Help! Bj40 wont start :(

[RyRy]

hey guys,
i've just painted my 1978 bj40, its come up really good actually it's been a slow process, been off the road for about 2 months. The day has finally come to take it for a drive, and of corse it wont start

The battery is fine, the starter's fine, its turning over but just wont start. The car has plenty of fuel. I've tried to prime the engine with the hand pump til the point where fuel was coming out of the priming pump!
The glow plugs APPEAR to be working, i.e. the little spring thingy in the dash goes red hot as per usual...

One other thing that may be worth mentioning, a couple of months ago i did change the fuel filter...while it was off the road, so i havent driven it since i changed it.

Is it possible to flood a diesel? I have no idea what could be wrong! Any help is much appreciated as i was hoping to drive it on christmas...

thanks again

Ryan

 

[Greg_B]

Do you know if the fuel filter has fuel in it. When you mention using the priming pump, are you cracking the bleed screw at the filter?

Which side is the bleed screw on...the inlet or outlet side? Too many times I've seen it on the inlet side...which does not help when bleeding the system to purge the filter. If it is on the inlet side, change it to the other.

When that is all done, and if it still does not start, crack the 17mm inlet nuts on the injection lines to the injectors, to assist bleeding the air further up line.

hth's

gb

 

[crushers]

i have to agree with Greg, crack the 17mm nutz at the injectors a 1/2 turn, crank till you have fuel coming out, as each one gets the fuel coming out lock that one down...
good luck and psot some pics
cheers

 

[seapotato]

does the edic arm move when you turn the key? they get stuck sometimes when out of use for a while

cheers,
ryan

 

[Tapage]

does the edic arm move when you turn the key? they get stuck sometimes when out of use for a while

cheers,
ryan

Step by step .. and I thought the EDIC check is a good point to start, how cold around your TLC . ? under 0 ºC .. ?

 

[Kalawang]

Cutesy poo trick I used to do to get a recalcitrant deisel started was to crank it with 24 volts. Turn off everything first, and then crank with a pair of batteries.

I'm assuming your fuel system is self bleeding. I only did this when my deisel got air in the fuel lines. The high speed cranking usually takes care of getting the engine started regardless and a little bit of running got the lines cleared.


Kalawang

 

[seapotato]

weeell, the bj40 is probably 24 volts already, so may need a couple more batteries to up the voltage....

 

[RyRy]

hey guys, thanks for all your help, still wont start but here's what i've tried.
I took the bleed screw out and made sure fuel was getting in there, and it is. Also it's on the right side...closest to the passenger seat

However i think the problem may be the edic arm! Im not a mechanic so im not 100% sure what the edic arm is, so if anyone could post a pic, that'd be great...

but if it's that arm that goes to where the injector line's start, near where the bleeding screw is...then its not moving

why wouldnt it be working, any ideas?

 

[crushers]

wires disconected?

 

[RyRy]

is there a fuse for it?

 

[brownbear]

RyRy,
on your edic motor(behind the injection pump. You see a rod coming out from it to the injection pump.

That rod moves forward and aft. When it is in the fwd pos(against a stop?) it is in the shut down(off) condition.

When you hold start, that rod should move all the way aft for overinjection to help start.

When you release the started in the run pos, is should be in the mid posisition.

on the rh side of your eng is a low oil pressure switch. if that is not closing, or you are not getting oil px, then your edic arm will not move from stop.

other things to check for,
find your edic relay and pull off the connector.

looking at the plug you can see where to check for power. remember this is the relay side, so you need to view it flipped on the plug, or just line them up to see where each is.

I think checking the arm moves is your first step, then you have fuel or not, then crack the injectors while cranking to ensure all air is out.

make sure you have voltage at your glowplugs by sampling with a meter while in the glow cycle.

its gotta start, or a puff of smoke out the tail pipe means your getting there. My first guess is gonna be the edic.

so if the arm doesn't move you can tap it a little to maybe free up the the motor. wiggle it my hand too. might be stuck in a bad spot, or slightly corroded from the long sit.

good luck

 

[brownbear]

is there a fuse for it?

yes, and more

the engine 15a, gives power to the IG connection at the relay Black yellow wire.

The B+ connection at the relay gets power from the fusible links at the battery.

ST connection is getting power from the ignition switch st pos, rule this one out as your starter is spinning.

So check your 15a engine fuse, as well the one fusible link near the battery.

The fuseable links are labeled P, R, B.....the edic one is P.

Not sure how exactly to indentify....

Have fun. You will drive for Christmas.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Maybe its time to call the ether bunny

 

[RyRy]

okay it's definetly the edic arm not moving, i disconnected the plug and managed to get it to move with an external power source, and the car started. Still doesnt explain why it won't move when its plugged in as per normal...

Can anyone post a pic of the oil pressure switch? i can't seem to find it...

 

[RyRy]

brownbear, which relay are we talking about? i can see starter relay, glow plug relay...
in the passenger side footwell

im an aussie remember so i guess thats your drivers side..

 

[crushers]

check the plug ends fery carefully, i have had a single plug wire "tit" (for a lack of a better word) pushed into the plug just enough that it wasn't engageing the female end. it can a bugger to find. i would start there...
cheers

 

[brownbear]

brownbear, which relay are we talking about? i can see starter relay, glow plug relay...
in the passenger side footwell

im an aussie remember so i guess thats your drivers side..

ok, I have not first hand info for your edic relay. its a relay that has about 8 plus wires going to it. should be inside in the footwells, but again I don't know fur sure.

check the fuse as mentions. Also look underneath your exhaust manifold, you will find the switch for the low oil px. there is two switches there, one for the gauge, and the other for the edic cut off(low oil px).

Do you have a FSM, mine is not handy right now, but you can look aorund at the switches, I think the smaller of the two will be the cut off. But I can't remember.

Can anyone post up which one it is??????? with a pic?

if you take a jumper and cross the connector for the low oil px sw, and it starts(moves the arm) then you have one of two things. Either you really have no oil px or the switch is screwed.

Either way starting with that bypassed will let you know. But you have to watch the gauge for oil pressure.

Try overiding this sw first. Then go searching the inside of the truck for the relay that you can then check for power as I mentioned above.

Also check the fuseable link and the fuse inside the truck. Engine 15a.

Hope that helps.

 

[RyRy]

well i found the 2 switches your referring to and neither of them even have a connector on them.. i found one loose connector and tried it on both but nothing happens...

 

[RyRy]

if i can hear the edic relay clicking when i turn the ignition on, would that rule out the oil pressure switch being the problem?

 

[brownbear]

well i found the 2 switches your referring to and neither of them even have a connector on them.. i found one loose connector and tried it on both but nothing happens...

Did you have Oil pressure showing before on your gauge? Before you did the paint job an all?

Do they have the same connector style? Put a jumper across the terminal pins on the connector. try to start. You need to have continuity thru the oil PX sw to get it to run. It has to be a closed circuit.

I would put both connectors back on there spots.