Help needed FJ40 paint. (1 Viewer)

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Jun 22, 2013
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Hi Ken
This would be a great hobby if work would not keep getting in the way.
Cheers


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Joined
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Peter,

Rhino lining is an industrial coating that protects, and helps prevent corrosion.

It's not stock, and doesn't look it, but you're going to all that trouble, you'd be wise to investigate - especially with your round Aust trip.
 
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Oh man I've been down that rabbit hole... U just added a whole slew of choices: Rhino, raptor, Line-x, etc etc!
 
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EpoTek appears to be an epoxy primer, so you're golden there. If you have heavy sanding scratches still visible after applying the EpoTek then you will need to prime over it with a high build primer to give you something to sand off to level the scratches. I like to wet sand right before painting with 400 grit 3M wet-dry paper. On flat areas, you'll use a sanding block with the paper to eliminate waves and dips. Then wipe the panel with a damp cloth and look for imperfections while the panel is still damp. The wet gloss will help you see places that still need to be sanded. There should be no obvious sanding scratches when you are finished with the wet sanding with the 400. Personally, I don't see any need to sand with 600 grit, plus I like to have a little of the "tooth" of the top coat to bind to. As to what to tell the shop that you want, it sounds like you have opted for the single stage, so just tell them you want an OEM color (whatever color you want) in a high quality single stage urethane. I agree with the others who have said you'll probably use almost two gallons of the color coat if you do the inside, outside, and the underside of the fenders. You should have a little left over for touchups if you get nicks. Good luck.
 
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Hi all , Dan and DougAustintx
First hi Dan .
Rhino Liner . I googled this and it seems head office is here in Brisbane.
My concern using a product like this would be how do you repair if damaged? Plus what happens if water gets in between the Urethane and the tub?
I don't know Dan I would have to give this one more research.

Hi Doug
Thank you for your last lot of info .
High build primer is what the paint and panel man said. Is this product two pack?

I know this is a real novice question.
Wet sand . I have not googled this but thinking you mean wet the paper by dipping into a bucket or do you need a hose and slight mist of water.

I fully understand what you are saying about the highs and lows when wet.

Were you able to figure out what luster the final coat should be?

No Toyota work today, as today is the day of the Great Race . The Bathurst 1000 klm
161 laps of pure excitement .
Today is the battle between Ford and Holden ( GM ) although this year they have let Nissan and Volvo enter.
Go The Fords
Cheers




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Yes, wet sanding is having a bowl or bucket to clean the paper in. Keep the surface wet while sanding, then wipe it off with a very clean rag as you go. I try to keep people's hands off the surface to minimize body oils getting into the primer and causing problems. High build primer can be either stand-alone (lacquer based) or catalyzed. Either way it dries really fast and can be wet sanded the same day. The luster of the final color coat is a function of the paint you buy and the way it is sprayed, and to some extent, the ambient temperature and the reducer used. It will ordinarily dry to a nice, smooth moderately shiny finish that will approximate the sheen the 40 had when it was brand new. But your new paint, if properly primed with the epoxy primer, will likely last way better than the original Toyota paint.
 
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Hi DougAustinTx
Thank you for your reply.
Work has been getting in the way of my project.
I will get to the paint shop later this week and with my new found knowledge from your self I will discuss my project.
I will post my results .
Once again thanks.
Cheers


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Joined
Jun 22, 2013
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Hi All
Got the Stone Guard on today.
Fun stuff to paint and goes every were.
Painted the underside first and let dry before doing the tub.
Before and after photo.
Cheers
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1413863928.875119.jpg
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1413863949.125321.jpg



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Looks good are you going to top coat the stone guard with the same color as the rest of the tub. What did it cost for the stone guard. Not sure if I am going to go the same way or just spray the interior.
 
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Jun 22, 2013
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Hi Ken
Stone guard
6 tubes for $100.00
Very happy with the finish Ken.
I will top coat red of course.
I gave a lot of thought before applying stone guard to the inside of the tub but all the so called experts who come look at my project all said Stone guard solvent based. So Stone Guard it was.
From original the inside of the tub had black tar insulation painted Red.
I did a spray test run on scrap and then tried to sand blast . It stood up well. But I only have a small sand blast gun.
I have ordered the top Colour and by chance or good luck I have found a spray booth I can push the tub too.
Only 3 doors down.
Painting set down for next Tuesday .
Cheers


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Good luck with the painting. Is it Freeborn Red that you are painting it. What did the experts say about moisture getting trapped under the stone guard. I have heard that this can occur and cause more rust to come through. Cant wait to see the pics of the tub painted. Are you doing it yourself??
 
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Hi Ken
Yes Freeborn Red is the chosen Colour.
Stone guard.
This is the same product as sprayed to the underside of mudguards as on modern cars.
If the surface prep is good this stuff sticks but it's only a thin coat and I can not see how rust could get underneath but time will tell .

Paint myself ! A big no way.
Yes I will post photos of the finished paint job.
May even open a tinny to mark the event.
Cheers


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Major Nelson

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Single stage tends to be a little cheaper on the labor at the body shop as well. If/when I respray I'll definitely be going single stage. Love the look of it on these rigs...agree clear coat doesn't look right to me.
 
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Hi Major Nelson
Hi all
Yes single stage is the go.
The painter and panel shop say 5 litre of paint .
Mudders say 2 gallon roughly 8 to 9 litre.
Does single stage spray thinner thus more coverage and less paint?
Also to all paint whiz kids out there I'm told that using the computerised paint mixing system I can reproduce the Colour exactly again In 6 months / 1, 2 ,3 years ? All I need is my Colour number?
Is this correct?
Thank you all for your input.
Cheers



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Hi all
I'm very close to top coating the FJ40.
My questions
1 Paint finish . The paint and panel shop are saying a Two PAC is the way to go with a gloss coat over the top.
In the tub preparation I have made sure all the spot welds will show as per factory. I'm worried if I go modern car gloss this will look not good.
What are the Mudders thoughts on this?
What paint brand and sheen is popular here on mud?
2 This is a complete re spray as in both sides of All panels and Tub.
How much paint is required?
Thank you for your help
Cheers View attachment 951083



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The fixture the tub is sitting on. Is it just a support or can you rotate the tub on it? Curious about the CG of the bare tub.
 
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The fixture the tub is sitting on. Is it just a support or can you rotate the tub on it? Curious about the CG of the bare tub.
Hi
The tub is on a rotisserie
A must have for a frame off rebuild.
I brought mine new and sold it at a profit when the tub was painted.
Cheers
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1439113696.018985.jpg



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Hi
The tub is on a rotisserie
A must have for a frame off rebuild.
I brought mine new and sold it at a profit when the tub was painted.
Cheers
View attachment 1117784


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Thank you, this old retired tooling engineer would love to see more pictures of this fixture, something that would allow me to better evaluate the center of gravity for rotation control. I have designed fixtures, on the computer of course, rotating heavy aircraft subassemblies and the component could be rotated with a finger. No access to the computer anymore as I am retired and living in South America. I agree, this fixture is the way to go. I have seen a couple of places down here painting tubs and it is truly blacksmith work.
 
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Hi Mr retired tool fitter
I thought along your lines of building a rotating thing but for $700.00 new not worth the worry.
Plus I sold it after the job had finished for a profit.
My retirement is playing with the 40 series as I have had a life time of playing machinist.
Enjoy your forty
Cheers Peter


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