Please god help me -Help Diagnosing FJ62 bogging/stuttering - SOLVED (1 Viewer)

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EscapeWagon62

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Jun 29, 2017
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Location
Longmeadow MA
All,
Need a hand chasing down an issue where my vehicle is bogging down/stuttering. I had experienced this same symptom recently and I threw a CEL code 22 (water temp sensor). Replaced the water temperature sensor and all was well but the condition reappeared and I'm not throwing any CEL codes now (which is a good sign).

What is the symptom?
- After the vehicle has been sitting either overnight for for an hour or so, It will bog down/almost stall within a short distance. It is intermittent, I'd say one out of every 6-10 start ups. When I say bogging (almost a violent stall) , it's like I lose all power unless I reduce throttle to minimal, put it in neutral and try again.
- Happens in warm of cold weather
- Has happened on a cold engine and a warm engine
- When starting the vehicle starts and idles fine, the bogging occurs only when I apply more than (my guess) 40% throttle input.
- It is jarring in that the engine seems like it seizes (feels like fuel cutoff, electrical cutoff in that it is very sudden vs progressively bogging down) . I can put the clutch in (I have an H55 swap) and it returns to normal and I limp to a parking lot under very moderate throttle.
- If I pull off the road and sit for a minute or turn off the car and restart it....everything is normal and I can drive with no further issues whatsoever.

Have you checked the usual suspects?
- Fuel filter is new within a few thousand miles
- Fuel pressure regulator is new as is the pulsation damper (both replaced when I had it disassembled for my intake/exhaust manifold gasket a couple thousand miles ago)
- Water temperature sensor was replaced with an OEM (condition existed prior to the replacement but I did throw a CEL 22 before the replacement and I'm not throwing one now). I did have to drain a gallon of coolant during the replacement which has been refilled and burped to the best of my ability.
- Electrical - not an expert in this line of work so I don't know if something would cause this and be able to reset it simply by pulling over and waiting nor would it explain why it only seems to happen after sitting for a bit. No other electrical issues occur when the bogging happens that I am aware of.
- Valve adjustment - I know if they are over-tight, aside from not being recommended, it will generally cause a "dead spot in power" vs a more immediate engine bogging
- While I don't think this would be of interest, I have a fully functioning charcoal cannister (tested per FSM)n and the vehicle is not de-smogged in any way.
- I did recently have the A/C serviced as the seals on the compressor failed.

Any other thoughts? The only other two items I can think of are:
- Fuel pump - I have an OEM replacement as they tend to go bad. I just can't seem to logically convince myself that a fuel pump would only show failure in specific instances like this
- Throttle position sensor - Same as above - possible but only at start up seems like a weird failure and I'm not throwing a code.
- Some weird electrical gremlin that only appears in the first few hundred yards of travel.
- Vacuum leak - Possible but idle is perfect and this only happens under throttle greater than roughly 40% and only for a short distance after startup. If I shut the vehicle off and restart the condition disappears which lead me to believe it isn't anything vacuum related. Could be convinced otherwise.


Any advice appreciated.
 
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Leaning towards fuel pump and TPS based on my knowledge of your rig and my limited knowledge of 62’s in general. If you have a new pump, that’s an easy one to rule out. I suppose a new TPS is easy too, but I don’t have experience. My sniper setup will stall out if it’s not above 165 and the TPS is open less than 20%. If I let it warm up to operating temps it functions flawlessly. Any other issues I experience are related to my throttle cable itself.
 
Are you sure the O2 sensor is functioning? I have mine installed a bit further back than Holley suggests and I suspect it takes longer for it to warm up causing issues until the coolant is hot.
 
Thats guys.
It is interested that it only happens at the beginning of the drive. And its making my brain ache. I’ll try to find some time to do the fuel pump and I think I have an alternate TPS in my “just in case backup parts” bin.
On the O2 sensors….would they not throw a CEL code? Its a very interesting possibility and I have no idea if they are original or replaced at any time under previous ownership.
I’ll also check the wiring under the jack (it was on my list as part of general maintenance)
 
Ok - I think I’ve found it.
I know my fuel pressure regulator and damper are new.
I have an extra TPS but couldn’t get my mind around why this would cause my symptom.
Double check for vacuum leaks and while pulling out the air intake I noticed…..
MY MASS AIR FLOW CONNECTOR WAS WAY LOOSE!! This would explain intermittent nature of the drivability problem and would certainly explain the bogging/stuttering.

I have a few test drives under my belt and so far so good.
 
Ok - just doing an update in the hopes that it helps another FJ62 owner sometime down the road.
My rig ended up having two issues that both caused stumbling/stuttering.
1. Water temp sensor wiring harness. Fixed y installing new harness from @ToyotaMatt. No more CEL code 22.
2. Cracked vacuum hose on the bvsv valve. These are only a few inches long and hard to see but can cause big performance anomalies.
Is it possible that my loose MAF connector was an issue? Maybe but the two items above got me back to confident driving.

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Another follow up on this.
All new water housing sensors installed but the drivability conditions came back.
Replaced O2 sensors, conditions returned.
Rechecked all harnesses and didn't have an issue there.

After pulling my hair out and calling in fire support from a master tech....... my case it ultimately ended up being a faulty Mass Air Flow sensor.
Luckily I am an hour and a half from cruiserparts.net and they pulled one for me for $250.

Long frustrating journey, freely admit that I had to throw a bunch of parts at this one but glad I'm back on the road as of today.
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Does anyone know if the BVSV valve in the thermostat housing could cause a CEL 22.
I’m losing my mind!!!!!!!

Temp sensor changed twice
Cold stsrt timer - changed
Wiring checked from sensors to ECU
Zero vacuum leaks (smoke test and all)
ICS operating fine
02 sensors replaced
TPS set correctly and tested


@ToyotaMatt @cps432 @tmxmotorsports @NearJetties @3_puppies
 
Based on some feedback on my build thread from red66toy I’ll be checking resistance and ground at the ECU.
I’ll update next week.
Picked the wrong week to quit sniffing glue ✈️
 
Great write-up, I hope you find the culprit to these gremlins. I'm looking at a 62 for sale on monday that has similar issues.
 
Hopefully yours just needs a temp sensor. Seems to do it for most folks.


check both service plugs at the TPS and Air Flow Meter , they can go bad or throw a terminal PIN ...............




a new idea , lets hope yours is OK ?

if not a plug , repair , and play solution now exists ...........







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check both service plugs at the TPS and Air Flow Meter , they can go bad or throw a terminal PIN ...............




a new idea , lets hope yours is OK ?

if not a plug , repair , and play solution now exists ...........







View attachment 2908723




View attachment 2908724



View attachment 2908725
Thanks Matt,
Already did pins on MAF, will check TPS as well.
 
Are the symptoms the exact same each time?

Ever change the fuel pump?
The symptoms are mostly the same, some times significant stalling, sometimes less. When the condition started to appear it would be the vehicle sat for a while. Now it seems to appear when the engine is warm.
I can try a fuel pump (which I have on hand) but can’t wrap my head around how that would throw CEL 22.
 
- not sure if you have the CEL -22 specifics or not , ?


- double check that THW and E2 are not crossed or mixed up with one another ................

- double check the sensor itself , make sure it is simply NOT a faulty part in the equation ?

- pull off the new connector plug inspect if terminals are in good order and making positive mechanical contact ...

- then follow ALL the step by steps below , including if the ECU needs a Polarized stand alone ground wire maybe ?


- E1 is indeed a stand alone , Negative ground path needed .....



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