Heater Hose Replacement? (1 Viewer)

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I read some time ago that LC's need the lower heater hose from block to pipe replaced at 60,000 miles.

I got some hose, clamps and took a look at this when I changed front brake pads recently. I can't get my hands to this thing to change it if I wanted to. It's not bulged and seems to be in fine condition. I left it alone. My truck has 106K miles on it.

What risk level am I taking by not replacing this three inch piece of hose? Any opinions welcome.....
 
search..."PHH"

That will keep you busy until it breaks....and it will break...and it will happen at the most inconvient time you can imagine...just ask Murphy. ;)
 
Do a search for PHH or pesky heater hose. You really should replace it while you have the chance. It is a somewhat time consuming and frustrating job, but it is doable with limited tools and skills.
Three weeks ago I did a brake job and replaced the starter contacts on my '97 80 with 103K miles and decided against tackling the PHH while I had everything out. I was running out of wrenching time and decided it could wait till another day. BIG Mistake! Although it still looked good, it started leaking last thursday morning. I was planning to go camping for the long Memorial Weekend, so I had to leave work early and spend most of friday afternoon replacing that hose.
I'm really glad it started leaking while I was still at home and not somewhere in the middle of nowhere.
 
S**T - I knew that's what you guy's were going to say.

Well at least I've got an out for a couple of weeks - ruptured tendons in my elbows from work. You should see the black, blue, green and yellow bruising - but then I'll do it. At least I have the parts and hose.

Thanks....
 
spartan said:
S**T - I knew that's what you guy's were going to say.

Well at least I've got an out for a couple of weeks - ruptured tendons in my elbows from work. You should see the black, blue, green and yellow bruising - but then I'll do it. At least I have the parts and hose.

Thanks....

Ouch...I wouldn't attempt it will ruptured tendons....maybe you wife can change it for you! :D :grinpimp:
 
Yes, it is a PITA to get to that hose, but if you remove the front left wheel and the trannie dispstick tube, it is doable. Leave the axle hanging down and jack up that corner of the frame to a comfortable height. Install a jack stand!

Lay an old blanket acrosss the brake rotor and prepare to spend some quality time swearing.

I used a piece of 5/8 inch marine fuel hose - it is much stouter than any heater hose, but also much harder to get over the nipple and pipe end.

Good luck.

John Davies
96 LX450
 
In addition to John E's advice on the dipstick tube, a dremel with cutting wheel will make short work of the cottor pin clamp, then use a utility knife to cut a slip all the way across the hose, and a pair of long channel locks to rotate and remove the clamp on the engine block side. Peel the old hose off, and now the fun part... working the new hose on. Don't forget the KY jelly!

:beer:
Rookie2
 
I'd suggest not using a razor or knife to cut the hose. If you cut all the way through, you are likely to also nick the metal pipe, and thus possibly create a leak path.

I use a straight bladed screwdriver and press (not pry) with the wide edge (not the end) against the edge of the hose to loosen it from the pipe. The blade of the screwdiver never touches the pipe. Before doing all of this I removed both bolts that fasten the verticle pipe to the engine. So I only had to remove the hose from the head while working underneath. I removed the hose from the verticle pipe standing over my workbench.
 
Rich,

Why were you standing over your work bench? Doesn't that give you neck cramps working on the bench? I actually prefer standing next to my work bench to help with leverage, etc.

DougM
 
I'm tall. With feet on floor I am standing over my work bench. For some projects a high work bench would be nice. If I got neck cramps, it happened while sitting underneath the truck. Don't expect to need to do that again for a looooooong time.
 

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