I have read all the posts I can find on here about removing the oil pan and I have tried everything except an air chisel and a heat gun because I dont have either. This oil pan will not come off. I have tried using a bottle jack from different angles and leaving it for DAYS, nada. There is really not enough room to get any tools up in there to pry and I just dont know what to do. It looks like the original toyota cork gasket, and it is hard as a rock. I have no clue what to do. If anyone has any advice or techniques that would help, it would be much appreciated.
Help! Oil pan removal
- Thread starter studawg
- Start date
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had the same trouble, but it came loose pretty fast with a heat gun on my 60.
on another car i secured the oil pan to the floor with a strap, under a 2by4 and jacked the car up.
came loose deadly fast, with one hard slap on the side. almost broke my hand off, but worth it.
Was like a shotgun.
Warning, do not try this at home, should only be attempted by professional stupids. all said, now get inspired.
on another car i secured the oil pan to the floor with a strap, under a 2by4 and jacked the car up.
came loose deadly fast, with one hard slap on the side. almost broke my hand off, but worth it.
Was like a shotgun.
Warning, do not try this at home, should only be attempted by professional stupids. all said, now get inspired.
i said you should not do this.
but if you do, isn't there a skid plate on the 2f oil pan?
Vice grip, chains m.m.m.m.m
Get your OEM bottle jack and 2ft piece of scrap 2x4. Place the 2x4 along the oil pan to spread the load. find a spot against the frame for the jack and extend the jack into the 2x4 try and get this as close to the bottom of the pan as possible. Apply force to the pan slowly and whack the 2x4 with a hammer and the pan will come off just take your time. having another set of hands to help you get started with the jack and 2x4 is a great help but not required.
Get your OEM bottle jack and 2ft piece of scrap 2x4. Place the 2x4 along the oil pan to spread the load. find a spot against the frame for the jack and extend the jack into the 2x4 try and get this as close to the bottom of the pan as possible. Apply force to the pan slowly and whack the 2x4 with a hammer and the pan will come off just take your time. having another set of hands to help you get started with the jack and 2x4 is a great help but not required.
Exactly what he said - maybe add some heat too.
I'm just north of Greenville in TR - shoot me a PM if you want any help.
Go around it (Carefully )with a putty knife and break it loose. MIke
I've never taken the oil pan off my I-6 when I had the stock engine...but do you not have any room to use a small hammer and puttly knife or other similar tool and use the hammer to force the tool between the pan and the block...a little bit at a time....
I know that when you are talking about some of those things that have been "glued" together for 20+ years its a royal pain to get them apart.
I have used the above method on other similar jobs.
Of course after you have removed all the bolts that secure the oil pan first.
I know that when you are talking about some of those things that have been "glued" together for 20+ years its a royal pain to get them apart.
I have used the above method on other similar jobs.
Of course after you have removed all the bolts that secure the oil pan first.
35inchoverdrive
Forge Specialties
Just keep puting additional tension on it. If you've left it for days and it hasn't come lose, then just put some more tension on it with the jack. Repeat until done.
- Thread starter
- #10
thanks for all the help. I went to harbor freight tools today and bought a heat gun, a rubber mallet, a crow bar, and a couple putty knives. All for $20!!! Going to tackle it again tomorrow. 
Nice, 20 BUCKS? Now you can open the business of gasket removal!! Good luck!
(i used the heat gun pretty hard, the paint on the oil pan crimped and burned off. Go at it!
(i used the heat gun pretty hard, the paint on the oil pan crimped and burned off. Go at it!
- Thread starter
- #12
Still no success. Question: what am I actually trying to accomplish with the heat gun? Am I trying to melt the old adhesive used from the factory? Am I trying to expand the metal of the pan so it breaks the seal itself? There are only a few places where I can actually get anything on the gasket. The putty knife is absolutely useless. I have jacked the vehicle up at the frame to let the axle hang down, but dont find this any easier than just jacking at the axle. There is just no room to work under there. Even if the engine was out and upside down I think it would take hours to get this thing off. I think there is a huge variation in the amount of effort required to remove one of these depending on if it has been replaced before.
Don't take this the wrong way ... are all the bolts off?
Double check that all bolts are off. I helped with removing a pan a few days ago and two bolts were still in - took 'em out and she came off much easier.
- Thread starter
- #15
I was beginning to wonder the same thing myself, and yes, all 22 bolts are out. I have it jacked from the passenger side, heating with the heat gun and then hammering a pry bar inbetween and nothing is happening.
You may be working to gently,the pan can handle some pretty good blows esp. if you hit it with a 2-4-between the hammer and the pan. Mike
i used the heat gun on the flat surface where the nuts and bolts go in. i figure then both the pan and the block itself gets all the heat.
By doing this, you basically toast the material in between, and the gluing material should stop gluing.
Excuse my bad norwegian-english...
This is my method on all pans, gaskets and stuff, and should work.
I pry a flat screw driver in, and then the crowbar when i get enough opening.
This worked on a BIG john deere engine, should work on yours.
Sometimes space is limited, and you'll have to make a steel extension on the heat gun, as you need to get it pretty hot.
Hope any of this helps, been in your boat a few times, its aggravating not getting this done...
By doing this, you basically toast the material in between, and the gluing material should stop gluing.
Excuse my bad norwegian-english...
This is my method on all pans, gaskets and stuff, and should work.
I pry a flat screw driver in, and then the crowbar when i get enough opening.
This worked on a BIG john deere engine, should work on yours.
Sometimes space is limited, and you'll have to make a steel extension on the heat gun, as you need to get it pretty hot.
Hope any of this helps, been in your boat a few times, its aggravating not getting this done...
I use a 1-1/2" wood chisel and a medium size ball peen hammer. This works on everything from oil pans to diff covers. Just hammer it in, wiggle it out, move a little and repeat.
- Thread starter
- #19
FINALLY! I got it off. I used the heat gun so much that it gave out right when I got it off. I wish it hadnt, because I need it to remove the gasket material from the block and pan. Oh well, at least it's off. Thanks for the help.
Great, now come do mine! MIke