headlight help

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Joined
Jun 30, 2009
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help, this is pissing me off, the fuse on the headlight switch keeps burning out, im pretty sure there are no shorts, it will take about 3 minutes of being on and starts smoking. What size fuse should go there? any suggestions?
thanks
 
what is the ...

year and month of your fj?
 
i think they are stock, it has a newer wiring harness and setup, im running 20 amps right now, ill check for loose wires, could there be a problem with the switch?
 
it is not impossible ...

to open up the switch and clean it and reassemble it. The main issue is keeping a sharp eye for small springs and direction of parts. Try not to bend the clamp/sides to far out to get in, just enough, then you will have plenty to close the switch up.

And, no. Springs do not fly out when you open it up. Just clear a table top area and work slow.

I'd guess that a 66 may have a wiring issue, or a short out at the terminal blocks on the fenders. at least i think a 66 has those.

You might try measureing the voltage out at the headlight when they are on. this may show a drop somewhere else in the wiring.

keep at it. you will get it eventually.
 
My 66 is running 20 AMP fuse (stock), check the fuse block for shorting or outher wires contacting at the fuse block screw too long ect. or like fj hunter said terminal blocks on the frount fenders
 
Ok i am almost positive there are no shorts in this circuit, i have checked out terminal blocks they seem legit, does this look ok? should there be any extra fuses or wires going anywhere?
IMG_5638 with des.webp
 
Seems like you should have a heavier gauge wire comeing from the battery,That may be part of your problem.Your butt connectors do not look like they have a heavy enough crimp which can cause some resistance also.Run a heavier wire from the fuse box to the light junction also.Looks like a hack job so no telling whats going on there but well get it figured.
 
Last edited:
Try cleaning the fuse holder clips. A high resistance connection
can create heat at the connection and melt the fuse element.
A gun bore brush can be helpful in cleaning the clips, also squeezing
the clips together can increase the tension if they are not tight.
Disconnect the battery while working on the fuse holders.
 
Seems like you should have a heavier gauge wire comeing from the battery,That may be part of your problem.Your butt connectors do not look like they have a heavy enough crimp which can cause some resistance also.Run a heavier wire from the fuse box to the light junction also.Looks like a hack job so no telling whats going on there but well get it figured.

+ 1 ......
 
IF that is a 12ga wire it's fine. There are only three fuses currently in use on that block. If the loads shown are accurate (no other pulls on the circuits) you will be fine until you add other circuits.

However your problem is in the head light circuit not the fuse panel as a whole. Even if you are running 100 watt headlights you should not be blowing 20 amp fuses. Something else is going on. Determine what all is hooked up to that fuse. Might simply be too much. I personally would have ONLY the headlights on that fuse. You don't want some silly short in a CB to take out your headlights. ;)

As mentioned loose connections can cause issues check out the headlight connections themselves for evidence of heat indicating a loose connection or really high current draw.

Follow the leads from the fuse box to the switch then on to the dimmer switch then to the lights. The dimmer switch is another could place to look. They can get corroded easily.

Good luck and post your results!
 

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