Help!! I'm Irate!! Ignition Trouble... (2 Viewers)

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Intermittent malfunctions in the security systems are extremely difficult to diagnose. The same behavior can be caused by a multitude of things and when it only happens some of the time- it is a 'who knows' problem. BMW bought back a lot of $100K 7 series cars because they could not fix them or even diagnose what was wrong. One model year had 7 different 'security systems', and the next year they were all different. Pitty the poor Techs who get blamed for factory blockhead decisions.
 
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Hey Everyone -

I thought I'd follow this one up for the benefit of anyone else who has to go through the frustration of this problem. A local garage finally figured this out - it was nothing more than dirty contacts in the fuse box. Once those were cleaned up, we haven't had a problem for the past 6 months.
 
Thanks for documenting this issue, it's inevitable that someone, somewhere, sometime will benefit from your torturous experience.
 
Thank you all so much for this thread! It really saved me today.

I was stranded at the gas station with the security light flashing and the engine turning over, but not firing. Replaced the key battery, with no luck. Ended up getting tugged out of the way into a parking space and she started back up. Stopped at my next appointment and no start again. I borrowed their Internet, found this thread and replaced the EFI Fuse under the hood. Seems to have fixed the problem so far. The old fuse was ok according to my meter, but one of the legs was thinner and darker than the other leg. The relay spades looked fine.

I'll keep you posted, but the security light goes off way more reliably now than it was doing earlier today. Wow...if that was it and the new fuse holds up, this is major money and frustration saved.

Make sure you have spare Fuses...could save you one day.

Free drinks for Pants if you're ever down my way. Thanks again for sharing your misery.
 
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Can someone explain which is the EFI relay and which is the EFI fuse?
 
The relay is a black square about the size of an ice cube sticking into a socket. The fuse is a yellow plastic thing with two metal blades sticking into a different socket. Both are in the fuse box under the hood.
 
In driveway, won't start, just cranks. Key immobilizer light stays blinking. My mobile mechanic friend came over today. He checked everything related, including fuses and ignition; they checked fine. But, no signal from computer; he couldn't connect his diagnostic computer to it. He feels certain the ECU computer is dead. So, I need to tow it to dealer.

130,000 miles, dead computer.....wtf...$:bang:$

Any advice appreciated,
Perk
 
OK, before ripping into other more spendy spots, it might be worth looking at something simpler as a cause. I'm agreeing with ZJ2UZJ100's lines of though on this one.

From your description's, none of your keys are being recognized. None will start the engine even though they all operate the ignition lock cylinder.
- Each of the keys carries an RFID chip that is read by an antenna coil located around the ignition lock area.
- If the antenna coil, or the signal that drives it, has failed then it will not recognize any key. Its also likely that there may not be an Immobilizer signal set. If no key is detected, that logic may not be active.
So, its possible that it may be as simple as replacing the coil. At very least the first step should be to test that the coil is functioning. It would be bad juju if the ECU is replaced only to find that the key detection coil itself is faulty.
 
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I'm having the same problem. Thought it was the ECU, but it seems more like it's a wiring issue. Been to the dealer twice. First time they found there was no signal from the ECU when they plugged in their scanner. They replaced a corroded battery cable. Started fine for several weeks after that, then failed to start out of the blue again one day. I plugged in my OBD scanner and there was no signal from the ECU. Towed back to dealer and once it was there, started fine. It's really chapping my hide b/c I basically can not drive anywhere where a tow truck isn't a quick phone call away. Someone help!!!
 
Same fix

Had same problem about a month ago. Mechanic had it for 4 days..finally came down to fuse box. Replaced for 1k.
 
Dealer replaced fuel relay because it started when bypassed. Less then one week back and it's doing the same thing again. Towing it back to the dealer. Any advice appreciated.
 
perk said:
Dealer replaced fuel relay because it started when bypassed. Less then one week back and it's doing the same thing again. Towing it back to the dealer. Any advice appreciated.

I started having a similar problem after I got a new key chain...my fob was a little further away from the column and it would not start until my hand shook the fob while I would crank it in frustration. This was the all metal key. The other original key with the chip inside always starts it.
 
This will come off a bit vague as it was a while back but I had an aftermarket alarm installed around the same time my ignition cylinder shaft broke. I also had the flashing red security light problem and could not use the door locks in my LX.

Now I realize the LX is slightly different but the problem area for me is an identical LC part. There was a wire that was not soldered well on the ignition cylinder and when the shaft was repaired the wire/solder was compromised. My mechanic who is a service manager for Mr T said he sees this frequently on these ignitions. He went back in and repaired the wire connection and I've been home free since.

Just one more spot to look but I figure it's worth tossing out there. It DID get rid of my security light issues.
 
I've been fighting the same issue for the last year. We had the dealer diagnose a bad fuse box. Troubleshoot, remove/replace same came to $910.00. So far so good....
 
Dealer has now determined fuse box is bad. They're at least crediting me the earlier work and taking 20 percent off of the fuse box. but it's still costing over $800. Dealer rep says the original fuse box is not a Toyota part. I'm at least the third case of bad fuse box!?!
 
Does a new fuse box fix this problem? I have been battling this for the past year or so.

A couple of observations.....first, my problem seems to be worse during the summer as the fuse needs to be replaced about once a month. I went all winter without replacing it until yesterday. Second my fuse socket is chared looking. I've had to break the tabs off around the fuse socket to get fuses out before that have melted into the socket. I have tried a variety of different fuses thinking cheap fuses might be the problem to no avail. Is there something that could cause this circuit to draw more amps? Somebody mentioned replacing their O2 sensor and it solved their problem. I am wondering if an old, possible failing, O2 sensors cause the ecu to run lean/rich therefore straining the efi fuse. Does my logic seem possible or am I way off base?

Stock 2000 mall cruiser.

Ryan
 
I didn't have melting fuses and charring. even if it's not the fuse box it sounds like you'll need a new one. my normal mechanic couldn't take care of it. i had to take it to the dealer; expensive but gave peace of mind. good luck
 
I'm having this exact problem and i'm hoping the OP will update his findings so I can learn from him.
 

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