Head gasket and free beer
- Thread starter bdruff
- Start date
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You need a 12-point; that's the special tool.
Great job so far.
During my HG job (see sig) I ended up having to replace my head it was so far out of tolerance. If you purchased the OEM kit - titled "Grind Kit" it comes with new valve seals, etc. I would spend the little extra money to have the shop spec it out, perform valve job if applicable, replace seals, etc. as well as injectors. Peace of mind - you've come this far, take advantage of it. Based on an earlier comment of "until I put a for sale sign on it" - if you're just trying to get it sold, do what you want.
During my HG job (see sig) I ended up having to replace my head it was so far out of tolerance. If you purchased the OEM kit - titled "Grind Kit" it comes with new valve seals, etc. I would spend the little extra money to have the shop spec it out, perform valve job if applicable, replace seals, etc. as well as injectors. Peace of mind - you've come this far, take advantage of it. Based on an earlier comment of "until I put a for sale sign on it" - if you're just trying to get it sold, do what you want.
- Thread starter
- #45
Caps came out easily with a magnet. I'm takong out the head bolts now...where are the shims? Looks like there is a snap ring on top, under where the cup was. Anything else I need to remove before I loft the head off?
I think I will take the head to my buddy's shop to at least be tested before I order anything.
I called my local toyota, who have been great to me in the past, and they had two choices...one was just the hg for 140 or the full kit for 260.
Im going to get the full kit, even though a lot of the gaskets were replaced in September.
I was as careful as possible, but 5 of the 6 injector clips broke so I'll be ordering a set of those.
There are a few hoses I want to replace with oem bit that's about it. Maybe the fuel filter and belts too.
I am selling it. I listed it with the blown hg and disclosed that I used a hg sealer, the best I could find. There is a guy that posted he has 2 years and 10,000 miles with the stuff. It worked for me too, until I put a for sale sign on it.
I don't want to spend a bunch because I won't recoup that but I also want to do a good job.
- Thread starter
- #49
Here is where I am. Machine shop said $130 to hot-tank it to test it for cracks, pressure test it for valve seating, and clean it up. I don't think that's too bad for some peace of mind.
I won't order anything until I know the head is ok.
I won't order anything until I know the head is ok.
Pics are too fuzzy, where was the hg bad?
- Thread starter
- #51
Im not sure where it went bad. This is the first time I've ever seen a hg. I didn't look too closely because I didn't really know what to look for.
There was a bunch of oil in the 4th, 5th and a little on the number 6 spark plug. The 4th was drenched i oil. Not sure what that means.
I'll take better pictures if anyone is interested.
There was a bunch of oil in the 4th, 5th and a little on the number 6 spark plug. The 4th was drenched i oil. Not sure what that means.
I'll take better pictures if anyone is interested.
I'm interested. Mine blew the fire ring on #1 about 3 months and counting. You've made great progress thus far. $130 is awesome, I paid $330 for the same procedure. "Be ready in 'bout a week" a month & 9 days later I got the head back.
- Thread starter
- #54
spending the morning reading...Anything I should know before I start scraping the old gasket off the block? One thread said he had a shop vac in one hand as he scraped it. Another said he used brake cleaner and a wire brush. What should I be looking for as far as cleaning everything up. Anything to be really careful of?
The gasket will probably lift off quite easily. You want to avoid getting debris in your coolant passages, hence the shop vac. Scratches are to be avoided. There are gasket scrapers. I had good luck by carefully using fresh razor blades.
You could try a little heat from a propane torch to try to get the gasket to scrape off easier.
- Thread starter
- #58
Gasket did come out in one piece. Atill no obvious fail but the edges are all frayed.
There are several rectangular holes towards the front by the timing chain. Mine are all closed up. Its easy to unblock but its hard to keep all the pieces from falling in. I could get a shop vac....but then I have to listsn to a shop vac. Can i flush my system with hose water after the hg, run distiled through it, and then fill it with a.freez?
Or is it advised to get the shop vac?
And it this a possible cause to
the overheating?
There are several rectangular holes towards the front by the timing chain. Mine are all closed up. Its easy to unblock but its hard to keep all the pieces from falling in. I could get a shop vac....but then I have to listsn to a shop vac. Can i flush my system with hose water after the hg, run distiled through it, and then fill it with a.freez?
Or is it advised to get the shop vac?
And it this a possible cause to
- Thread starter
- #59
Sorry for all the questions in a row...working on it now. Looks like almost all those ports were clogged.
The passenger side of the block is caked in wet oil right around this spot. I don't want to miss something simple...could there be a different gasket leaking around here? That i need to change?
The passenger side of the block is caked in wet oil right around this spot. I don't want to miss something simple...could there be a different gasket leaking around here? That i need to change?
