DCADVENTURES
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In the pic you can see this bolt on the driver’s side is loose, does this simply need tightened or should there be a bushing of some kind?
Help with front suspension! (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter DCADVENTURES
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bloc
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Looks like everything is there. Personally I’d remove the nut, wire brush any rust off, and put some anti-seize on the threads before tightening. If the threads are rusty like the outside of that bolt it won’t tighten correctly without some attention.
I’d make sure that bushing is in one piece before tightening and call it good.
DCADVENTURES
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- #4
Ok thanks
It’s probably clunking at times, right? You’re literally hanging on by a thread!
In case it helps, you can better access both sides of the bolt by parking with the wheel turned fully to the left. Then tighten it down while sitting at normal drive height on the ground.
In case it helps, you can better access both sides of the bolt by parking with the wheel turned fully to the left. Then tighten it down while sitting at normal drive height on the ground.
DCADVENTURES
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- #6
I don’t think there’s a snowballs chance in hell that the bushing is still good if it’s had that much slop in it for anything length of time with that bolt bouncing around.
Probably best to buy at least that link before taking it apart to clean the bolt up, and then just swap it out
Wouldn’t hurt to buy the bolt also. Guessing the threads are damaged from bouncing around in that hole
Swaybar Hole itself might be oblonged out as well from the bolt bouncing around. I’d definitely inspect it all before just blindly tightening it
Probably best to buy at least that link before taking it apart to clean the bolt up, and then just swap it out
Wouldn’t hurt to buy the bolt also. Guessing the threads are damaged from bouncing around in that hole
Swaybar Hole itself might be oblonged out as well from the bolt bouncing around. I’d definitely inspect it all before just blindly tightening it
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agreed, i would most likely replace the links, inspect the swaybar and bolt (possibly replace the bolt) and then tighten to 103 ft-lbs, the endlink to LCA is 100 Ft-lbs.
Toyota 48804-60120 Bar, Stabilizer, Front
Toyota Land Cruiser Front Suspension Stabilizer Bar Link Kit, Left
Part Number: 48810-60060Toyota Land Cruiser Front Stabilizer Link Assembly, Passenger Side
Part Number: 48820-60082Toyota 48804-60120 Bar, Stabilizer, Front
bloc
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The sway bar itself would be fine, it's the 488A0-60010 KDSS arm that would be worn, if anything. Thinking through how mine was assembled, the bushing has an extended sleeve that fits into a depression in the other side of the KDSS arm.. that needs to be inspected.
That upper bushing doesn't have much rubber and IMO is quite tough, I'd gauge replacement need on the end of the metal sleeve and lower bushing condition. Yes the bolt and nut probably should be replaced.
Make sure whoever does this work knows how the KDSS system works and how to balance the system without letting all of the pressure out. Given the rust condition of the parts in the picture I'd say rust at the valve is a risk.
That upper bushing doesn't have much rubber and IMO is quite tough, I'd gauge replacement need on the end of the metal sleeve and lower bushing condition. Yes the bolt and nut probably should be replaced.
Make sure whoever does this work knows how the KDSS system works and how to balance the system without letting all of the pressure out. Given the rust condition of the parts in the picture I'd say rust at the valve is a risk.
Ah, yes, good catch
I priced that arm out to possibly replace it because it has a bushing in the center and I got a ton of miles.
It’s close to $900
DCADVENTURES
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- #11
Thank you for the reply. The KDSs valve is rusted bad. I have sprayed it with PBBlasted a couple times but haven’t yet tried to unscrew the valve port bots. Any tips? If lying under from drivers side do they turn counter clockwise? Any part number on the bolt and nut for the link in the front?
bloc
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Bolt: 90119-14134
Nut: 94151-21401
Driver's side sway bar link: 48810-60060
Lower bolt for that link (if you need it): 90119-14079
Note that the passenger side link is a different number.
The KDSS balance screws loosen by turning CCW like standard bolts. If yours is rusted I'd strongly advise reading about the solutions in this forum section before attacking it. If you do the wrong things you can dig the hole deeper. Primarily, make sure you get a very high quality 5mm hex bit, and know when to stop applying force. Beyond that there is great info out there about different penetrating lubricants to try, and next steps if they won't move.
That said, if you are clever with a floor jack and some wood blocks, you may be able to *CAREFULLY* support the end of the KDSS arm while changing the bolt/link and not absolutely have to open the balance screws. I personally would only try this with two jacks though.. one to support the KDSS arm, and another to manipulate the vehicle if that's needed to get the bolt to line up. Also note that if that arm comes off the jack it will go downward due to the internal valving of the KDSS system, then won't want to go back up without opening the screws.
Yes, I second this.
I changed mine without opening the valves, and it was all sorts of sketchy and in my particular situation was even dumber because I had the truck up on a lift, and my valves move freely.
I did it at the end of a LONGGG wrench day and just simply forgot to open the valves. Stupid.
Lining it up to get back together and was quite an ordeal involving prybars and wood. Would only do this as last resort and an extra set of hands.
Also, if you do get the valves free, make sure only loosen 3 turns!
If the truck is on the ground you can unbolt and swap everything with minimal effort without opening the KDSS valves. I’ve removed the bolt from the sway bar and the arm didn’t move at all.
If it’s on stands in the air, different story. In that case lots of strong ratchet straps are your friend…
If it’s on stands in the air, different story. In that case lots of strong ratchet straps are your friend…
DCADVENTURES
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- #16
Thank you! I ordered the parts and will see how it goes. Will let you know.
DCADVENTURES
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- #17
Do you think these will fit a 2016, I noticed they say up to 2011?
bloc
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I just double checked the 2016 LC parts diagram to confirm, all numbers are the same.
