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- #21
yup..
Help me plan for a 2FE
- Thread starter RockDoc
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yup..
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- #22
Labeled the pushrods, but not the bolts. Took a look at them coming out, and I couldn't tell any difference in length between the ones that went through the rear hook, and those that didn't. No front hook on the engine.
I think one of the pushrods might be pooched. #6 exhaust (where the retainer for the spring on the rocker shaft was missing) looks like it rubbed the head casting some and is a touch worn.
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- #23
Can you use one of these for the re-torque after the engines been run for a few hours, or does it put the bolt and the driver out of alignment?
Yeppers just make sure it is a good quality..or not to soft the crows foot that is.
lolz...the driver is hopeless
lolz...the driver is hopeless
Don't worry if you need to find replacement pushrods. New ones aren't very expensive and are available from Clevite.
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- #26
Well, it is hanging up about half an inch off of one of the thermostat housing bolts from a high-lift right now. Hopefully when I go back out to the garage, it will have separated, and everything will have settled down nicely. The manifold side has separated, but the plug side is being stubborn.
The push rods wear into the rocker arms and the lifters leaving a "seat". The FSM says never to mix them up. Most will tell you to never mix them up.
What will happen if you mix them up?
The push rods will wear into the rocker arms and the lifters leaving a new pattern or "seat". Adjust the valves a few times at 500mile intervals and you are good. The valves will get looser as the wear happens so there is no real risk of burning a valve.
What will happen if you mix them up?
The push rods will wear into the rocker arms and the lifters leaving a new pattern or "seat". Adjust the valves a few times at 500mile intervals and you are good. The valves will get looser as the wear happens so there is no real risk of burning a valve.
Honstly Dan I have never chance it so I dont know what would happen.
The wear is so minimal that is cannot be measured with common feeler gauges.
It is sorta like lapping valves. Is there wear? Yes. Can it be measured? Not really. Can it be seen? Yes.
I don't make it a habit to mix them up but if you think about it, the new from Toyota push rod rods are doing the exact same thing. Wearing new seats.
It is sorta like lapping valves. Is there wear? Yes. Can it be measured? Not really. Can it be seen? Yes.
I don't make it a habit to mix them up but if you think about it, the new from Toyota push rod rods are doing the exact same thing. Wearing new seats.
I didn't mark them (pushrods) when I did the camshaft this time last year. The reground lifters didn't comeback marked with where they went so who knows where each one was riding. I took them out, replaced the cam and put them back in with no particular order. That said, after 4000 miles, I need to adjust the valves pretty soon.
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- #31
Well at any rate, the pushrods have been kept in order.
What about the lifters? Obviously you want to keep them in order if they are going back in as they are, but if they are sent out to be reground, are the push rod ends left untouched (so they should go back in as they came out)?
What about the lifters? Obviously you want to keep them in order if they are going back in as they are, but if they are sent out to be reground, are the push rod ends left untouched (so they should go back in as they came out)?
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- #32
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- #33
Okay, I finally got the head off, should have looked in the FSM to begin with 
Here's what I've found underneath. All cylinders look pretty much the same. Cross hatching visible, light scoring (barely perceptible with your fingernail, not enough to catch, just enough to know it's there). Going to head over to Marshall's rainbow build to compare to his photos and course of action, but I'm expecting the right thing to do is to have a machine hone done and re-ring.
Here's what I've found underneath. All cylinders look pretty much the same. Cross hatching visible, light scoring (barely perceptible with your fingernail, not enough to catch, just enough to know it's there). Going to head over to Marshall's rainbow build to compare to his photos and course of action, but I'm expecting the right thing to do is to have a machine hone done and re-ring.
What were the comression numbers before you started?
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- #35
Unknown, it sat in a shed for several years before I picked it up. Among other things, the starter had be stripped off, but it was free.
I'm planning to tear it down to balance, re-ring and install new bearings anyway, so I didn't worry about it. I did notice when I was turning the crank to ensure it wasn't seized that the valves for different cylinders weren't sealing equally (big change in resistance to turning, and the hiss or puff coming out of the ports).
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not bad at all doc
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- #37
Am I wrong in thinking a machine honing is pretty cheap? I need to look through the FSM some more, but I'm assuming I can do the main and rod bearings myself, but would need to take it in to have the cam bearings done. Is it typical to need the cam bearings done on a rebuild? I plan to send the cam and lifters off for a re-grinding if that makes a difference.
I figure on doing the piston/rod balancing myself. With the straight 6 having the rod assemblies spread evenly around the 360* of the crank, does it need to have weights attached to balance the rotating assembly? Or can you balance the harmonic balancer + crank + driveplate/ring gear "naked" and assume that with the rods/bearings/pistons/rings properly balanced, they won't affect the rotating balance? Anything else that should be attached for balance (crank pulley)? Does the fluid filling of the torque convertor add any balancing effect (like dynabeads or fluid in tires)?
I figure on doing the piston/rod balancing myself. With the straight 6 having the rod assemblies spread evenly around the 360* of the crank, does it need to have weights attached to balance the rotating assembly? Or can you balance the harmonic balancer + crank + driveplate/ring gear "naked" and assume that with the rods/bearings/pistons/rings properly balanced, they won't affect the rotating balance? Anything else that should be attached for balance (crank pulley)? Does the fluid filling of the torque convertor add any balancing effect (like dynabeads or fluid in tires)?
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I'm wondering what would cause that scuff in the same place in every cylinder.
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- #39
Each cylinder is scuffed on both sides of the cyl (3 and 9 o'clock), some are lighter and the scuffing ends lower (not as high as the rings ride). Hopefully when I pull the pistons/rods it will be apparent. Like Marshal noticed with his, the marks show up much clearer in the photos than they do to the eye, and they are BARELY perceptible with the fingernail.
Do the rings stay pretty stationary once they are installed? Or do the rotate around the piston some? Would carbon get worked down between the rings and forced to 3 and 9 o'clock by any rocking motion of the piston? Poor air filtration letting in some dust?
Do the rings stay pretty stationary once they are installed? Or do the rotate around the piston some? Would carbon get worked down between the rings and forced to 3 and 9 o'clock by any rocking motion of the piston? Poor air filtration letting in some dust?
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Aligned rings would not cause that scuffing.
The rings float and rotate on the pistons. These are not Pinned rings, meaning there is not a piston ring locating pin like the rings in the piston of a 2-cycle. Sometime in the life of the engine, those ring will be lined up.
The rings float and rotate on the pistons. These are not Pinned rings, meaning there is not a piston ring locating pin like the rings in the piston of a 2-cycle. Sometime in the life of the engine, those ring will be lined up.
