so as I'm about get my lift started I had been soaking the bleeder valves with pb blaster and I snapped a hex key in the bleeder valve. Any way to just replace the bleeder screw? There hex won't come out without destroying the bleeder screw. I've tried everything
HELP! Broken hex key in kdss (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ray101381
- Start date
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Did you go to or call iron pig? I was there this week to lift front end and they couldn't get valves screws undone...
You could drill the hex out a little and use an easy out tool to unscrew and screw it back in.
gaijin
GOLD Star
DO NOT REMOVE THE BLEEDER SCREW !!!!!
What you are calling a "bleeder screw" is a shutter valve that is used to equalize pressure between different parts of the KDSS system.
Under no circumstances should those shutter valves be loosened more than 3 turns. Doing so, or removing them entirely, would release the pressure in the system and require an expensive trip to the dealer.
The KDSS system is under extremely high pressure - something on the order of several hundred psi!
HTH
I'm going to try to get Toyota to fix mine under warranty I believe a few others on here had the same problem.
I don't have to tell you to be careful with drilling because going too far will have you on a flatbed.
I don't have to tell you to be careful with drilling because going too far will have you on a flatbed.
- Thread starter
- #6
the system is under 1015 psi!!! i'm not sure what to do at this point, there shouldn't be any reason shutter should be seized or in that high of torque, manual says 10ft/lbs. i don't know about a warranty since i technically touched it but at the same time it shouldn't be rusted closed! very frustrated and angry at this point
My KDSS looked as bad as anyone's and I got mine loose with Kroil and tapping and patience. I also cleaned /scraped the rust off around the screws each time I sprayed with Kroil. (See thread)
I'd recommend tapping lightly with a hammer and spraying with Kroil. The tapping with a hammer vibrates the parts and should allow the Kroil yo penetrate. You may tack weld that hex key in (or JBWeld it) and just leave it in for good....using it to turn the screw.
Sorry about your troubles!
I'd recommend tapping lightly with a hammer and spraying with Kroil. The tapping with a hammer vibrates the parts and should allow the Kroil yo penetrate. You may tack weld that hex key in (or JBWeld it) and just leave it in for good....using it to turn the screw.
Sorry about your troubles!
- Thread starter
- #8
Just a quick update. I finally got a chance to take the truck into the dealer yesterday for the regular 25k service and mentioned to my service manager a slight lean on the stock truck. I was honest and told him that I tried correcting it myself and while doing so stripped a rusted valve but pled my case and showed the repair manual that shows it should be torqued to 10 ft/lbs. just got a text saying the dealer is replacing the valve under warranty!!
Ray,
I,m working on my screws right now. Already broke 4 Chinese crap hex bits but luckily none of them got stuck in the screw. Just order some 5mm impact wrench US made hex bits to see if that will make a difference. Just in case I end up in the same situation like you did, what dealer did you take your truck for service?
Hope all goes well for you and please keep me posted on the progress.
Regards,
- Thread starter
- #12
I took my truck to Passport Toyota, i have a very good relationship with Passport and Passport Toyota as i have bought 10 or so cars from them in the past couple years. I worked with Greg Allen who was great. I was honest and told him that i had rounded off the hex but to my defense the shutter valve should be at 10ft/lbs. He looked over the truck and said that it was leaning a bit to the driver side and we went with that, next day he says it is being fixed with a new valve under warranty. part was ordered on monday not sure if it arrived yet as i don't have the truck back, i told them to take their time as i do have another car.
Is there any pm that can be done to this valve to prevent this from happening? I live in a fairly dry climate but have concerns about this also. Would it be wise to break the screw free every oil change or maybe apply some anti seize to the threads?
- Thread starter
- #15
another update, part arrived today, they had to order a new pump as he said their old one might have been damaged during the move to their new building so new pump should be here monday and should only take less than a day to get repressurized
- Thread starter
- #16
also wanted to mention, i never thought i'd run into this problem as my truck is a 2014 with 24K miles on it, garage kept. so when i saw the immense rust and the valves seized i was a bit surprised
That's great you git it resolved - but crazy that it happened in the first place. You may want to protect that new part right away to prevent the rust.
- Thread starter
- #18
as soon as i get it back i'm gonna be spraying some amsoil chain lube, i used that stuff to undercoat my raptor and not a single bit of rust. the plan is to break them free spray them and then torque them back to 10ft/lbs
bjowett
Supporting Vendor
Before install, why not have the dealer back the valves out about 5.5 - 6 turns and work a little anti seize in there. The valve will easily pop out at this point, but I would be lightly concerned with damaging the o-ring.
wtmtmterror, any grease or anti rust wax treatment works well to prevent corrosion... Apply liberally.
wtmtmterror, any grease or anti rust wax treatment works well to prevent corrosion... Apply liberally.
