HDJ81, 1HD-T power drain/dead battery (1 Viewer)

[signboy]

So we bought our '91 RHD VX a few months ago in Prince George, and almost immediately had power problems. The voltmeter will slowly drop while we're driving, then the batteries won't have enough juice to start, we just get that horrible clacking noise from the starter. We bought a booster pack which got daily use, until we finally thought we had the problem narrowed down to the 12/24V series/parallel switch, which we replaced with a kenworth part, and all seemed good.
Today, it did it again. No idea why, I can't think of anything that has changed. Last time, it boiled down to voltmeter readings across ...well, across everything.
The charge off the alternator is 15V, but it's just not charging the right side battery. We haven't replaced the battery because the previous owner had just done that (hmm...), and it load tested fine. The problem was narrowed down by doing a terminal check on the series/parallel switch, and the readings were not what the repair manual said they should be.
Now, I've read that it's kinda rare for these switches to die, so I'm guessing I read something wrong while testing the switch, as that seems more likely than that we just had 2 of them crap out on us.

Any ideas as to what else may be the cause of this? I'm at the end of my rope, and about to pull the plug on this damn thing.

 

[signboy]

ok, I did some more snoodging around with the multimeter, and it looks like there is a 6V difference between the 2 terminals on the series/parallel switch that go to the +'s on the batteries. If it's not the switch, I'm fed up with looking for what it could be, and if it IS the switch, I'm fed up with buying switches.

This Cruiser will get a 12V starter motor.

As soon as My weak google-Fu can produce a part number. Any help?

 

[asutherland]

Where are you located man?

 

[signboy]

I'm in Fort St. John, B.C., Canada.
Also, the closest thing I can find is a Denso 280-117 (sorry, I can't seem to link to the actual part page on the denso website, it's just a popup), but it only states it will fit a 3FE. Searching for 1HD-T seems to get me nothing.

 

[asutherland]

Ahh. Too bad... I know a very knowledgeable elect. engineer here on the island that would be able to fix it for you no matter what the issue is.

In that case, call up Radd Cruisers in Duncan, BC Customization and Restoration Professionals - Services For Restoring 4x4s - RADD Cruisers, Duncan BC and see if John or Rob can find you one.

If you decide to go 100% 12V, make sure to check a bunch of threads on this forum for the benefits/drawbacks of doing so.

 

[signboy]

Thanks for the link! We have a really good mechanic here at Northern Auto Electric, but he wants me to get him the denso part number so he can cross-reference and look for a deal.
As far as all the info here, I have been looking around for like 2 days, and found a whole bunch. I haven't found anything saying my cruiser won't start in the cold with 12V. I get why it's better in theory, but haven't found anyone that has switched and regretted it. Not to mention, we WILL be getting a block heater put in, as it gets at least -40 every winter here.

 

[signboy]

Heh, also, the 12/12V debate and switchover seems like a bit of a hot topic on all cruiser forums. When I finally do find this sucker, I'll be posting it on the definitive part # thread.

 

[asutherland]

Thanks man. Little things like that help people out!

I also went for a block heater as we go into the interior during the winter and it does get cold there. Here on the island people think -10C is cold

Personally IMO I'd try to fix it, leaving it the way Mr. T made it to begin with. Seem to have less issues when you don't mod stuff!

 

[signboy]

if you put a block heater in, then I have a question: which one, and did you have to bend the elements to make it fit? The shop here can't find any info on the block heater's size, and they want to pull the plug, measure the threads, then order the right part. Which means our daily driver is out of commission the whole time.

 

[asutherland]

if you put a block heater in, then I have a question: which one, and did you have to bend the elements to make it fit? The shop here can't find any info on the block heater's size, and they want to pull the plug, measure the threads, then order the right part. Which means our daily driver is out of commission the whole time.

I actually went with a recirculating one, kind of like this:

 

[asutherland]

I found this: https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tec...3562-pooched-my-series-parallel-solenoid.html

I got mine from John at Radd Cruisers.
Sheldon or Greg has a few at G&S Cruisers as well.
Pretty easy to install

 

[SHREDwagon]

If you want one of these for the price of shipping, PM me. I'll be pulling mine in 2 weeks and I'd hate to toss it in the trash. It's like, new...

Don't forget to give the heater core a good flush whatever you install!

 

[asutherland]

If you want one of these for the price of shipping, PM me. I'll be pulling mine in 2 weeks and I'd hate to toss it in the trash. It's like, new...

The solenoid or the heater?

 

[SHREDwagon]

Zerostart heater...

 

[asutherland]

Zerostart heater...

Ahh, cool. May I ask why you are getting rid of it?

 

[hybric4x4diesel]

hi, pls check the fuses in the driver side fuse box.

 

[signboy]

we have been through the fuses, and just like the last time it did this, they are fine. that would have been such a nice fix, but I guess you gotta ask, right?

Here's a potential trouble spot, though: It occurred to us that it didn't start doing this until AFTER we put the stereo in. The powered antenna is broken off, and I accidentally hit the button to raise it, BAM. No charge, and too dead to start. So we pulled the stereo, but it didn't fix anything. That was when we thought we had it fixed with a new series/parallel solenoid.

Since it seemed to be fixed, we put the stereo back in, minus the antenna plug Last week, the wife started listening to radio again (but she knows much better than to touch the antenna button which isn't hooked up anyway), and that seems to coincide with our returning problems. Could there be something jinky with the factory stereo plugs? Power draw?

 

[SHREDwagon]

Ahh, cool. May I ask why you are getting rid of it?

The Zerostart units work through convection, but mount up high on the firewall..... Not ideal. The lower rad hose heaters work better in extreme cold because of this, so I've heard.

Installing an Espar D5 as soon as I get the aux battery in the back.

 

[SHREDwagon]

Signboy - Find someone who's good with a multi-meter before ya kill your batteries....

 

[asutherland]

Try removing the stereo for a couple weeks man and see if that fixes things up!

And to what SHREADwagon said... agreed!