with getting the bar end links back into place, but quite a few people have done it without.

Are yours rusty?
Click to expand...

OK, sounds good.

Not sure, have not looked...
 
Doing the front suspension without loosening the KDSS shutter valve screws is a huge hassle. Plan on using lots of leverage, and physically struggling with the lower control arms and/or sway bar. I've done the job with and without loosening, so I can say with certainty that it is possible. That being said, I would never do it without loosening the shutter valve screws, if I had the option.
 
I will be attempting this once I decide on a kit here in the coming months. What are the torque specs for the UCA's and LCA's?
 
Tex68w said:
I will be attempting this once I decide on a kit here in the coming months. What are the torque specs for the UCA's and LCA's?
Click to expand...
LCA pivot bolt 207
Strut lower bolt/nut 133
Upper spring perch nuts 33
Lower ball joint “bridge” to knuckle bolts 221

UCA pivot bolt 136
UCA ball joint 81

sway bar link to lower arm bolt 100
 
NCMTNS said:
I am looking at purchasing the front OEM spacers (43136-60020); does the KDSS have to opened or messed with when installing these spacers?
Click to expand...
It is best to open the valves. On my newer 200, the valves have an external "nut" like a typical bolt, not the dreaded recessed hex head bolt that is prone to stripping if rusted.

I had to loosen the LCA bolts to let the knuckle droop enough to get the strut out. Be sure to mark the alignment cams with paint dots prior to loosening, that way if anything shifts you can get the cams back to original adjustment.
 
I also installed rear spring spacers at the same time, OME80PR10 (for 91-07 LC), they fit the 200s. Inexpensive and gave me a .25" lift in the rear. They are only about $25 from Slee. If you do the rear, just be careful of the swaybar link inverting when you release the one side link, it is not a lot of force, so propping it up with a jack stand or similar to fine. It is easy to correct, just know that it can happen.
 
Tex68w said:
I will be attempting this once I decide on a kit here in the coming months. What are the torque specs for the UCA's and LCA's?
Click to expand...
You may already know this but others might not...

The LCA & UCA pivot bolts, lower strut bolt, and sway bar link bolt all need to be torqued with the vehicle at ride height, not with the suspension dropped out. Not getting this right can destroy all of the relevant bushings very quickly.
 
bloc said:
You may already know this but others might not...

The LCA & UCA pivot bolts, lower strut bolt, and sway bar link bolt all need to be torqued with the vehicle at ride height, not with the suspension dropped out. Not getting this right can destroy all of the relevant bushings very quickly.
Click to expand...

Yessir but it's good that we repost it.
 
@NCMTNS @Tex68w @vegasfj40 have you guys done the install yet? any tips? after some conversations having to give directions w/ local dealership/shops, think I'm going DIY. Its either them reading my directions ($) or me reading my directions.
 
Scotch said:
@NCMTNS @Tex68w @vegasfj40 have you guys done the install yet? any tips? after some conversations having to give directions w/ local dealership/shops, think I'm going DIY. Its either them reading my directions ($) or me reading my directions.
Click to expand...
I have not. My goal was to add Firestone rear airbags but didn't want the stink bug look when I was not towing so was going to add these front strut spacers. I also didn't want more than a 1-2" overall lift.

I have been reading about the Bilstein thread (Bilstein 6112/5160 Installed - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/bilstein-6112-5160-installed.1213812/) and may actually go this route, but without the rear springs. As mentioned I don't want much of a lift but also don't like the way the stock suspension wallows and nose dives. The Bilstein setup gives me ability to get a mild lift, adjustability and lifetime warranty. Leaning towards going with 6112/5160 and using air bags in stock rear springs. I think this will give me what I'm looking for. If I don't like the air bags I can always go with OME 2720's or Bilstein B12's in the rear. Yes, this costs more than just doing rear air bags and front strut spacer but from what I read it should give a much better ride control vs. stock suspension.
 
Anybody offer height measurements before and after front spacers installed. I am asking as I am concerned height will change enough that my LC won’t fit in garage with Yakima Ski racks attached to stock rack …currently very close with a stock suspension as it currently sits.

Spacers may make no difference on the front, just interested if it does add minimal height in the rack portion.
 
HighRanch said:
Anybody offer height measurements before and after front spacers installed. I am asking as I am concerned height will change enough that my LC won’t fit in garage with Yakima Ski racks attached to stock rack …currently very close with a stock suspension as it currently sits.

Spacers may make no difference on the front, just interested if it does add minimal height in the rack portion.
Click to expand...
The 10mm spacer adds about 20mm of vehicle height at the front axle. With the rack roughly in the middle, I’d expect it to be about 10mm higher.

You can add a little less than an inch of wood or other material under the front tires where they would be when the rack comes close to test things out.
 
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