Heim Joint Rod Ends for front sway bar

[MikeyP67]

Can anyone recommend a more suitable end link for my front sway bar? Or advise if something else may be ‘off’?
The other day I experienced mild articulation and my driver’s side end link snapped. This is the second time it has happened so I’m thinking that perhaps the bushing in the KDSS arm may be shot, causing the arm to push sideways resulting in the link being angled too much.
For background, the rig has the full Icon Stage 6 suspension and their Tundra front end conversion kit.
Thanks in advance.

 

[nwfl4runner]

You mounted the upper heim inside the bar correct?

Edit - do you have a picture of the other side that didn’t snap, at ride height?

 

[MikeyP67]

You mounted the upper heim inside the bar correct?

Edit - do you have a picture of the other side that didn’t snap, at ride height?

Thanks for the response. Here’s a photo of the passenger side at ride height. The upper heim is on the inside of the sway bar.

Here’s another image of the passenger side from straight on. The driver’s side had a much more severe inward angle than the passenger side.

 

[TeCKis300]

Can anyone recommend a more suitable end link for my front sway bar? Or advise if something else may be ‘off’?
The other day I experienced mild articulation and my driver’s side end link snapped. This is the second time it has happened so I’m thinking that perhaps the bushing in the KDSS arm may be shot, causing the arm to push sideways resulting in the link being angled too much.
For background, the rig has the full Icon Stage 6 suspension and their Tundra front end conversion kit.
Thanks in advance.

View attachment 3698270View attachment 3698271View attachment 3698272

It's breaking due to bending forces as a result of not enough articulation in the heim joints or its contacting the bracket. You can see the bend in the threads, which is also the weakest point as its the narrowest and the threads become stress risers.

Is the LCA bracket contacting the end link limiting articulation? Or did that happen after the break?

Hard to solve this virtually but perhaps you can get better up and down alignment between the sway bar and LCA, by mounting to the outside of the sway bar, or outside of the LCA bucket. Could also try to extend the end link by engaging less thread? Could also try a KDSS relocation bracket combined with mounting to the outside of the LCA bucket?

 

[nwfl4runner]

You need to run them outside the arm, and use safety washers, which both stop the joint from pulling out and extend the Heim angle. Try this setup:

 

[MikeyP67]

You need to run them outside the arm, and use safety washers, which both stop the joint from pulling out and extend the Heim angle. Try this setup:

View attachment 3698845

Thank you, @nwfl4runner, this is super helpful. I’ll try running on the outside of the arm. Do you have the details on the links, safety washers you are running (basically the full setup)? Those look more substantial than what I currently have. Or do you think the ones I have should work ok if I move them to the outside of the arm/sway bar?

 

[MikeyP67]

It's breaking due to bending forces as a result of not enough articulation in the heim joints or its contacting the bracket. You can see the bend in the threads, which is also the weakest point as its the narrowest and the threads become stress risers.

Is the LCA bracket contacting the end link limiting articulation? Or did that happen after the break?

Hard to solve this virtually but perhaps you can get better up and down alignment between the sway bar and LCA, by mounting to the outside of the sway bar, or outside of the LCA bucket. Could also try to extend the end link by engaging less thread? Could also try a KDSS relocation bracket combined with mounting to the outside of the LCA bucket?

Thanks, @TeCKis300. It became bent after the break. I don’t think it was making contact. I’m hoping that mounting outside the arm/sway bar will improve the situation. I don’t do any serious off roading so hopefully that will be ok.

 

[nwfl4runner]

Thank you, @nwfl4runner, this is super helpful. I’ll try running on the outside of the arm. Do you have the details on the links, safety washers you are running (basically the full setup)? Those look more substantial than what I currently have. Or do you think the ones I have should work ok if I move them to the outside of the arm/sway bar?

Here’s the safety washers I run. I use the stock Toyota bolts. I run FK and Aurora joints, and ordered these for the bottom (3067-M14x2.0-R) - for the top I can’t remember but I switched from Aurora to FK, I’ll try to find the model number!

FK makes a good joint, I think if you run them outside they will be more than strong enough - you may want to also address the bottom location as it may be binding there as well given how the tundra arms shove everything out further - I know some folks run it outside the arm single sheer, I just cut the bucket and extended

 

[MikeyP67]

Here’s the safety washers I run. I use the stock Toyota bolts. I run FK and Aurora joints, and ordered these for the bottom (3067-M14x2.0-R) - for the top I can’t remember but I switched from Aurora to FK, I’ll try to find the model number!

FK makes a good joint, I think if you run them outside they will be more than strong enough - you may want to also address the bottom location as it may be binding there as well given how the tundra arms shove everything out further - I know some folks run it outside the arm single sheer, I just cut the bucket and extended

Got it! Thanks again, this is great info. Much appreciated!

 

[MikeyP67]

You need to run them outside the arm, and use safety washers, which both stop the joint from pulling out and extend the Heim angle. Try this setup:

View attachment 3698845

You need to run them outside the arm, and use safety washers, which both stop the joint from pulling out and extend the Heim angle. Try this setup:

View attachment 3698845

@nwfl4runner, I finally received the end link and safety washers for this same set up that you have. I used a jack to align the KDSS arm so I could put the bolt and safety washers on. I tightened everything up and when I dropped the jack, the drivers side front stayed about 2.5 inches higher than the passenger side front. Would I be able to simply loosen the KDSS screws a turn or two to ‘bleed’ the system and level everything out or is it a much more involved process than that?

 

[nwfl4runner]

@nwfl4runner, I finally received the end link and safety washers for this same set up that you have. I used a jack to align the KDSS arm so I could put the bolt and safety washers on. I tightened everything up and when I dropped the jack, the drivers side front stayed about 2.5 inches higher than the passenger side front. Would I be able to simply loosen the KDSS screws a turn or two to ‘bleed’ the system and level everything out or is it a much more involved process than that?

Sorry man, don’t know! I’ve got a LX - but I believe that’s correct - just loosen the screws slightly

 

[bloc]

@nwfl4runner, I finally received the end link and safety washers for this same set up that you have. I used a jack to align the KDSS arm so I could put the bolt and safety washers on. I tightened everything up and when I dropped the jack, the drivers side front stayed about 2.5 inches higher than the passenger side front. Would I be able to simply loosen the KDSS screws a turn or two to ‘bleed’ the system and level everything out or is it a much more involved process than that?

Yea that is the next step.

Any time you work on the suspension you should go ahead and open the valves. Not more than three turns though! Then put it on level ground and close them.. 9ft-lbf.

 

[MikeyP67]

Yea that is the next step.

Any time you work on the suspension you should go ahead and open the valves. Not more than three turns though! Then put it on level ground and close them.. 9ft-l! And that will be enough to level everything out? I don’t need to drive over a piece of wood on one side, etc like the videos I’ve found?

Awesome, thank you guys! And that will be enough to level everything out? I don’t need to drive over a piece of wood on one side, etc like the videos I’ve found?

 

[bloc]

Awesome, thank you guys! And that will be enough to level everything out? I don’t need to drive over a piece of wood on one side, etc like the videos I’ve found?

If your system is healthy, yes it should level out. Some people with really bad corrosion end up with a big lean but that's the system failing. The timing of yours sounds more like too much pressure is trapped in one part of the system, and that's exactly what the balance screws are there to prevent and/or solve.

The board trick is a crutch.. and applies forces to the system that it was not designed for.

 

[MikeyP67]

Excellent, thanks again. I truly appreciate how incredible this forum is. Cheers!