Head gasket and free beer (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter bdruff
- Start date
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First let me say that pulling the valve cover does not compare to pulling the head. You should be nervous about this job. But I say that all with a big smile and commend you for jumping in. It is a big job, don't cut corners, take your time, be detail oriented and you will be well rewarded. You will know that motor inside and out!
If you find my thread I did on my head gasket about 2 months ago it has some info. But there are much better threads than mine. I will say that the lower intake DOES need to come off the head. The problem is that the wiring harness runs through it and it has been found that you are better off leaving the lower intake inside the engine compartment pulled to the driver side with a tie down strap. It sounds like you are having trouble with the bolt that hold the lower intake to the head near cylinder 6. I know it is tight in there but I cant remember how I got them off.
I will say that my general approach was that I removed EVERYTHING from the exhaust side first. Including the air cleaner. Then you cans sit inside there. You can lean right on the top of the motor with the valve cover in place. Work close to the bolts not all stretched out if that makes sense. Leave the valve cover on till the end so nothing gets dropped into the motor.
I would have to take a look and see those bolts that are giving you a hard time to remember how I got them. But take your time and don't strip them. I know that is not the best advice.
About the oil, yes you will need to change it, twice. When you clean the block you will probably contaminate the oil with "stuff". So I would put fresh oil in it. Then change it again 500 miles later. That is just my policy after major engine work. I do understand being on a budget if you are, but don't skimp on this job.
Best of luck, it is a big job but a rewarding one.
PS contact Beno and use OEM parts.
If you find my thread I did on my head gasket about 2 months ago it has some info. But there are much better threads than mine. I will say that the lower intake DOES need to come off the head. The problem is that the wiring harness runs through it and it has been found that you are better off leaving the lower intake inside the engine compartment pulled to the driver side with a tie down strap. It sounds like you are having trouble with the bolt that hold the lower intake to the head near cylinder 6. I know it is tight in there but I cant remember how I got them off.
I will say that my general approach was that I removed EVERYTHING from the exhaust side first. Including the air cleaner. Then you cans sit inside there. You can lean right on the top of the motor with the valve cover in place. Work close to the bolts not all stretched out if that makes sense. Leave the valve cover on till the end so nothing gets dropped into the motor.
I would have to take a look and see those bolts that are giving you a hard time to remember how I got them. But take your time and don't strip them. I know that is not the best advice.
About the oil, yes you will need to change it, twice. When you clean the block you will probably contaminate the oil with "stuff". So I would put fresh oil in it. Then change it again 500 miles later. That is just my policy after major engine work. I do understand being on a budget if you are, but don't skimp on this job.
Best of luck, it is a big job but a rewarding one.
PS contact Beno and use OEM parts.
- Thread starter
- #24
Hoping to get the head off tonight...thanks for the encouragement, doesn't seem hotrible. Just hot...and greesy....and kinda bustin my knuckles...and I'm pretty sure I won't want to get up tomorrow. But other than that, I'm having a lot of fun.
I'm definitely going into unknown territory for me but I feel pretty good.
Tomorrow I will start to clean and check everything. I'll order what I need and hopefully be on the road by next weekend.
I'm definitely going into unknown territory for me but I feel pretty good.
Tomorrow I will start to clean and check everything. I'll order what I need and hopefully be on the road by next weekend.
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Check your valve tolerances now, before you remove the cams, so you know if you'll need to plan for adjusting shims.
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
Hell yes!
Only other thing that I advocate is cutting the intake between the runners they routed the harness. I did it to mine, there's no reason not to unless you think you'll chowder the harness. If I ever have to go back in I know I'm golden!
Each cam is positioned in distinct positions to balance valve spring pressure to avoid damaging bearing surfaces or bending the cam itself. That removal sequence is so they can be removed in a level and most balanced manner. Reinstalling: same thing, but perhaps more critical. Note that the intake and exhaust cams have different rotations when you remove them; the FSM references those little dots on the back of the cam gears. (BTW, reinstalling my cams was what I did today. Use assembly lube or oil as the FSM suggests.)
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Looks pretty good in there.
PM me when you're ready. It'll make sense when you go to reinstall: there's quite a bit of spring pressure on those cam lobes as you try to lower them into position. The cams won't just plop right down nicely.
Make sure to be diligent about removing and recording the position of those shims and buckets before you remove that head. I always find myself relearning to follow the FSM to the letter. In fact, not reinstalling that front engine hoist point (seen in your last picture) when the FSM said to required me to fabricate a custom bolt...
I'm in the middle of my head job currently. I think I started around May 5, and should be finished up tomorrow. I originally thought it would take me about 2 weeks with machine shop time and working in the afternoons. I was wrong. When I got into it theres additional parts I had to order and it never goes as fast as planned.
Theres an on going theme I kept reading and seeing people saying when i was reading about other head jobs. "Take your time, don't rush it."
now that I have done mine this was great advice that i can pass along once more.
- Thread starter
- #37
Might not have time today to get dirty so I'm reading up. FSM says:
(b) Using SST, uniformly loosen and remove the 14 cylinder
head bolts, in several passes, in the sequence
shown.
SST 09011 -38121
Is this a special tool I need to undo the head bolts?
(b) Using SST, uniformly loosen and remove the 14 cylinder
head bolts, in several passes, in the sequence
shown.
SST 09011 -38121
Is this a special tool I need to undo the head bolts?
- Thread starter
- #38
Also, this caught my attention. The FSM says to remove the head and then take out the valves. If I'm not having the head machined, do I need to take the valves out? I'd like to check it for spec and only have it machined if I have to.
I'm reading right now so I may answer my own questions... but anyone can feel free to chime in.
You're going to want to have the head surfaced in any case, but the valves won't need to come out. Just slapping a new gasket down isn't advisable, but others may chime in. Take it to the machine shop with the valves in. But above the valves those 24 round metal shims sit atop little inverted buckets. You don't want to get them mixed up and they will fall out when you rotate the head. Grab a magnet and see what I mean. They'll come right out without the cams holding them in.
09011-38121 - 12 mm Socket Wrench for 12 Pointed Head
http://www.toyota-tech.eu/SST/2003/Recommended_tools_and_checkers.pdf
