Help!! Plastic Radiator Top

[Mr. Toad]

I hope it holds.

I didn't feel like screwing around with mine...

I broke mine while replacing the fan clutch...a heck of a stupid place to put a nipple and hose

I replace the entire rad...but I think it was for the best...the overheating issues I had no longer exist.

So far so good. I really don't see this failing -- the brass tube sleeves the inside of the nib and extends fully 1/3" into the radiator. The scientist in me wants to know how good the repair really is: there are products for fixing broken plastic overflow nibs, and my hack might be just as good if not better, although it serves an entirely different purpose. Theirs uses a flange on the inside of the radiator filler neck to prevent the repair piece from being blown off by the pressure -- remember, their product connects the pressurized radiator to the unpressurized overflow reservoir system. Mine doesn't need that because the pressure in the bypass #3 (and in the now-brass-sleeved nib connecting it to the radiator) should be approximately the same as the pressure in the radiator. In other words, as long as the sleeved repair part can handle the pressure from inside, it should not fail. In theory.

Nonetheless, I share your concern. More importantly, I fear my wife. And I fear what she might do should this repair fail while she's in the car or, heaven forbid, while she's driving it. So a new radiator is likely in my near future as well.

 

[Beowulf]

Linking this thread to an identical thread describing ways to repair the broken plastic nipple on the radiator.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=140895&highlight=radiator+plastic+nipple

-B-

 

[hadji_85]

would it make sense to get some of that quicksteel clay, and put it under the nipple to support it. It may not prevent it from breaking but it may make it more difficult to break.

 

[DTAYLOR]

nice work

 

[NorCalDoug]

So far so good. I really don't see this failing -- the brass tube sleeves the inside of the nib and extends fully 1/3" into the radiator. The scientist in me wants to know how good the repair really is: there are products for fixing broken plastic overflow nibs, and my hack might be just as good if not better, although it serves an entirely different purpose. Theirs uses a flange on the inside of the radiator filler neck to prevent the repair piece from being blown off by the pressure -- remember, their product connects the pressurized radiator to the unpressurized overflow reservoir system. Mine doesn't need that because the pressure in the bypass #3 (and in the now-brass-sleeved nib connecting it to the radiator) should be approximately the same as the pressure in the radiator. In other words, as long as the sleeved repair part can handle the pressure from inside, it should not fail. In theory.

Nonetheless, I share your concern. More importantly, I fear my wife. And I fear what she might do should this repair fail while she's in the car or, heaven forbid, while she's driving it. So a new radiator is likely in my near future as well.

seriously...I hope it holds...for a while anyhow. I think I'll carry some gear with me in case I need to make such a repair whilst on the road.

I was planning on swapping out my rad at some point anyhow, so I happened to have one ready to go when it happened to me.

 

[MoGas]

If you do buy a new radiator (that I think you don't need) have yours pressure tested at a radiator shop. it would be nice to get thier take on the repair.

 

[e9999]

what does this little hose do, again?

 

[MoGas]

I think it runs coolant through the throttle body so it won't freeze up.

 

[MoGas]

Coolant runs from the cylinder head to the throttle body then from the throttle body to the nipple.

 

[e9999]

so, does that mean that in warmer climates one could do without the hose altogether if the nipple breaks?

 

[MoGas]

I wouldn't run without it unless that was my only emergency fix option available.

I think that it wouldn't be a bad idea to epoxy a tube in there like that on a new radiator just to reinforce the little bastard.

 

[alkaline747trio]

You could simply plug this, and on other vehicles it is a normal mod to gain a little power (colder intake air). Cold starts would probably be harder though.

 

[e9999]

well, the cold start business is not that obvious to me, considering that if it's real cold out there and you haven't ran the engine in a while, the coolant is also cold so that should not make any difference if you have the hose or not. If you just ran it, then everything is still warm likely.

Could it be intended more to address issues of freezing in the TB when running if very cold outside, vaccuum coming into play etc?

 

[MoGas]

True, you could stand to gain 1-2 horses by not heating the throttle body. IIRC neither my Firebird Formula or my Mustang 5.0 had that on thier TBs.

 

[MoGas]

How is this holding up?

 

[MoGas]

Toad?

 

[MoGas]

Long term report?

 

[UFOBill]

First Picture shows the materials. I'm using an unshrunk section of heat shrink tubing to sleeve the outside of the repair. I cleaned everything with acetone and got ready for the glue-up.

Second Picture shows the sleeve surrounding the exposed brass shaft. I plugged the shaft and filled the sleeve with JB Weld. I couldn't find anywhere on the packaging stating that JB Weld works on plastic, but it had the highest heat tolerance of any of the epoxies at my disposal.

Third Picture shows the glue up after un-plugging the brass tube.

Tonight I'll top off the radiator and try it out. And of course report back to Mud.

Can You Tell me how everything went, as I'm in an emergency situation and $Flat$Broke$ & Must get back on the road...could you "Please" tell me, how long this lasted...???
Thank You Sooo Much My Friend...!!!
(UFOBill)~**

 

[scrowley]

Reading through this thread Toad had an great idea with the brass insert. If it happened to me....which it has. I would have taken the broke piece out, find a nail or other that fits inside the broke piece, mix up 2 part plastic epoxy or use plastic welder, line up broke piece with nail as guide, apply epoxy (or plastic weld) prop with tape or other, and let dry. I have fixed vac. parts like this before with results that lasted 30k miles or longer.

 

[IdahoDoug]

UFOB,

Details? What city? What year vehicle, etc?

DougM