Head gasket replacement advice

[excessive]

Oem head gasket and ARP head studs , 2 years and counting - no problems . I never did the retorque , most agree it’s not needed .

 

[baldilocks]

Oem head gasket and ARP head studs , 2 years and counting - no problems . I never did the retorque , most agree it’s not needed .

And you torqued to 80lbft??

 

[cruiserbrandon]

Oem head gasket and ARP head studs , 2 years and counting - no problems . I never did the retorque , most agree it’s not needed .

Are you forced induction or just Natural Aspiration?

 

[excessive]

Are you forced induction or just Natural Aspiration?

Bone stock engine , I did have my head Decked .01 I don’t remember what torque spec I used on the ARP studs, 80 ft lb sounds right . I have it written down somewhere . I used the opel kit, it was the closest match at the time - maybe ARP has a better kit for the 1fz now

 

[bryanb]

If you're not going to deck the block, don't run a cometic. Too risky that it won't seal.

I wouldn't be afraid to run boost with oe head gasket and bolts.

Here's some pics and tips if you decide to deck: 1FZ-FE Rebuild - Restoring my FZJ80 from an early demise

 

[TheAmerican]

+1 for opel stud kit and oem gasket. Going on 15k miles no re torque

 

[Malleus]

TTY head bolts aren't necessarily better but they can handle the stretch of heat cycles better according to the Cometic guy I talked to. Again I think he's full of it so I ordered a factory head gasket and head studs. Lots of Supra guys have done that for years and it's never been an issue even with 30 psi of boost I'll be happy with 7psi or whatever the factory ECU will allow without piggyback or stand alone ECU.

The material determines the resistance to heating cycles, not the installation method.