Help identifying CV axles (1 Viewer)

[danny23]

Hey Mudders
I need some help determining if some remanufactured CV’s I got from Detroit Axle are oem. Not sure how guys tell if they are oem or not. Also, there’s a seal or part missing on the diff side of the axles. I don’t know my cv anatomy, so I don’t know what to call it, or if they are functional. Thanks for any help you can offer.
Thanks
Danny

Cv1

• danny23
• Oct 30, 2018

Cv

• danny23
• Oct 30, 2018

 

[gatormark91]

I think they are both OEM cores.... One has the dust cover on it (top one in second photo), one does not. The dust cover should not have been coated with the rest of the axle, but it won't hurt anything.

I've gotten too much differing quality from Detroit Axles in the last couple I've seen, and had to send the last one back because the dust cover would not fit tight at all. I think someone polished or wire brushed the exterior too much. After some success, I just cannot recommend them anymore. Why one has a bulge in the middle of the axle and one does not, I cannot comment on, perhaps model year differences? The fact that the both axles are coated, and not polished on the ends, bugs me, and the pitting on the outer joint of the one is not good, either.

This is the dust seal that is missing on one of them:
41336-35020 - Genuine Toyota COVER, DUST

 

[danny23]

Thanks for the info gatormark91. Should I be upset one doesn’t have a dust cover on it? What characteristics are you looking for that determine whether or not it’s oem?

 

[gatormark91]

Thanks for the info gatormark91. Should I be upset one doesn’t have a dust cover on it? What characteristics are you looking for that determine whether or not it’s oem?

No, a lot of the axles don't come with the dust cover. You can carefully remove it from the old one if you want to re-use, or buy a new one (link above). The aftermarket axles will have a different shape to the housings on the inboard joint (less than the factory cage with 6 balls, less range of movement), and generally, the axle will be thinner. Detroit Axle says they only use OEM cores, which is good, but the quality is not the same from my first order to my last. I'll probably go with Toyota remans next time, just to skip the hassle.

 

[gatormark91]

To re-use the dust cover, just work around the spot between the cover and the housing with a very thin flat-head screwdriver, tapping it with a small hammer until you get a gap, the go up to a slightly larger screwdriver. It should be a firm fit, but it won't take much to get it to pop off.

 

[danny23]

Thanks gatormark91. You are the man

 

[gatormark91]

AND - replace the diff oil seal while the axles are out. Skipping that should not even be considered. It's cheap insurance against a leak. Remove the old seal, and drive the new one in until the rubber sealing lip for the axle shaft is NO DEEPER than a straight-edge held across the end of the diff tube.

 

[2001LC]

I always recommend replacing differential side seals when replacing front drive shafts, as @gatormark91 suggested.

Looks to me like your missing front Dust Shield also. I found this part #, but it's not for the series 100.

The boots look like aftermarket, which if like the ones CVJ uses will not last. They offers OEM boots for ~$85 extra per side.
OEM boot kit have yellow clamps on outer tulip. As do new OEM FDS.

I'd clean all paint off axles and seals & seats areas.

Make sure to use new inner snap ring. Also the hub flange snap ring.

A very import area to inspect is condition of teeth of axle. Paint will make hub flange feel tight on axle. But as paint wares off we find the teeth worn and we get play. This play is leading cause of the D to N to R clunk.

Next inspect the outer axle grove where hub flange snap ring seats. It needs a very good 90 degree retaining groove. If it's worn down or round, snap ring may pop off.

I'd send them back. I've used OEMs I'd use over rebuilt or fork over the money for new OEM FDS along with new hub flange and cone washers.

 

[2001LC]

If you keep them!
I made a simple seal install tool for Dust cover (inner axle seal)

You may like this, but this one was easy often they take a little more effort.

 

[Rolocado]

Oops....didnt put new seals in

 

[2001LC]

Oops....didnt put new seals in

Did they leak? (yours being newer seals may be ok)
Was the axle needle bearing and bushing easy to install?
Was you vibration issue solved?

 

[gatormark91]

Oops....didnt put new seals in

Me either, have my driver's side out right now. Dirty needle bearings do not make me happy. Replacing the seal before I put it back in!

This should be the correct outer dust cover/seal part number, I believe:
90316A0001 - Toyota Seal, oil (for front axle hub lh); seal, oil (for front axle hub rh). No.2 | Toyota Parts Overstock

(click on 'What this fits" tab to see LC100, it is on the list)

It's actually available on Amazon, with Prime shipping.

 

[2001LC]

Me either, have my driver's side out right now. Dirty needle bearings do not make me happy. Replacing the seal before I put it back in!

This should be the correct outer dust cover/seal part number, I believe:
90316A0001 - Toyota Seal, oil (for front axle hub lh); seal, oil (for front axle hub rh). No.2 | Toyota Parts Overstock

(click on 'What this fits" tab to see LC100, it is on the list)

It's actually available on Amazon, with Prime shipping.

To be clear: The seal PN # you post is the one that goes in back of knuckle. The outer axle front drive shaft dust shield nest in it.

I once found a 2000 LX that both axle & knuckle seals missing, 20 bay shop did that mess.

 

[gatormark91]

To be clear: The seal PN # you post is the one that goes in back of knuckle. The outer axle front drive shaft dust shield nest in it.
View attachment 1821640 View attachment 1821641 View attachment 1821642

I once found a 2000 LX that both axle & knuckle seals missing, 20 bay shop did that mess.View attachment 1821643

Got it, I see now why you said you did not want to buy a new axle to get the part - Toyota doesn't seem to list a separate PN for it for the Land Cruiser. That's just stupid. :-(

OK, ordering a set of the dust covers you listed myself, now. They originals weren't on mine when I put the first axles in, but the oil seal was doing OK, so did not even notice! Thanks!

 

[2001LC]

Got it, I see now why you said you did not want to buy a new axle to get the part - Toyota doesn't seem to list a separate PN for it for the Land Cruiser. That's just stupid. :-(

OK, ordering a set of the dust covers you listed myself, now. They originals weren't on mine when I put the first axles in, but the oil seal was doing OK, so did not even notice! Thanks!

Parts list online are often wrong, even a Dealerships I've gotten wrong PN # with VIN #. But it is why they ask for VIN in order screen in most.

When I did the outer axle seal PN # 90304-A0001 substitute, it may have been a Tundra PN# i don't recall. I did NOT have a new FDS with seal to compare it too at the time. It seem to work fine. But the rig sold to a local mechanic and I've never heard back anything on it or from him. That seal was a very tight fit to get on. So take your time, they bend easy.

 

[Rolocado]

To be clear: The seal PN # you post is the one that goes in back of knuckle. The outer axle front drive shaft dust shield nest in it.
View attachment 1821640 View attachment 1821641 View attachment 1821642

I once found a 2000 LX that both axle & knuckle seals missing, 20 bay shop did that mess.View attachment 1821643

How do you even get this seal out? What do you punch it out with?

 

[Rolocado]

Did they leak? (yours being newer seals may be ok)
Was the axle needle bearing and bushing easy to install?
Was you vibration issue solved?

I just got the CVs in today. For some reason the passenger side was a bear to get in the diff. I had to use a piece of wood as a drift.
The needle bearing wasn't hard to press in. Getting it out was a different story. I ended up accidentally destroying the cage to be able to punch it out.
Still waiting to see if the CVs did the trick. I have to crank the T bars and have been dreading that.

 

[2001LC]

If you're asking about the seal in back of knuckle, I use vise-grips. Just clamp on the lip with round end of vise grips toward outside, and then roll the vise grips down to outside. Pops out easy, but bends seal.

Key is have NEW snap ring open end down on FDS. But, sometimes FDS are a bear to pop into diff regardless. I had to use a wooden drift just last week on one, too get that last 3/8" in to seat. It was one that steering knuckle was not removed, just released at UCA ball joint. I used a bottle jack to raise LCA to align FDS as straight as I could, making install easier. As I looked, dust shield still ~3/8" outside of differential. One good wacks on end of axle with wooden drift and it seated.


Note: Great care must be taken when guiding FDS into diff, or seal get knocked out of position, which I find is number one reason they leak.

 

[gregnash]

Reviving an old thread as I cannot seem to find a definitive answer. Checked lots and lots of threads but cannot seem to find anything.
Is there a sure fire way to determine if an axle is OEM or not? I understand it may be an OEM shaft with aftermarket boots on it, telling a rebuild at some point, but is there any other way without removing the boot to see the number of balls in the outer tulip (ensuring 6)??

Are OEM driveshaft (mid section between boots) a specific diameter? Looking to grab some axles from a parts rig that I will either have reconditioned locally or send off as cores to CVJ. Just would really hate to do the latter only to have them call me back and say "these aren't OEM".

The axles that are currently installed on my truck I know for sure are aftermarket (have the documentation). However, they also have this P/N stamped into the center section, which is part of the reason why I am asking if OEM has something similar?
For the record there show up at SurTrack/Import Direct axles by googling the TO-8139.
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

 

[2001LC]

Reviving an old thread as I cannot seem to find a definitive answer. Checked lots and lots of threads but cannot seem to find anything.
Is there a sure fire way to determine if an axle is OEM or not? I understand it may be an OEM shaft with aftermarket boots on it, telling a rebuild at some point, but is there any other way without removing the boot to see the number of balls in the outer tulip (ensuring 6)??

Are OEM driveshaft (mid section between boots) a specific diameter? Looking to grab some axles from a parts rig that I will either have reconditioned locally or send off as cores to CVJ. Just would really hate to do the latter only to have them call me back and say "these aren't OEM".

The axles that are currently installed on my truck I know for sure are aftermarket (have the documentation). However, they also have this P/N stamped into the center section, which is part of the reason why I am asking if OEM has something similar?
For the record there show up at SurTrack/Import Direct axles by googling the TO-8139.
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Not Toyota PN #.

Also see center axle of this Toyota OEM replacement. Shape is different.