HDJ81 concern - BEB / Oil quantity

[podiev]

Hello. Im' new to the LC / 4x4 world. I have a 1990 VX Limited HDJ81 imported from Japan. It was a converted RHD to LHD. New LHD dashboard meters shows 118K (don't know if this is true or how many actual kilometers the rig has traveled while in Japan). My family had this import since 2004 and so far no engine/mechanicl problems except A/C and usual wear and tear.

I read about this BEB problem on the 1HDT-T among various LC forums on the Net. Am I'm having mixed views about this. Although I have not hear the famous "ticking sound" that serves as the symptom of this BEB (based on the Internet posting). But I'm no mechanic /nor LC savvy as well to differentiate engine sounds.

My concerns:
- does this BEB problem apply to all 1HD-T motors? My rig has a prod date of October 1990. When did Toyota start using the BEB parts that turned out problematic later?
- should I be worried? Should I go already to an experienced LC mechanic to have the BEBs replaced? I would like to keep this LC running for about 5-7 more years, 10 if possible.
- would signs of BEB failure be visible in the oil that comes out during oil changes? Or the only way to check is to drop the oil pan and physically check the bearing?

Based on wussypup's posting: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=97003&highlight=1HD-T
the effort to just drop the oil pan seems significant. Might as well change the bearings while at it (even if they don't see signs of the BEB failure).

- how much are the bearings from ACL?

Also, am planning on doing the next oil change myself. I have bought the filter, new drain plug (just in case), and dino oil. After draining old oil and replacing the filter, do I just drop in exactly 10L of new oil? Or do I drop in only 9.5-9.8 liters and do some form of measurement on the oil dip stick that I have to do?

Thanks and hope you guys can help.

 

[Martin White]

On the BEB issue alone: others with more tech experience than I will chime in, but the BEB's should be replaced for sure (although there are SOME who say it's not necessary). If they go you have a massive repair bill (about 6 grand or more). I also have a 1990 VX Ltd and when the BEB's were done, they were definitely not looking good. I read a whole lot about this issue prior to doing this, but people like Wayne change them all now, and for good reason. It's just not worth the risk of huge cost for a relatively minor cost to do the BEB's. That was my logic in getting this job done. (Having read this forum for some time now, I'd say that "replace them" is a consensus viewpoint, but it's not unanimous. )

 

[lshobie]

Replace them, cheap preventive maintenance. It is the first on my list to do when our truck arrives.

regards,

 

[dieseldan]

BaaaaaAAaa - beb's - baaaad -

 

[crushers]

$650 vs $6000...
hummm tough desicion...

 

[mac]

If your doubting, I have some photos for you...

 

[Tapage]

Interesting in this casi to know if this rig from 90 have the BEB's work done ..

 

[Toby W]

Hi Podiev,

If your HDJ81 is freshly imported from Japan your BEBs may be ok.

All 1HD-Ts with original Toyota bearings are potentially affected by this issue (and it appears maybe the 1HD-FT and FTEs as well) but...

I've been looking in to this, and it appears that the BEB problems stem largely from use of the wrong oil formulation and/or grade.

Craig Vincent from New Zealand (are you on here Craig?) has provided some excellent information on this topic:

Most Japanese domestic market oils have the correct high calcium, no magnesium formulation giving excellent thermal stability, so don't lead to the big end bearing sub-surface fatigue failure you've been reading about. As I understand it the problem revolves around the thermal instability of oils using magnesium based detergent packages, in combination with the relatively high oil temperatures that many Japanese diesel engines, including the 1HD-T, are designed to run. A lot of oils available in North America are high magnesium, low calcium which is fine for American style diesels but not for the 1HD-T. The calcium also has a bearing pacifying effect, reducing the chemical attck on the bearing material from the oil.

Oils of the wrong grade may also contribute to the problem; the 1HD-T is designed to run a 10w30 at pretty much all ambient temperatures. This is a relatively thin oil by North American standards - but is needed to provide sufficient oil flow to cool the bearings. Up to about a 15w40 grade seems to be ok, but thicker oils flow slower so are less effective at cooling the bearings.

So: Make sure if the oil was changed after the car arrived in North America that a high calcium content (3000ppm or more) oil was used, preferably a 10w30 or 5w30. If it wasn't, change it out immediately.

Toyota OEM oil filters are a good plan for this engine as well; the filter has a built in bypass filter, and most aftermarket filters for the 1HD-T either leave this out altogether or use an inferior filter medium.

I would stress that the only way to be sure about the condition of your bearings is to pull the pan and check them. Getting the pan off is the hard part of this job.

Best of luck,

 

[podiev]

all - thanks for the info.
am based here in the philippines - not north america.
We got the 90HDJ81 from an imported here sometime 2004. Not sure though as to when the LC exactly arrived from Japan to the imported. Only had about 20kms since 2004. been asking around as well with the locals here that had JDM imports as well for their feedback/experience.

 

[Toby W]

Hi Podiev,

Apologies; I read your message quickly and didn't spot that you were in the Philippines or that you'd had the truck a while.

In that case I would definitely advise checking your bearings. Don't wait for symptoms - it will probably be too late!

Best of luck,

 

[crushers]

just change them out. the BEB cost a whole $65 and by the time you have that damn pan off you are 60% done.

as for oil, here in Canada the only oil that matches the Japanese spec oil is Amsoil.

 

[Tapage]

Talking about sympomps .. someone have a list . ?

Interting reading about oils .. just wondering if those numbers on oils apliet in 30ºC to 32ºC weather countries .. as Panamá ?

 

[Greg_B]

I've been looking in to this, and it appears that the BEB problems stem largely from use of the wrong oil formulation and/or grade.

I am no oil expert, nor a mechanic, however I have had the pleasure of being involved in with the JDM scene in Canada for a number of years now. There are a few consistant things I have seen and learned.

Oil being the culprit was the main thought a number of years ago. From what little I knew, it made sense and I agreed. I do not now.

I am now leaning to the OEM bearing composition being the main issue. High calcium based oils from Japan may have been extending the life of the OEM bearings in Japan. However; there are simply too many that show flaking and have lived thier life on JDM spec oils. I know of some engines that have gone boom shortly are arriving. Again; There are simply too many JDM 1HD-T imports (and some 1HZ imports) that have shown flaking for this to be anything but composition imo. Talk to anyone who takes the pans off these JDM's on a regular basis. And, they have not run on North American spec oil for any time at all.

G&S made the choice a number of years ago to investigate and spent the time changing out connecting rod bearings. We started passing on what our experience was. Those that listened and started thier own replacement policy started finding the same thing. This showed us our course of action was justified, and we will continue to pull the pan on ALL 1HZ/HD-T/HD-FT engines, replacing the bearings with ACL's.

As others have said...it's cheap insurance. Just do them.

hth's

gb