Help! My LC won't quit beeping! (1 Viewer)

[Copenhagen1]

Read this:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/458779-abs-problem-help-please.html

and these:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/377349-brakeless-wonder.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series...eeded-abs-brake-vsc-light-up-alarm-sound.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series...booster-etc-1998-lc-2-300-part-tax-labor.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/167702-abs-brake-light-alarm-sounding-98-lc.html

 

[xumFJ40]

Ok,

So I did some research (Thnz Copenhagen1)...and I ended up following the manual diagnostic jumper procedure.

I was able to get one code by that method...code: 56 based on the flashing lights....which I was able to track down to:

56
Detection Item: Accumulator low pressure malfunction
Trouble Area: Accumulator Pressure switch (PH or PL) Hydraulic brake booster pump motor

So...I went ahead and took the truck down to the dealer that I have used in the past on a couple of occasions.

They thanked me for the info, and then said that they needed to do their own diagnosis.

Next day the report I got was that they were able to pull 4 codes:

C1223, C1251, C1252, C1256

I am assuming that the C1256 code is the same "56" code that I was able to pull, but don't know why the manual procedure would not produce the other three....

Anyway, long story short, they want to replace the whole "assembly" as others have mentioned on this board @ at cost of $3,100!!!!




Which is $2600 for "Brake cylinder assembly" (47050 - 60042) and 5 hrs of labor.

So what I can gather from looking into this the codes that they pulled are:
Code 23
Open or short circuit in solenoid for right rear wheel. Check actuator solenoid, wiring harness and connector.

Code 51
Actuator pump motor is locked or pump motor circuit open. Check pump motor, pump motor relay, vehicle battery, actuator wiring harness, connectors, actuator pump motor circuit and actuator ground bolt.

Code 52
Detection Item: Hydraulic brake booster pump motor malfunction
Trouble Area: Hydraulic brake booster pump motor Hydraulic brake booster pump motor circuit Pressure switch (PH or PL)

Alright, so I have two codes that are general to the pump motor and two that reference a harness, connector or short….

1)Is there a procedure for verifying that it is not the harness before I replace the entire deal?

2)How difficult is it to replace the entire unit?...does it merit 5 hrs of work, or is this something that I can do myself?

 

[Timberdoodle]

Unfortunately, I think the dealer you're dealing with is trying to gouge you. I don't know exactly which codes I had, but I had the exact same intermittent problem as you. My mechanic determined that I definitely had a problem with the accumulator, so I ordered a master cylinder / accumulator kit from Cruiser Dan. The kit was $1,699.92 shipped and the mechanic's labor to install it was 3 hours; his bill (including new bake fluid) was $196.87.

Interstingly, before I had a chance to tell my mechanic that I could get the kit from Cruiser Dan at a discounted price, he contacted the local Toyota dealer about ordering the parts. They failed to tell him that the master cylinder and and accumulator could be ordered as a kit at a substantial savings. Instead, they quoted him two separate prices totalling, if I recall, around $2,600. Not sure if they didn't know you could order them as a kit, or if they were trying to gouge him. Probably the latter.

 

[Timberdoodle]

I just checked my bill from Cruiser Dan and it indicates that I received Part Number 47050-60043. The description is "Cylinder A," which may be cylinder assembly cut short? The list price was $2,209.63 and my cost was $1,657.22.

I would definitely recommend ordering from Dan. He was pleasant to deal with & got the parts ordered & shipped right away.

 

[TMILL]

I found a complete used unit at a junk yard for $275 so figure it was worth a shot. Install was easy and took about an hour and a half including bleeding the system... That was back in Nov '08 and been good since. Hope I didn't just curse myself!!

 

[Copenhagen1]

Are you handy with a wrench?

If so I would pull the unit myself. Once you have it out, the issue you have is with the pump. Look very closely at the 2 wire terminals on that pump. I think it is common for them to corrode like a battery terminal. Not sure you can fix it but if you can put 12v to it and it "pumps" then you have won half the battle.

My brother ordered a used one for his truck. He asked for his old one back and started "fiddling" with it in his shop. He was able to repair the corrosion somehow and now has a backup unit.

He was pissed that he didn't do it himself the first time. He said that most but not all mechanics out there are not mechanics. They are "part changers". They read a code and replace a part. They never try to repair the part without buying a new one.

Good luck.

 

[Landbender]

Ok Gents need to see if anyone has come across this issue, and if so, what I have in store...

The truck is a 2001 LC w/ 170K on it....

While driving on the highway yesterday about 60mph I experienced a weird issue.

The ABS, VSC TRAC, VSC OFF, and Brake lights on the dash all illuminated and a constant beeping noise came from the dash. This lasted only about 10 seconds, then the beep & all lights turned off.

While this was going on, the truck behaved normally, RPMs remained constant, and acceleration was not effected (i.e. not limp mode).

The truck sat in the driveway overnight and then this morning when I go to move the care, as soon as I turn it on (acc or engine start) It experiences the same issue...the four lights & the beeping noise....only it does not stop after a short period of time.

I have not tried driving it yet, I thought I would do a search first, but didn't come up w/anything. So far I have let it beep at me for about 1 min, without it quitting.

My drive way is on a slight (maybe 5°) incline, but obviously in both the highway & driveway case, there is no reason for the VSC TRAC to engage...

Also, I have had the truck engage "Limp mode" in the past, maybe 3 times...each time turning the truck off, and restarting has corrected the issue...and I don't recall a beep when that happened previously.

Any experience w/this? Any ideas other than trying to pull the codes?

Thanks,

Ryan

Have you reset the computer yet? Just disconnect the battery for around 10min and if there is still a problem the lights will come back on otherwise you should be fine, but I'd definitely keep an eye on it. And the clock will reset to 12:00 when the computer resets.
I did this on mine when I forgot to connect the mass air flow sensor back in.

 

[FXR UPR]

If your accumulator motor for the abs system quits then there is no brake boost pressure in the braking system. I had the same C1256 code in my 100. replaced accumulator assembly. all good.

 

[APKhaos]

If you can afford the extra time:
- Get the ABS module out first, then separate the ABS pump motor
- Rebuild it/have it rebuilt; new bearing and brushes, refresh or replace the commutator. [Search this - its been done recently for less than $200]
- Also check/repair the terminals that Copenhagen1 mentions above. Good tip!
- Replace the rebuilt pump motor, replace the ABS module. Flush the brake system with new fluid and bleed.

The Benz ML series has a similar brake system with a similar problem, except the pump motor comes out easily without pulling the entire module and opening the hydraulic circuits. Fixed mine with new brushes and bearings. <$50 fix vs $2300 replacement module - win!!

Whatever you do get it fixed immediately. Others have described complete brake failure when the hundy ABD module finally fails. You do not want to take that risk.