HELP - Center Diff Lock and 4Low (2 Viewers)

[Quinletc]

I have a fair amount of experience with 100-series Cruisers, some with 80-series, but NONE with 200-series. I am looking at buying a 2008 LX 570 with 228,000 miles, from the original owner. I know him and I know how the truck has been treated and maintained. In short, I have no concerns, save one.

I test drove it the other day, and in the course of checking things out, I tried the center diff lock and 4Low. Neither engaged. I wasn't paying too close attention on the 4L attempt, so I might have gotten the steps wrong - entirely possible that was a user-error issue. But for the CDL, you just push the button, right, same as on a 100? The light would only blink, and I didn't hear a solenoid engage. I tried going forward, back, turning in a slow circle, but it just kept blinking and driving normally - no feel of a locked diff.

The owner said he had never used the CDL. I would bet he didn't even know it existed. He would know 4L exists, but also probably has never used it.

The questions are:

1. If those mechanical devices (solenoids?) have never been used in 10 years, what are the odds they can be unstuck or otherwise gotten to work?

2. If lack of use has made them inoperable, what's involved in replacing/repairing?

I expect he's going to ask a very reasonable price, but if I'm going to have to turn around and put $5,000 into it, it's not a good deal. Thanks!

 

[Whiskerz]

Put it in neutral and engage them

 

[Quinletc]

Put it in neutral and engage them

OK, but let's assume that doesn't resolve the issue. What am I looking at then?

 

[linuxgod]

The CDL can be engaged while driving up to ~60 mph. No need to go into Neutral to do that. If it's not engaging, make sure the truck is fully warmed up (not just the radiator temp, also the transfer case fluid). Many of us have this issue when the vehicle is cold. I had it this weekend when engaging my CDL (which I haven't used since August). If it engaged the light will go steady. If it's flashing then it's not engaging. After about 15 minutes of driving I shut it off and when restarting the light cleared and then the CDL would engage ok.

For 4Lo, you have to be stopped and put the truck in Neutral first. You should hear a click when 4Lo engaged and the 4Lo light will go solid. Note that 4Lo will not engage if the CDL light is flashing, so test 4Lo first.

 

[Quinletc]

The CDL can be engaged while driving up to ~60 mph. No need to go into Neutral to do that. If it's not engaging, make sure the truck is fully warmed up (not just the radiator temp, also the transfer case fluid). Many of us have this issue when the vehicle is cold. I had it this weekend when engaging my CDL (which I haven't used since August). If it engaged the light will go steady. If it's flashing then it's not engaging. After about 15 minutes of driving I shut it off and when restarting the light cleared and then the CDL would engage ok.

For 4Lo, you have to be stopped and put the truck in Neutral first. You should hear a click when 4Lo engaged and the 4Lo light will go solid. Note that 4Lo will not engage if the CDL light is flashing, so test 4Lo first.

Great info, thanks!

The truck was definitely NOT warmed up when I tried the CDL. And the CDL light was already flashing when I tried 4Low.

 

[M1911]

If the CDL actuator is stuck, you are looking at a very expensive repair. I absolutely would not buy the truck unless you can get the CDL and 4-lo working.

Try each one independently. While driving straight, with no throttle or brake application, try to engage the diff lock. Yes, you can do this on dry pavement provides you are not turning. No, you don’t have to be in neutral.

Once you have that resolved, the try 4-lo. Gently come to a stop with the wheel straight. Put the transmission in neutral. Then try 4-lo.

If that doesn’t get things working, then pass on the truck.

 

[grinchy]

For 4 lo, put it in neutral, shift the switch, see the fail light.
Turn truck off. Leave the switch in 4 lo. Turn truck on. If it is really stuck that will often kick the solenoid in.

 

[linuxgod]

Great info, thanks!

The truck was definitely NOT warmed up when I tried the CDL. And the CDL light was already flashing when I tried 4Low.

FWIW I get this a couple times a year. It usually clears once the transfer case fully warms up, and after that the CDL will engage even when cold. It's annoying, for sure. Of course it clears for me once the vehicle gets warm so if I drive it to a dealer they can't reproduce it.

If you really can't get it to engage then it might require a new actuator, which is probably in the $1-2k repair range (or if you're lucky, just the position sensor). But most likely warming it up and driving a bit and then trying it will eventually work.

 

[mcgaskins]

If either have not been operated in a decade and 228k miles, I'll bet the shifting mechanisms and surrounding grease / lubricants will have a hard time for a while. When I bought my 08 LX with ~157k, neither would engage at first, so I did the whole shift into neutral, flip to 4 low, get a flashing light, turn truck off then back on again, and it would shift. I found a gravel lot near work where I would "exercise" both the CDL and tcase shifter a couple times per week at first, then once a month and everything has been working great after the first few attempts. I would make sure the truck is nice and warmed up on a longish drive before trying anything, and I'd suggest trying it on a gravel or slippery surface to help keep things from binding up.

 

[NLScooby]

Ha - I just did this today...the gravel parking lot thing - because I realized it had been a few months since I engaged 4Lo and CDL. Mine engaged in Neutral but then when I disengaged I got a bunch of lights flashing on the dash....skid control, 4lo, etc.... (although I know it disengaged 4Lo. I shut down and restarted and its fine now. I'll hit the parking lot every week or so to exercise it.

 

[M1911]

You can exercise the CDL on pavement, as long as you have a nice long straight stretch.

 

[Quinletc]

UPDATE - Drove it again last night, got it good an warmed up, went to a gravel lot, and everything worked just fine. Thanks very much for the advice!

Tried out the Crawl Control while I was there - seen video but never actually experienced it before. That system is SO FREAKING COOL!

So, what would you pay for a 2008 LX570 with 227,000 miles on it? I know the owner, and he takes 1,000 mile road trips (each way) several times a year, which is why the mileage is high for its age.

Interior is perfect, except for the outside panel of the driver's seat, which has a very small crease in it - will tear before too much longer. Exterior is very good - a couple of rubs on the back bumper and one on the front right corner, which I can clean up with matched paint and wet sanding - no wrecks. All mechanical bits function properly - seats, windows, doors, etc.

 

[grinchy]

Nine months ago I paid $17.5 for a 2009 LX with 210000 miles with some minor cosmetic issues. I still feel I got a good deal.

 

[linuxgod]

Someone recently posted a 2008 or 2010 LX with 265k for $15k they were looking at, for reference. Someone with Mannheim access can let you know what the going auction prices are as well.

I would think $15-20k will be the going non-auction rate, depending on maintenance history and condition. The seat bottom is replaceable apparently... just saw someone else on the forum post a photo of theirs replaced with an ebay version which was pretty close for maybe $200? The seats are a problem on EVERY LC EVER.

FWIW if you're planning to offroad I wouldn't bother fixing the bumpers... just use it as leverage for a better price

 

[MikeVpdx503]

I tend to hit the local carwash every 3-4 weeks. I'm not really OCD about a clean exterior for my 2013, but that is just my regular timing to knock off the grit and grime. After going through, I cycle the CDL and 4Lo in the adjacent parking lot just to keep things moving around as they should.

 

[Quinletc]

Someone with Mannheim access can let you know what the going auction prices are as well.

So, I have a buddy with access, and while the miles were lower, every LX from 2008-2010 had an estimated price of more than $20K. And the buy-it-now prices (all 2010's) were in the $30K range.

I cannot imagine paying $30,000 for an 8 year old truck (even though I love LC's and LX's), but it certainly gives me some comfort that the estimated action prices are above $20K.

 

[Quinletc]

The seat bottom is replaceable apparently... just saw someone else on the forum post a photo of theirs replaced with an ebay version which was pretty close for maybe $200? The seats are a problem on EVERY LC EVER.

Yeah, the seat doesn't concern me at all. I've done a few of them on 100's.

My go-to for 100-series replacement leather seat covers has been LSeat.com - fantastic value. But it appears they don't carry 200-series covers... yet.

In this case, though, all it needs is the one panel replaced.

 

[linuxgod]

So, I have a buddy with access, and while the miles were lower, every LX from 2008-2010 had an estimated price of more than $20K. And the buy-it-now prices (all 2010's) were in the $30K range.

I cannot imagine paying $30,000 for an 8 year old truck (even though I love LC's and LX's), but it certainly gives me some comfort that the estimated action prices are above $20K.

It depends on how much lower is "lower mileage". I looked at a 2008 LX with ~100k around Dec 2015 which was listed at $32k. So I can imagine it. If they had budged to $30k I would've pulled the trigger. Ultimately I'm glad I ended up with the LC though. But 3 years later and 127k more miles... no I can't imagine spending $30k either. I wouldn't trust the Mannheim estimated auction prices though... you really need to look at actual recent auctions since these don't sell too regularly which means the estimated prices can be thousands of dollars off.

At 227k miles, assuming good service records, semi-regular fluid replacement (particularly diff and transmission), and the radiator, starter, water pump, and brakes were done within the last ~50k miles, tires look ok and if everything else looks good I'd set $20k as an upper limit. That's me personally, and my number could easily be low for the market... If I'd bought that 2008 LX three years ago I'd be at 138k now and likely wouldn't want to sell for less than $25-26k.

BTW not a ton of really high mileage info around here but the 100 series engine seems to run forever and the transmissions seem to go 400-500k from the few people I've met who have hit (or are close to) 500k. I'd expect the same on the 200, but the Tundra 5.7's have some weak spots so who knows?

 

[afgman786]

So looks like I gotta keep playing with CDL? Went wheeling today and it didn't engage. It worked the other month, but no luck today... was hoping there's a fuse or trick to make sure it works

 

[M1911]

OK, but let's assume that doesn't resolve the issue. What am I looking at then?

A very, very expensive fix. Think several thousand. Skip that truck and go find a different one.