Help needed FJ40 paint. (1 Viewer)

Joined
Jun 22, 2013
Messages
570
Hi Corbet
The look I want?
This is a high end rebuild BUT I am building the 40 series to use.
When finished early next year I hope I plan to do a round Australia trip towing a small van.
I do plan to take her off road but not hard core stuff. I will leave that up to the youngsters.
So the finish I'm after needs to be Tuff and scratch resistant but I know I will get stone chips and a dent here and there so a finish that can be touched up would be nice.
Am I asking to much here.
Cheers


...via IH8MUD app
 
Joined
Oct 22, 2002
Messages
4,495
Location
Durango, Colorado
If you want something easy to touch up I'd go with a single stage something. You can get most any color you want in a single. Your not limited to the OEM basic M&M colors.
 
Joined
Jun 22, 2013
Messages
570
Hi all
When the masses are talking single stage are you talking 2 PAC ? Or a solvent based paint?
Cheers


...via IH8MUD app
 
Joined
Jun 22, 2013
Messages
570
Hi sscr
Nice paint work.
Using Enamel paint did you have to bake it ?
Is this paint like the early model VW Beatle ? I remember the sales pitch Baked Enamel Finish.
If so that paint was tuff.
Sorry for asking all these questions but there is quite a bit to take in here for a novice.
Cheers


...via IH8MUD app
 
Joined
Oct 7, 2011
Messages
1,020
Location
Austin TX
If you go single stage, use a high end urethane, not an enamel. Enamels fade pretty quickly. Single stage just means you mix a catalyst with the paint, and some reducer and shoot it on. No follow up clear coat. A good quality single stage urethane will maintain a nice sheen for a lot of years. You also can't beat an epoxy primer under the paint. I like to scuff the epoxy with some wet-dry 400 sandpaper right before applying the color coat.
 
Joined
May 7, 2006
Messages
4,901
Location
erie pa
i use single stage on my own stuff to be period correct .it takes about 2 gallons of paint to do a whole cruiser in and out and will leave a bit for touch up .i get the single stage off of ebay from the same guy all the time and its held up well for 70.00 a gallon .if i give him the nos he mixes it for me good luck
 
Joined
Aug 2, 2014
Messages
125
Location
Watertown, NY
I used a krylon single stage rattle can flat olive drab on a 40 I had in Alaska. It was great. Scratches and chips came right out with a respray in my garage lol. Beyond that the one I own now has a clear on it that's about four years old. It's not bad but it ain't in great shape. For your purposes a high quality single stage is probably best to maintain originality and for some durability. After your trip you can always take it back into a shop and have them buff it and fix paint chips. At least here that wouldn't run more than about $400 bucks, and you can be happy with your paint again. Me. I am going back to rattle can Krylon. It's too easy to clean it up, and if any rust ever starts peaking through its no problem to sand, prime, and spray again!
 
Joined
Jun 22, 2013
Messages
570
Hi all
The advice here is amazing .
Am I right to say.
Single stage paint.
The gloss finish that can toned up or down , the durability, quality and the hardness of the paint are all characteristic of the brand, make and type of the paint used.
Single stage paint can be as simple as a rattle can through to enamel or a high end urethane mixed with a catalyst and thinned with a reducer.
Advantages of single stage finish is the ease of touch up in the advent of stone chips plus minor scratching can be polished out.
Surface preparation.
1 Eitch prime . Solvent or catalyst based . I have used catalyst. Sand with 80 through to 250 grit.
Stone guard can be applied over Eitch primer.
2 Spray putty undercoat . Still looking into this one . Sand with 500 to 600 grit.
3 Top coat.

Two Stage
Surface preparation.
1 Eitch prime . Solvent or catalyst based . I have used catalyst. Sand with 80 through to 250 grit.
Stone guard can be applied over Eitch primer.
2 Spray putty undercoat . Sand with 500 to 600 grit.
3 Colour coat can be toned up of down.
4 Finish coat is a hard clear .
Advantages ? I can see merits here for show cars or a trailer show FJ40 . My 40 is being built to be used.

Is what I am saying correct?

If so I will take my newly gained knowledge to the Paint and Panel shop on Monday.
Thank you all for your input.
Cheers






...via IH8MUD app
 
Joined
Oct 7, 2011
Messages
1,020
Location
Austin TX
I prefer catalyzed epoxy rather than self-etching primer as the base. It is harder than self-etching and waterproof and helps to prevent rust ever forming under the new paint. I don't believe any other type of primer is actually waterproof. I have never heard rattle can paint referred to as single stage, but I guess it sort of is a single application type of paint. Normally a single stage paint would be one that has a catalyst to harden it. I think you would be happier with a high end (not cheap) urethane single stage in the long run. Dupont is generally high end, Nason is a step down, but still a good brand. You don't absolutely need a sandable primer coat under the paint if you use the epoxy primer and do some light wet sanding on it to give it some "tooth" for the top coat to stick to. I only use high build sandable primers on my street cars that have to be absolutely perfect on the finish coat, and for those cars, I generally go base coat/clear coat (2 stage) to get the shiniest finish. For an FJ40, the super shiny finish might look a little "off".
 
Joined
Jun 22, 2013
Messages
570
Hi DougAustinTx
Thank you for the clarification on the rattle cans.
This is were I'm at .
The body has been stripped back to bare metal or in the case of the Tub inside and underneath all the Toyota Tar for want of a better name has been removed using a hot air gun and citrus cleaner.
This has left the Toyota grey put there from new when dipped mostly in tact.
The complete tub was then washed in a grease and wax remover.
A product called EpoTec Primer Surfacer was applied at a mix of 4 to 1 with reducer added to the mark as on the mixing jar.
Epo Tec Primer Surfacer is widely used here in Brisbane Australia. And is compatible with the DuPont range of finishers.
I'm told Stone Guard can be applied over the Epo Tec. This will be applied to the inside and underside of the tub.

My question is now that I have sanded the Tub/ doors / side panels , Etc with 250 grit I find I have small defects and scratches to fix.
Not a lot but I need to attend to before the next stage. What do I use?
AND
Yes a Super Shinny finish I think would NOT look to good.
So in painting terms what is the name of the finish that would be suitable for a Forty series?
What do I ask the Paint and Panel shop for?

The painter doing the top coat is known for his show car work and is the best in the area.
How ever mine is not a show car and I want practical over show car. This would be the reason he wanted to clear coat.
There is a lot to this painting stuff.
Give me mechanical any day.
I thank you for your help.
Cheers



...via IH8MUD app
 
Joined
May 8, 2014
Messages
939
Location
Cooktown, Queensland
I have enjoyed watching this thread as it gives me insight into what to do with Jade. Once you work it all out Bambi let me know what you use please. I like you want an original looking finish.
 
Joined
Feb 20, 2009
Messages
489
Location
Adelaide, South Australia
My 2c -

I'm going to rhino line my underside, and floor.

I'm a long way from paint, but will consider top coating the freeborn red over the to of the rhino lining.

Dan
 
Joined
Jun 22, 2013
Messages
570
Hi Ken
No problem yes I will post my findings.
This panel work and painting is a big job and bigger than I expected .
I get 4 to 5 days every week to play Toyota , that is when I'm in Australia and I have been working the body for 6 months now.
As a novice I know I'm slow and I keep asking my self is this a one off or do I use my new found skills and tools and do another build when this one is finished.
Let me thinking about this one.
I found a great new tool on my last trip.
It's a sand blasting gun with its own sand Tank attached. This will be a good tool to sand those hard to get places.
I will take a photo and post in Toyota 40 tools.
Cheers






...via IH8MUD app
 
Joined
Jun 22, 2013
Messages
570
Hi Dan
I don't know about Rino Line ?
How ,What , Were and when.
As my mother would say " it's a sad day when you don't learn any thing"
Please tell me more?
Cheers



...via IH8MUD app
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom